WOW you can go the the junkyard, buy a head for 100 bucks, get it cleaned and freshened up at a cylinder head shop and still spend less than 300 total
valve job? new head?
Soooo my truck has had a really rough idle for about a month. i tried this and that after doing all my research here only to not fix the problem. it runs smooth but at idle its really rough. finally took it somewhere so they could figure out the issue.
Turns out one of my valves is burned up, as i sort of expected after pages n pages of posts i read. decent psi in three cylinders n only about 60 in one. anyways, he said he could send it off to his guy that does heads and he can replace the valve or whatever. also he said most of the time the head is cracked in this case.
long story short he quoted me 1500 if the head is good, 1900 if the head is bad. my truck is barely worth that much!
what would it take/cost to replace a valve, or worse case a new head?
anyone in san diego know whats up? otherwise ima turn it in for scrap money lol.
thanks for all the informative posts on ct, i learned a lot.
Turns out one of my valves is burned up, as i sort of expected after pages n pages of posts i read. decent psi in three cylinders n only about 60 in one. anyways, he said he could send it off to his guy that does heads and he can replace the valve or whatever. also he said most of the time the head is cracked in this case.
long story short he quoted me 1500 if the head is good, 1900 if the head is bad. my truck is barely worth that much!
what would it take/cost to replace a valve, or worse case a new head?
anyone in san diego know whats up? otherwise ima turn it in for scrap money lol.
thanks for all the informative posts on ct, i learned a lot.
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if i was to remove mine and do like you said and have it gone through somewhere. would it be obvious if it was cracked or not? rendering it useful or useless. gotta get this thing runnin ok so i can bail out lol
Speed Freak fixed my engine. I had the same problem as you but worse... here's my review:
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1726088#post1726088
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1726088#post1726088
yes, the cracks should be obvious if you know what to look for... but frankly I would just use it as a paper weight and replace the entire head with a used one that is in good condition.
a complete, used cylinder head, in good shape, should run you about $300. tack on another $100 for gaskets and fluids and you should be good to go... just be sure to inspect the head before purchase.
for $500-650 you should be able to find a complete used longblock in great shape... something to think about if you want to spend the extra $100-250 you can just swap the entire motor.
here are some pics of a cracked 2rz / 3rz cylinder head:
a complete, used cylinder head, in good shape, should run you about $300. tack on another $100 for gaskets and fluids and you should be good to go... just be sure to inspect the head before purchase.
for $500-650 you should be able to find a complete used longblock in great shape... something to think about if you want to spend the extra $100-250 you can just swap the entire motor.
here are some pics of a cracked 2rz / 3rz cylinder head:
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any links or places i can buy one at? or just look around local scrap yards? breaking it down this weekend either way so we'll see
just check Craigslist first...then junkyards
i know in houston there are machine shops that you can just drop the head off and have them repair everything, if its not cracked for like 100-150 bucks.
or the same shop will take your old head and sell you a rebuilt one for around 250-300 thats the route id go.
or the same shop will take your old head and sell you a rebuilt one for around 250-300 thats the route id go.
www.car-part.com :waytogo:
I would perform a leak down test, before you pull anything apart, in order to verify where you're losing pressure. Then if you sure it's the head I would pull it off and visually inspect it. If there are no obvious cracks you can take it to a reputable head shop and they can test it for you relatively inexpensively. If you do have a crack then do not **** with the head any more. Welding should not be performed on your head.
If the head is good and you just have a leaking valve then it should be very inexpensive to have a good head shop repair it. If you call any head shop they should give you a straight forward run down of their prices and turn around time. Remember they will charge you to disassemble the head itself. The more you do, the less it will cost you.
If the head is good and you just have a leaking valve then it should be very inexpensive to have a good head shop repair it. If you call any head shop they should give you a straight forward run down of their prices and turn around time. Remember they will charge you to disassemble the head itself. The more you do, the less it will cost you.
I have done over 20 2RZ head jobs, I have rarely seen one of these heads crack, they will only crack if you overheat it SEVERELY.
A head job with pressure check, resurface, valve adj, 3 angle valve/seat cut, is around $350ish without valves. Yes it can be done cheaper but this is the right way.
Be careful if you try to disassemble it yourself you take a chance of damaging the machined orifice the shim bucket sits in, and you will need to adjust your valves as well.
Before doing this do a leak down to see where you are losing compression, basicly during the leakdown you will hear a hiss, it will come from one of 3 places.
Exhaust : exhaust valve
Throttle body : intake valve
Valve cover : Piston rings.
Most of the time it will be the #3 exhaust valve just so you know.
As far as a used cylinder head for $300, you would still want to have a valve job, resurface, pressure check and valve adjustment, so your better off having your own head machined. You never know what your working with when something is used, you would still want to recondition it IMO, otherwise you could burn another valve and be in the same boat with less money.
A head job with pressure check, resurface, valve adj, 3 angle valve/seat cut, is around $350ish without valves. Yes it can be done cheaper but this is the right way.
Be careful if you try to disassemble it yourself you take a chance of damaging the machined orifice the shim bucket sits in, and you will need to adjust your valves as well.
Before doing this do a leak down to see where you are losing compression, basicly during the leakdown you will hear a hiss, it will come from one of 3 places.
Exhaust : exhaust valve
Throttle body : intake valve
Valve cover : Piston rings.
Most of the time it will be the #3 exhaust valve just so you know.
As far as a used cylinder head for $300, you would still want to have a valve job, resurface, pressure check and valve adjustment, so your better off having your own head machined. You never know what your working with when something is used, you would still want to recondition it IMO, otherwise you could burn another valve and be in the same boat with less money.
update:
Fixed!
Well after removing the head, sure enough a couple exhaust valves were visually worn. took it right to the head shop. turns out he ended up having to replace all the exhaust valves, and the head was not cracked. so i figured while im working on it, might as well replace some stuff hard to get too. so i got all the parts for the timing chain and started breakin it down. didnt know i had to drop the pan and to do that you gotta remove swaybars and all kind of stuff. wow, what i nightmare just for a timing chain. so i ended up replacing the timeing chain, got the head redone, fuel filter, water pump, had the injectors cleaned and tested. also replaced plugs, wires, air filter.
started first crank. runs smoother than it ever has without any shake or miss or hic up at idle unlike before. thanks for the info and ideas.
Fixed!
Well after removing the head, sure enough a couple exhaust valves were visually worn. took it right to the head shop. turns out he ended up having to replace all the exhaust valves, and the head was not cracked. so i figured while im working on it, might as well replace some stuff hard to get too. so i got all the parts for the timing chain and started breakin it down. didnt know i had to drop the pan and to do that you gotta remove swaybars and all kind of stuff. wow, what i nightmare just for a timing chain. so i ended up replacing the timeing chain, got the head redone, fuel filter, water pump, had the injectors cleaned and tested. also replaced plugs, wires, air filter.
started first crank. runs smoother than it ever has without any shake or miss or hic up at idle unlike before. thanks for the info and ideas.
Good job. My truck just hit 192,xxx miles. But idles smooth. Should i do the same? Or nevermind, why fix thats not broken right.
I removed my head before I did the turbo and had a valve job just so I know I am starting with good compression. I figured I am going to near triple the power, better make sure I can keep the boost in the cylinders from leaking out.
If I am spending a lot of money doing a turbo system, better make sure the engine is in great shape right? However I have been doing this stuff a while and dont leave things up to chance.
At 200K I would do a valve job just as preventative maintenance. But I would guess it depends on your fundage situation.
If I am spending a lot of money doing a turbo system, better make sure the engine is in great shape right? However I have been doing this stuff a while and dont leave things up to chance.
At 200K I would do a valve job just as preventative maintenance. But I would guess it depends on your fundage situation.
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