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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
5vz flywheels have a deeper dish offset area in the center than the four cylinder flywheels to accommodate the larger springs in the 5vz disk. The only point I was trying to make is ACT also made a heavy duty disk for the 5vz. They never made a heavy duty four cylinder disk. If you can find the ACT clutch kit made for the 5vz it includes everything below.

http://www.advancedclutch.com/
from their web page back in 2004:

TA2-HDOO
SKU: 83705500755

This kit includes these components:
T-020 - Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
TYSD136 - Street Disc
RB216 - Release Bearing
PB1004 - Pilot Bearing
AT11 - Alignment Tool
Torque Capacity: 408 ft/lbs.
 

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Ah, I understand now, thank you for the clarification.

The Centerforce clutch, I think, makes the most sense for my top power goals on this motor. I think anything more than 400 hp on the stock internals will pop the 5vz.

My truck dynoed 236 hp and 267 ft/lbs with the Supercharger. The turbo setup is clearly surpassing the power/torque I had with the SC. By my calculations, at 391 hp, it should also be making 442 ft/lbs. So, the Centerforce clutch seems to support the max power/torque figures I'm trying to achieve while retaining street ability.

I've never built an engine and I'm not inspired enough by ICE's to want to touch the bottom end of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I think my 3rz's clutch is near the end of its life. It sometimes slips just a little under high load then grabs. It wasn't slipping at all a few months ago. SPEC seems to make the highest capacity single disk clutches for the 3rz. I am trying to avoid 6 puck, unsprung, and twin disk clutches. I think this clutch will allow me to beat on it harder without fear of it breaking than my previous clutch that was surprising it survived as long as it did and had no catastrophic failures.

ST703F - SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch Kit 495lb/ft capacity - $539.10
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kits are primarily intended for street use, drag racing, pulling, and autocrossing. As the flagship stage for a high-powered street or race car that requires a manageable and friendly engagement, Stage 3+ clutch kits feature carbon-graphite full-faced material that offers unparalleled life, friction co-efficient, and drivability in one package. Their hubs are double-sprung with spring cover reliefs for flexibility and heat-treated components for strength and durability.

Additional features of SPEC Stage 3+ clutch kits:

* High-clamp pressure plate
* Carbon semi-metallic friction material
* High-torque sprung hub and disc assembly
* Bearing and tool kit included
* Also great for road racing, rally, and drifting

Thank you garetcurry for the link to the SPEC clutch specs: http://specclutch.com/cars/Toyota/Tacoma/2001/Single
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I just bought a replacement clutch the SPEC ST703F - SPEC Stage 3+ Clutch Kit 495lb/ft capacity - $539.10 shipped to my door from the SPEC website. Thanks again garetcurry for the link. This may be the only street driveable clutch available that can hold 495lb/ft without going to a crazy expensive twin disc. My old clutch is getting worse it holds most of the time but sometimes it just gives up and slips. I think the disc is getting too thin causing occasional slippage when I'm hammering it.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
It's paired with an LCE Lightweight Flywheel. Feels pretty close to stock and is pretty darn drive-able after the break-in period.
[/QUOTE]
Great! That's what I was hoping to hear.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
My mechanic installed the SPEC 3+ clutch this week. After 5 years of the super high clamping force ACT pressure plate with a stock disk this SPEC clutch is so much easier to daily drive.The pedal is so easy to push it's not much different than what I remember the stock pedal feeling like. It is has a whole lot more grab though because the disk is full face bronze. The grabby nature of the full face bronze disk is in my opinion a good trade off for a light clutch pedal. That ACT was work to drive and I avoided traffic jambs because of it. This SPEC clutch can be slipped a little and it doesn't complain unless you are slipping it a lot like a newb. I am at 100 miles of the 500 mile recommended break in period so I can't send it yet but I'll post some videos when break in is over and I can finally put more power down.
 

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Pedal feel stiffens a little bit as the break-in period continues, but yeah, ends up being close to a stock feel. I ended up replacing my clutch master and slave -- the master was full of gunk. It was really nice after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
The clutch is broken in. This morning it was 30 degrees F. The tires were so cold it was easy to spin them in 3rd. I did some 3rd gear rolling burnouts on the way to work to warm up the tires. I shifted it into 4wd to try to do a datalog run in 3rd. It all went well until 5k rpm. I don't know if there was a small bump in the road or if it was just cold tires but it spun the tires in 4wd in 3rd gear which was the first time that has ever happened. It wasn't the clutch slipping. This clutch holds so much better than my old clutch. I'm trying not to put too much torque to it but so far it has held everything I've thrown at it. I may need to wait for warmer weather to get more traction.
 

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The clutch is broken in. This morning it was 30 degrees F. The tires were so cold it was easy to spin them in 3rd. I did some 3rd gear rolling burnouts on the way to work to warm up the tires. I shifted it into 4wd to try to do a datalog run in 3rd. It all went well until 5k rpm. I don't know if there was a small bump in the road or if it was just cold tires but it spun the tires in 4wd in 3rd gear which was the first time that has ever happened. It wasn't the clutch slipping. This clutch holds so much better than my old clutch. I'm trying not to put too much torque to it but so far it has held everything I've thrown at it. I may need to wait for warmer weather to get more traction.
Wait, you do pulls in 4WD? Or do you have the multi-mode transfer case that has push button AWD?

I've never done a WOT pull in 4WD, didn't want to stress the driveshafts since that's all stock. I also have an LSD in it though.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Yes I do my tuning pulls, drag racing, and a lot of street driving in 4wd or there would be no traction. I have a Kazuma LSD in the rear axle and I added a rear sway bar to help with traction. The stock driveshafts can handle it just fine. When it rains or snows I shift in and out of 4wd as needed while driving. I've been doing this for around 100,000 miles and I've never needed to replace driveshafts or front cv axles. Launch your truck hard and leave it in 4wd if you want more traction while driving it's a Toyota it can take it! A lot of the time all four tires are spinning anyway so it wouldn't really matter if it was awd or 4wd.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
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