[kurt4726]

Thanks for the info! There is so much confusing info regarding this conversion. I read so much saying it was the other way around. Now I have read this build:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/61636-cobs-4runner-timeline-pic-heavy-44.html

On page 44 it looks like he is using a 5vz R150F. I guess it's back to the junk yards to find the right trans!

If I had read four more pages if this build thread I would have come to page 48 where he describes with great photos and a video how his mechanic removed 1" from the input shaft. I did the same thing to mine today. A spacer would have put the shifter too far back and the old R150F with the short input shaft has a 5 bolt tail housing wheras the '96 and newer R150F has a 7 bolt tail housing. There is no good way to put the driver side output tansfer case for 7 bolt housing on the pre '96 R150F with 5 bolt tail housing. I came to the conclusion that the only option for this swap is to remove 1" from the input shaft.

Photo taken when I was lining things up.

The finished product. The splines are hardened so grinding them off is necessary. I spun it on the lathe and used a small grinder to remove most of the material. I finished it with a carbide tipped lathe bit then used a file while spinning it to smooth and straighten the pilot bearing surface. It worked very well.

 

[Dick4x4]

Impressive that you did it without removing the shaft from the transmission!


You are one step closer to success!

 

[kurt4726]

I drove it last night slowly down my street! The trans shifts great and the transfer case also shifts great. The clutch is nowhere near as firm as I was expecting. It is initially very firm but half way depressed it becomes much easier. It's very easy to hold it to the floor. I'm impressed with the geometry of the ACT pressure plate to be able to clamp so hard but be so easy to depress to the floor. Engagement is just like the stock clutch very smooth not grabby.

Both driveshafts seem to have plenty of spline engagement so no need to modify driveshafts. :grin

I just have the transmission resting on the crossmember right now. I still need to either buy a the transmission mount that fits the R150 and probably need to modify it, or modify my W59 trans mount to fit. The attachment points for the transmission mount are completely different between the two transmissions.

Here is a summary of the combination of parts I used:

1. '96 or newer long input shaft R150F with driver side output transfer case. Transmission input shaft must be shortened about 1".

2. 2TR-FE bellhousing.

2. R150F clutch fork. (The W59 clutch fork does not fit the larger pivot ball used on the R150. Also R150 fork is thicker steel.)

3. 3RZ-FE throwout bearing and pilot bearing. I used a Timken brand for both.

4. ACT pressure plate designed to fit the 5VZ-FE.

5. 3RZ-FE stock clutch disk. Model# DTX-137L

6. Transmission mount modified to fit. Not yet done.

 

[kurt4726]

By some customtacos miracle one of the four bolts from the W59 trans mount fits the R150. I drove it down the street like this up to 50mph. Everything is smooth and shifts well with no vibration. I can't believe how non race clutch this race clutch is. It's like stock except slightly harder to press in initially then after half way pressed in it's like stock again down to the floor.

I think I'll buy a new from china R150 trans mount for $35 shipped off ebay and see if it fits right. Maybe 4 banger and V6 Tacoma crossmembers are the same and it may bolt right up who knows. If it doesn't fit forward to back I can slot the holes. For now until I get the R150 trans mount next week I'll be driving very easy for the 500 mile clutch break in on one bolt.

 

[kurt4726]

The gears ratios are spaced so much better for street driving on the R150 than the W59. Third gear is the most noticable difference. The ratio for 3rd seems to be evenly spaced between 2nd and 4th. The W59 had a short 1st and 2nd ratio then 3rd was a big jump.

The V6 transmission mount almost fits but not quite. The holes are 3/4" off.

With the trans mount attached to the trans it hits the crossmember 3/4" too far back.

I welded small extensions and drilled new holes.

Finished drilling ready for paint.

After painting ready to go back on with a 3/4" offset.

 

[kurt4726]

Somehow everything went right the first time and it fit perfectly! I also forgot to mention I put Redline MT-90 a few days ago into both the trans and transfer case. They are both very smooth shifting now.

 

[ZIP]

NICE WRITE-UP!:waytogo:

 

[kurt4726]

I'm at 1200 miles on the clutch and couldn't be happier. It holds all the torque I can throw at it. I did a 3rd gear clutch dump at my peak torque 4000 rpm. I was pleasantly rewarded with no complaints from the clutch just a 3rd gear tire chirp. I very slowly backed a log splitter into my in-laws back yard yesterday. That required lots of clutch slipping in low range to go slow enough. It's not grabby at all. I can slip it in low range and go as slow as I want to. It acts just like the stock clutch just a little more pedal effort.
:grin

 

[Arky]

Bump to see how you're getting along with the clutch. Pretty sure I'm either going with your setup, or the Centerforce Dual Friction.

 

[kurt4726]

I have about 5000 miles on the clutch now. It's still nice and smooth just like stock. I haven't taken the truck to the drag strip yet but have done many hard launches in 4wd on the street. It grabs and holds. I'm confident it will hold up to drag strip abuse. Like the guy from ACT said it has a 40% stronger spring than stock. The last traffic jamb I was in I found myself letting the clutch out in neutral more rather than holding the clutch in like I used to with the stock clutch.

It's supposed to be able to hold 435 flywheel torque. I don't know if Centerforce makes a clutch for the Tacoma that can match that.

 

[Arky]

I appreciate the feedback. I was leaning toward Centerforce due to the light pedal pressure, but I think I'm leaning toward the ACT pressure plate and stock Aisin disk. I don't have a commute, and I've never been in a traffic jam :smile

 

[Arky]

Ended up going with the RAM clutch.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/ram-clutches-hdx-clutch-kits/p3090824.jcwx?filterid=d2193y1998g12j1

Had it installed a couple days ago. It's a noticeably lighter pedal than stock, but a lot grabbier feeling. RAM rates it for up to 450hp. It's going to be hard to wait until breakin period is over, but can't wait to see what it does with 15lb of boost.

 

[kurt4726]

Ram makes great clutches. Good choice.

 

[Arky]

RAM clutch has been broken in for around 800 miles. I've been having a bit of fun last 50 miles now. It grips hard! The clutch pedal firmed up a bit, and now it feels EXACTLY like stock pedal. Before it broke in, it was a lighter pedal. It holds 10lb of 5vz boost no problem. It's still easy to take off, but feel "stickier". I'm going on up to 15lb and then will report again after a trip to the track.

 

[kurt4726]

I'm glad to hear it's working out! 15 psi is a big jump. It should be lots of fun. Keep us posted.

 

[garetcurry]

Hey Arky, how about that report? What part number RAM clutch are you using? Any dyno numbers? I'm fixing to get a clutch/lightweight flywheel here pretty soon. I called LCEngineering and they have no real data on any of their 5vz drive train products. I called Marlin Crawler, they mentioned Centerforce.

Kurt, I can't believe your new stock clutch disc is holding 479 wtq, holy smokes! I mean, Marlin Crawler says the stock 5vz clutch is rated to 900 ft-lb, but the proof is in the pudding. I guess the (first) weak point on the clutch system is the pressure plate.

 

[kurt4726]

The ACT T020 pressure plate is really high clamp force so that's why it can hold so much torque with the stock disk. I did a few pulls where it made 520+ torque but I felt it beginning to slip so I lowered the boost. That much torque was a bit silly anyway because in 2wd it would spin the rear tires in 3rd gear even with my new Kazuma LSD installed.

The ACT pressure plate I have is now discontinued so I'm already starting to look at alternatives to replace it when the time comes. I'd like to hear if Arky is still having good luck with his RAM clutch.

 

[garetcurry]

Yeah, I started looking on the ACT site and couldn't find the pressure plate you mentioned nor could I find one that is meant for the 5vz. I thought about calling and asking, but if it's discontinued (as you say) then I guess there's no point. I was also trying to follow Arky's link, but it's broken. The RAM parent site doesn't even list pressure plates for Toyotas.

For the 5vz, Centerforce has a kit rated for 442 ft/lbs: https://www.centerforce.com/product/dual-friction-df505019-0009?gfid=p165860-c435887
For the 5vz, SPEC has kits up to 598 ft/lbs: http://specclutch.com/cars/Toyota/Tacoma/2001/Single

(sigh) The parts for this motor are too rare. I need to buy a house so I can do a 2JZ swap. I can grab some mounts from CXRacing, boom, done.

 

[kurt4726]

There is one place that still has a ACT T020 pressure plate listed for sale: http://www.carolinaclutch.com/inventory/1432-act-performance-clutches-t020-act-p-pl-heavy-duty

I don't know if they have one in inventory or if the listing is just out of date since I don't think ACT makes them anymore.

The reason I used the stock disk is the ACT disk normally paired with this pressure plate only fits the deep dished 5vz flywheel. That ACT clutch disk made for the 5vz flywheel was an organic stock style disk but were stiffer so it could handle abuse and had a more aggressive material for better bite. I'm pretty happy my stock disk hasn't had problems with the torque but I rarely abuse it knowing it is likely near its limits.

 

[garetcurry]

Hmm... So, if I get a lightweight 5vz flywheel the ACT pressure plate might not pair well with it? Sorry, this is the first time I'm seeing "deep dished 5vz flywheel."