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Discussion Starter #1
Yesterday coming home from work I floored it going up hill on an on ramp to merge onto the highway. It was at 10lbs boost in third gear and everything was fine until 4000rpm. I believe the clutch slipped a little. I think the clutch slipping put too much side force on the front input shaft bearing. The over-stressed input bearing may have let the input shaft move out of alignment resulting in a chipped a tooth on 3rd gear. Third gear now clicks as I drive! If I give it a lot of power in any gear the input shaft bearing starts whining.

The good news is could still drive it if I went easy.

I bought a 2014 2TR-FE bellhousing off ebay this morning for $170 shipped.

I then drove the truck to pick up a stronger transmission today. I used car-part.com to find a pre-1995 3VZ-FE 3.0 liter V6 R150F transmission with the short 6.5" input shaft $375 72,000 miles on it $20 core charge. When I got to the junk yard they didn't want to take the time to separate the transfer case so I got that free!

With the 2TR bellhousing I should now be able to put the much stronger R150F in place of my stock W59 transmission. If I sell the extra transfer case, two extra bellhousings, and scrap the W59 the cost might not be too bad!



Now I'm shopping for a clutch. I did a little bit of shopping around and Competition Clutch stage 2, 3, & 4 seem to be used by many on here. I was thinking I could probably get away with the stage 3. This is my daily driver so I don't want a 6 puck disk. I also don't want a 2100 lb pressure plate if I can avoid it. The stage 3 has a 1600 lb pressure plate and a streetable disc. This is the only opinion I have heard about the stage 3:

I am running a stage 3 clutch, far less grabby than the stage 4 IMO, and it has held everything I have thrown at it so far (up to 20psi)..
Anybody else running a stage 3? Will it hold 327 wheel torque?
 

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Do you have to do any other modifications to make this transmission bolt up or can you just swap bellhousings? I have two r-150's from my 4runner left over so this would be a good swap. I have a stage 5 clutch, 6 puck sprung i bought off of a member here, the clutch is extremely streetable, hardly different from stock. I have probably 6k miles on it and i would never go back to a different clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
If the R150F is a pre-1995 that came with the 3.0 you just swap in a 2TR-FE bellhousing. <---NOTE: This is wrong! A 96 or newer is needed. -Kurt

If it's the newer R150F that came with the 3.4 the input shaft is a little longer so a bellhousing spacer is needed. I also read a special throwout bearing may be needed for the newer 3.4 transmission but I don't really know. <---NOTE: This is wrong! No spacer or special throwout bearing needed. -Kurt

more info here: <---EDIT: This info if for the Marlin bellhousing that is now discontinued.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/682430-3rz-r151-single-twin-stick-2.html
 

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Discussion Starter #4
URD lists the torque limit of the Competition Clutch Stage 3 to be 375 rear wheel torque on their website. That's the only place I found the torque limit listed anywhere.

http://urdusa.com/store/Clutch-and-Flywheels-Clutches-by-Competition-Clutch/c178_183/p1260519016/Competition-Clutch,-Stage-III,-2.7L-I4-3RZ-FE-with-5-Speed/product_info.html

I was also looking at SPEC clutches their stage 2+ ST703H model is listed to hold 401 flywheel torque which is about what I'm making. Anybody use this clutch or anything else from SPEC?

Are there any other clutches I should be considering?
 

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Kurt,


what you are doing with your swap is what I intended to do for my build also. I finally may start by blowing the W59 but if my memory serves me well, it's the Tacoma post '96 R150F that needs to be used to be direct swap.


The Marlin Crawler adapter that is now discontinued was direct fit for pre 95 R150 and R151 and the Toyota 2TR is direct fit for 96+.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If the R150F is a pre-1995 that came with the 3.0 you just swap in a 2TR-FE bellhousing.

If it's the newer R150F that came with the 3.4 the input shaft is a little longer so a bellhousing spacer is needed. I also read a special throwout bearing may be needed for the newer 3.4 transmission but I don't really know.

more info here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/682430-3rz-r151-single-twin-stick-2.html
The R150F transfer case I got with the 3.0 transmission is passenger side front output. My original W59 was driver side front output. I just found out my W59 transmission had a 26 spline output and the R150F has a 23. I need to sell both my W59 transfer case and 3.0 R150F transfer case and buy a 3.4 R150F transfer case that is driver side front output and 23 spline. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kurt,


what you are doing with your swap is what I intended to do for my build also. I finally may start by blowing the W59 but if my memory serves me well, it's the Tacoma post '96 R150F that needs to be used to be direct swap.


The Marlin Crawler adapter that is now discontinued was direct fit for pre 95 R150 and R151 and the Toyota 2TR is direct fit for 96+.
Thanks for the info! There is so much confusing info regarding this conversion. I read so much saying it was the other way around. Now I have read this build:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/61636-cobs-4runner-timeline-pic-heavy-44.html

On page 44 it looks like he is using a 5vz R150F. I guess it's back to the junk yards to find the right trans!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Whew, I got the trans returned on the last day they accepted returns. So now I am searching for the more costly and less available 5vz R150F. The lowest mileage one I saw was 128,000 miles for $495. Most are near or over 200k for about the same price lol. I found a 5vz transfer case for $150 but haven't bought it yet in case a junkyard is selling a matched pair for a deal. Anyone have a 5vz trans and transfer case they want to sell for $650 shipped to 45154?
 

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You may prefer to find a 96-98 tranfer case because they were available as full manual depending of the options. Maybe some 99 also. After that they were electric actuated.


It's not a issue if it's what you want but from my point of view the lesser electric/electronic stuff the better.




I'd like if you could keep us posted about the slave cylinder, starter, flywheel etc combination...
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
You may prefer to find a 96-98 tranfer case because they were available as full manual depending of the options. Maybe some 99 also. After that they were electric actuated.

It's not a issue if it's what you want but from my point of view the lesser electric/electronic stuff the better.

I'd like if you could keep us posted about the slave cylinder, starter, flywheel etc combination...
What do you mean when you say "electric actuated"? Is there no manual shift knob on the newer transfer cases?

I'll definitely keep you posted about the slave cylinder, starter, flywheel etc combination.
 

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What do you mean when you say "electric actuated"? Is there no manual shift knob on the newer transfer cases?

I'll definitely keep you posted about the slave cylinder, starter, flywheel etc combination.
Yep some have electric buttons on them. You want to get one that is full-manual.
96-98 4runners have the manual case i believe. Don't know what tacoma's have them.

Have you searched on www.car-part.com ?
 

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Yep some have electric buttons on them. You want to get one that is full-manual.
96-98 4runners have the manual case i believe. Don't know what tacoma's have them.

Have you searched on www.car-part.com ?

Same for Tacoma 95.5-98 were normally fully manual (stick shifter). 99+ if I'm not mistaken have a 4WD button on the side. The lever itself only select high, neutral and low range.



I'm pretty sure there are some difference between years depending on the truck option, but ask for the seller to confirm it or to send you a picture of the shifter assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Would the stock pressure plate and clutch for the 5vz hold up to 400 flywheel torque? Anybody putting that much torque through a stock 5vz clutch?

The OEM Aisin CTX-107 pressure plate for the 5vz supposedly has greater clamping force than the OEM Aisin CTX-106 pressure plate for the 3rz and is interchangeable.

According to Marlin Crawler:
"3RZ-FE and 5VZ-FE pressure plates are interchangeable, however the factory 3.4l clutch disk will not fit onto the 3RZ flywheel. To solve this problem, aftermarket clutch manufactures have decided to become "CHEAP" by just producing one clutch disk that will fit both the 2.7 and the 3.4 flywheel, based on the 2.7l disk dimensions which are a bit smaller than the 3.4."

So it sounds like I would need to use a stock disk designed to fit a 3rz. The stock 3rz disk is a DTX-137(or DTX-137L). If I could stick with stock components drivability and cost should be better. A CTX-107 is $108 and a DTX-137L is $78 on Amazon. So $186 is pretty cheap if it will hold the power.

sources: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/624288-clutch-do-i-need-use.html

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/clutch-disk-replacement-272839/

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-2nd-generation-2005-2015/405006-06-tacoma-clutch.html
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I picked up a $150+$50 core transfer case today. It is from a 97 3.4 4runner 5 speed. It has the "J" shift pattern I put vice grips on the shift lever nub to verify it. They already sold the transmission it was mated to but I found one from a 98 3.4 4runner $400+$35 core with 131k miles. Only problem is its 100 miles away, still in the truck, and no weekend hours. It will be a few days until I can get it. I'll ask if they will throw in the crossmember. It has a transfer case attached but they want $300+$35 core for it so I bought the other one. I won't be returning any cores so they are a factor in the price. Please tell me if you can think of a reason this transfer case won't work.
 

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For what I know all the R150F were the same between 95.5-04 with no difference between 4runner and Tacomas. The difference was in the transfer case models that was attached to it as we spoke in previous posts.


R150F was also used in other medium sized trucks along the years. Largely unsed in Jeep, since the beginning of the '90 the AX-15 transmission is basically the same Aisin transmission with a different bell and minor ratio change. Engine was the 4.0L. I know the swap exist to fit it behing the Grand Cherokee with 5.2L but even if it's a more torquey engine... we are not in the 400h range...


From the top of my head, Honda Passeport, Isuzu trooper and probably other were using that same trans also.


I have no doubt about the R150F internal strenght, my point is more that maybe any OEM clutch could be on the low side to hold all these ponies.


Maybe a fast search with people experience who have 5VZ supercharged could help you to know how strong it is and hos it will hold.


On my side my plan was to use a stage 1 clutch... but my power expectation never been as much you are planning right now.
 

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Would the stock pressure plate and clutch for the 5vz hold up to 400 flywheel torque? Anybody putting that much torque through a stock 5vz clutch?

The OEM Aisin CTX-107 pressure plate for the 5vz supposedly has greater clamping force than the OEM Aisin CTX-106 pressure plate for the 3rz and is interchangeable.

According to Marlin Crawler:
"3RZ-FE and 5VZ-FE pressure plates are interchangeable, however the factory 3.4l clutch disk will not fit onto the 3RZ flywheel. To solve this problem, aftermarket clutch manufactures have decided to become "CHEAP" by just producing one clutch disk that will fit both the 2.7 and the 3.4 flywheel, based on the 2.7l disk dimensions which are a bit smaller than the 3.4."

So it sounds like I would need to use a stock disk designed to fit a 3rz. The stock 3rz disk is a DTX-137(or DTX-137L). If I could stick with stock components drivability and cost should be better. A CTX-107 is $108 and a DTX-137L is $78 on Amazon. So $186 is pretty cheap if it will hold the power.

sources: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/624288-clutch-do-i-need-use.html

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/clutch-disk-replacement-272839/

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61-2nd-generation-2005-2015/405006-06-tacoma-clutch.html
I went through two aisin clutches with just sticky tires and a welded 8.8. After going to the stage 5 clutch i have, definitely wont run anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm concerned about daily driving with a 6 puck clutch disk. I want to be able to slip it if I need to. I tow often which requires slipping the clutch in first to get going. I don't want something that will grab and stall the engine. Can you slip a 6 puck a little to get rolling or do you have to rev the engine a lot to keep it from grabbing and stalling?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I found a 98 4runner 4x4 manual trans with 93,000 miles for $350+$50 core. They are pulling it out and checking it over this week.
 
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