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Hey guys I have 5 lug 97 tacoma with a manual transmission. I’m looking to add more power just to make the drives to work more fun lol. The truck does have 250k miles on it but theres nothing wrong with the truck. I plan to change the valve cover seal, and oil pan seal and rear main seal. Also plan to change out the headgaskets to a cometic .040, and adding stronger headstuds. Does the motor need to pulled to change rods and pistons? Will the motor need to be balanced with forged rods and pistons? This truck will be a daily fun truck that will see some track days in the future for fun. Seen a lot of older posts saying go with KO racing rather than build your own, is that still a good idea? Seems like you could build a kit cheaper based on youtube videos, but then you won’t have any customer support lol. Plan on doing low boost with no tune until I figure out how to use the aem fic then I was thinking 15 psi. My end goal would be 300-350 whp. Pink top injectors enough for 15 psi or do I need something different? I plan to keep all the egr stuff.
 

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If you’re going to go as far as pistons and rods you may as well pull the engine. It can be done still in the engine bay, but it’s so much easier pulled and on an engine stand so you can flip it over to do the rod bearings. With the amount of miles you may as well do crank bearing while you’re at it. Pretty much everything is easier to do to it when out, especially the rear main seal. Again, may as well do the front main, water pump, and oil pump, too. Proper emissions delete. No balance rods on 2rz. Do a clutch at this time, too. Pink tops oughta get you to 6-8psi maybe.

You’ll need an intercooler as well as a downpipe to remaining exhaust which will likely be custom work for both piping systems. Intercooler pipes can use couplings but exhaust needs welding. If you can, or have someone who can, weld pipe on a weekend you could probably do this over a 3 day weekend if you did 12 hour days with no issues and all parts on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dont want to delete the emissions stuff. I might just skip the rods and pistons for now do the turbo and then order everything for a full rebuild. Plan to keep her forever anyway. So the motor does not have to be balanced for forged rods and pistons? Clutch I'm going to do forsure. Any suggestions for something that will hold 500 whp and torque and is daily drivable? Really dont want a 6 puck as they are extremely hard to drive. I might skip the pink tops and go aftermarket. I was actually thinking I could get it done in 1 weekend as well. I do have a welded and have welded a couple times before so I most likely will do it myself with some exhaust pieces from summit.
 

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Is your goal 300-350 RWHP or 500RWHP? That's a huge difference in power and stress on the engine. I'm at 300 RWHP, stock internals and original head gaskets pushing 10 PSI. The only thing that needs reworking is the valvetrain for when I put my camshafts back in (poor top end power with stock drivetrain), everything else is untouched on the engine internals. That's very different from a 500 RWHP where you are pushing 20+ PSI. The stock transmission may not be able to daily a 500RWHP build, along with the driveshaft and clutch.

I decided not to do anything drastic and just boost it and see how I liked it. Now that I'm 5 years into my build, I'm ramping up the power but enjoyed it as-is for a long time. Still haven't taken it to the 1/4 mile though... partly because I don't know how to launch this thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
350whp is my end goal. Max one day in the future will probably be 400whp if I can get it to hook. Only reason I was looking for a clutch that could hold 500whp was to make it future proof. Gamefreakgc how is the low end with the boost? Do you have any videos of your truck?

If I did a swap it would be an ls swap just because of the amount of parts available and I know so much about ls motors. Ive watched Tom on youtube from toms turbo garage swap a v8 into his car and made note of every part he used. I've seen every video about 6 times lol, but at the end of the day I just don't think i have the knowledge to do something big. That would be the dream tacoma for me though.
 

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350whp is my end goal. Max one day in the future will probably be 400whp if I can get it to hook. Only reason I was looking for a clutch that could hold 500whp was to make it future proof. Gamefreakgc how is the low end with the boost? Do you have any videos of your truck?

If I did a swap it would be an ls swap just because of the amount of parts available and I know so much about ls motors. Ive watched Tom on youtube from toms turbo garage swap a v8 into his car and made note of every part he used. I've seen every video about 6 times lol, but at the end of the day I just don't think i have the knowledge to do something big. That would be the dream tacoma for me though.
I'm supercharged, so it behaves a bit differently than a turbo. No videos though, I'm no youtuber lol. It used to be you had to choose between low-end torque and instant power with a supercharger, or high-end power and top speed with a turbo. Nowadays, turbos are very advanced and turbo lag is almost a thing of the past, there's some on production gasoline cars that produce max boost at 2000 RPM's all the way to 6000. It all just depends on your budget and the build's purpose on what size and how much boost.

I agree on engine swaps though, it's go big or go home. People were telling me to do a 2UZ swap and it would be a ton of work and motor swaps tend to lose their daily driver comforts like A/C. I enjoyed Tom's Firebolt build as well but he spend a TON of time and money on that swap.
 

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I'm at 256 whp 270 ft lbs torque and trust me it's a lot of fun on the street. A small turbo is what wakes up the 2rz, you dont have a high rpm range to wait for lag.
 

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We both have the same goals of 14-15psi. I dont think forged rods and pistons is necessary. I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine with a rebuild kit i got, it includes timing set, oil pump, all gaskets, but still need more parts and tools like new oem connecting rod bolts, main bearing cap bolts, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts. New clutch kit, harmonic balancer puller and installer. The kit didn't come with water pump gasket and rear main seal cap gasket so i ordered those. I'm just gonna use stock graphite head gasket with arp stud torqued to 75-80 ft-lbs instead of stock head bolts 29 ft-lbs+90+90 degree. I was gonna get a reman head but read that they aren't as good as original castings so i'll just do a valve job for the top end, I got new intake and exhaust valves, viton valve seals, lc pro valve springs. I think i can reuse the spring seats, retainers and keepers. Note down all shim thickness and check valve clearance for the new valves. The pink tops i ran them up to 9 psi only, I dont think they can go up to 14psi, so i got 440cc and turned up the boost to 12, i dont want to go more than that until i rebuild, will most likely set it to 14psi after rebuilding, thats my end goal with all the parts got. Check rockauto for clutch kit, the brand M-Pact sometimes have a performance kit, right now as i type this its not listed but it pops up from time to time. Right now they only have the performance friction disk. If you want it to hook, i recommend a differential locker like spartan locker, comes with a harder center pin. Its more affordable and easier to install than a limited slip. The richmond lock rite locker does not come with center pin and is a little harder to install.
 

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I had to get my 3rz head reworked because of a burnt valve seat. I ordered all pertinent parts from here and they showed up FedEx in the AM not the next day, but 2nd day. Head rebuilt at a local machine shop and I ran it 1100 miles 3 days after installing it and a clutch/plate from Amazon Prime.

If you need parts in a pinch these are your guys. May be cheap Chineseium but they’ll get to you fast AF.

Here’s their 2rz parts.
 

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@toycoma98

What turbo are you using? How’s it spool from say 2500 up to how high you rev? Just curious is maybe some junkyard diving could come up with an alternate snail. Judging what my Tacoma revs to and what I do to my VW Jetta, a k04 from an VW/Audi either engine 1.8/2.0 could possibly do 10-12psi wound out on a Tacoma. I could get 9psi at 6000rpm on the smaller k03 before I got a bigger hybrid.
 

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T3/t4 Borgwarner from paradise racing but there are no markings on it, not sure if it truly is a borgwarner, with a 2.5" exhaust outlet (turbine wheel), it spools 2800 somewhere around there. I've had it since 2007 and still using it right now. I had a garret before but with a smaller 2"ish outlet and it was spooling early around 2000 and had problems going up hills because it would spool so much that the afr get rich. It sounded cool though and was louder, sounded like a diesel.
 

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T3/t4 Borgwarner from paradise racing but there are no markings on it, not sure if it truly is a borgwarner, with a 2.5" exhaust outlet (turbine wheel), it spools 2800 somewhere around there. I've had it since 2007 and still using it right now. I had a garret before but with a smaller 2"ish outlet and it was spooling early around 2000 and had problems going up hills because it would spool so much that the afr get rich. It sounded cool though and was louder, sounded like a diesel.
OK. Did both make it towards redline?
 
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