honestly find someone local to do it because you do not want to mess up your fenders, seen plenty of people who try doing it themselves and warp the hell out of them. So i would just research for a local around you with experience

 

Just do my 20 minute fender trim mod and get rid of that pesky 3/8" that makes a huge difference of rubbing or not rubbing. This way you won't run the risk of messing up your fenders. You'll never get 1/2" by rolling, or cutting, even though in this old thread below I said you'll get 1/2", it's more like 3/8".

Pretaco rear axle is ideally the best way to go if you want a deep wide wheel with meat. Taco's have wide axles and you have to run high offset wheels to get them to tuck. A truck with a 4" rear drop will just start to rub the tire & fender when the axle hits frame and stops it from really gouging the tire. Go beyond 4" with a C-Notch and no trim and you'll really gouge your tires.

Fender Trimming 101 thread (pics in post #26)

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128056

 

I've trimmed them. But I want to drop it more, and I was thinking I could flare it out to be safe when I do a c notch, and I actually need to chat with you about my cnotchabilty...

 

You won't get any measurable amount of flare if you try, and are almost guaranteed to mess your fenders up if you try. You can flare Ford Ranger fenders quite a bit but 1st gen Taco's don't really flare and are a real pain, not worth trying imo. (ask siebler)

 

Yeah, when you try to flare the fender wells, the extra metal needed for the flare has to come from the front and rear of the bed, and in the end, even if you were able to do it, the gap at the lower front of the bed and cab will be noticeable, and the fit at the bottom rear corner will be distorted.

I'm with Beef on this one. Either try different wheels, or swap the rear out.

 

You could also take your wheels to a reputable machinist and have a tiny bit milled off the rear of them. If I had wheels I really liked, didn't want to swap the rear, or deal with the fender area any more it may worth looking into. Just something like 5/16" or 3/8" if you think the wheel could accept it.

Seeing how I practically live with a grinder in my hand, it's easier for me to do my trim than to roll the lip. Whatever you end up doing, just be careful and go at it easy because the sheet metal on these trucks is very thin to save weight for gas mileage, so you can really mess it up if you start trying to pull on the side, and dirt can get down inbetween the flat outside area and the inside brace part and you'll start to see outward bumps from little rocks. I found this out when trying to flare siebler' for offroad. I told him to just get glass. I couldn't get it to pull out much at all, even with the front and rear of the liner undone, and I've flared a lot of Rangers in my time. You can get like 4" easy on those. You're lucky to get anything on these.

Something else I know from seeing trucks that looked good on the forum and then seeing them in person at meets is, a truck can look great on the forum, but see it up close and sometimes you'll notice some pretty bad hack work. I take pride in every truck I lower or mess with and like you Josh, try to do things as clean as possible.

 

Ya thanks, I appreciate the help. I will stick with trimming the fender and see how that does. :waytogo:

 

Dont trim too much on the bedside. There are pinch welds on the lip and it supports the sides. I think rolling it inward is a better idea.

I cut mine, it got weak and it wrinkled the bedside fenders.

 

Those braces are problematic when you get to a certain point of lowness. Getting rid of them is important if you're rubbing tire on them. Mine and YankeeTaco72 are gone, and my bedsides are firm because I have my liners attached ahead and behind the tire still, (but cut it out right above the tire)

Keeping the front & rear area of liner not only looks 100 times better imo, but will keep the bed side from moving and cracking over time. But I do know what you're getting at...

Check out this thread
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139722

 

The only way to do this is with a hammer or pipe. the fender rolling machine at r shop might be different from others but it didnt work on mine. In the gastank side,i cut the support on the inside fender well. ive noticed if you dont do that itl make your fender look like a 3 leaf clover.also be sure to unlock the keyhole because the rolling/pounding will break the plastic behind the lock cylinder. pass side is alot easier since its a solid fender. the times that i worked the fenders was right during my body work stage in my paintjob. the pull ive done on mine will definatley have to re-paint. u gotta pay to pla