Well i guess ill start posting some pics of my 2000 4runner turbo project. Just like a lot of builds, its amazing how much time goes into doing one of these.
I'd like to start out by letting you know that ive tried a couple systems on this truck already, and i finally got fed up with not having a system that ran efficiently, and with no leaks. I started out with an STS Tacoma kit that i modified to fit under the 4runner - all i can say is what a piece of shiat - theres no way it would or could have run efficiently - with all that piping and the distance the turbo was from the motor made an extremely laggy setup - again this is my experience and others who have the sts system swear its the best thing since sliced bread - but not for me - no way.
When i couldnt stand it anymore, i ripped it all off and got an engine mounted manifold from another member here "greddy" -great guy - who took his off cause he blew his motor at 14lbs. I had this system on for a year or so, but it developed many leaks that i couldnt get leak free for a few reasons, and also the manifold ended up being cracked in 3 places - hence it was leaking like a whore on monday which led to bad performance. So i ripped all that off and tackled the task of making one myself.
Now on to my build. Since i have a spare 4runner to drive around, i parked my 2000 in my garage since it was'nt going to be used and i could take my time to get everything done right - no rushing! I used a spare motor to build everything on/mock up, and of course test fit everything in the actual engine bay. For the drivers side - i used a Doug Thorly Header. I cut their leaky flange off and tig'd on a 2" v-band flange to ensure no leakage. For the crossover pipe, i decided to use sch. 40 steel pipe - not stainless - as i am still perfecting the art of tig'ing and i was going to get it ceramic coated anyway - so it didnt matter to me - and its stout - no cracking here.
The manifold - used 1/2" steel for the flange, drilled out the exhaust ports and stud holes on my drill press, used 1.5" sch 40 round pipe to for the exhaust runners to a 2.5" sch 40 round pipe for the main log. I then cut the top of the log out, and made a funky riser where the T4 flange sits, as well as the v-band for the MVS wastegate. Also tapped a hole for a pyrometer probe. As you can see, the crossover pipe mates directly to the main log, then it all breathes out the T4 flange. I just got it ceramic coated with a titanium color tint. Thats all for now, gonna start bolting it up this weekend and working on the downpipe.
Also: The manifold isnt the prettiest pig in the pen (i know) - but hopefully function will supercede form...
One thing I would suggest is adding some kind of device to compensate for expansion like a bellows pipe section on that cross over pipe. When that heats up it will expand and something is going to give somewhere and you don't want it to start walking the heads on the block.
thx gadget - i was actually going to contact you in a couple weeks - im goinna need some help getting the mapecu2 i got from you a year ago runnin. I have the plug n play harness - but missplaced the software - dont know where it went. Thx for the suggestion too.
Dang that flange is Burl. Keep this post going especially with a dyno. And yeah F sts. Well for me at least their customer service and weasly salesman.
yea - their salesmen are just that - they know absolutly nothing about turbo systems - they kept referring me to some tech guy when i was having turbo issues.
Yes i will definately get dyno'd at a few levels, at 5, 10, and maybe 15 lbs just for ****z n giggles....
Well i got the DT header, crossover, and manifold installed. What a pain in the @$$ that was. Alas tho, after a few choice words and a couple thrown tools, i got it all in.
Now i gotta take off the valve cover so i can tap a hole for the oil return line. Im not going to the pan for this like most - no need. My turbo sits up just high enough for me to put a 45 degree bend for the drain. Waiting for my supply line to be cut down so i can get that back in. Also, as you see in the pics, i had to cut the AC line - so i need to re-route that as well. Lots o little things. Here are some pics. (camera phone)
Nice work JRD, i hope you take detailed picks and describe what issues come up as you go along. Im sure many other people will follow this thread! Good luck!!
Just to update this thread, i just got my stock injectors back from witch hunter performance to get them cleaned and tested being that this motor has 150k on it - figured i'd rather just make sure they're still good since ive got everything off anyway. I'm also using URD's port fueler for when the boost rolls on and the MAPECU2 to control it all in boost. Now im starting to re-assemble it everything. I'll post some pics once its looks like progress.
Got some more work done today. The first pic shows the turbo oil drain tube in the valve cover - 1/2" ID alum tubing. The pic shows a bad angle - but its actually about 20 degrees from vertical - perfect flow outta the turbo.
Then i got all the newly cleaned injectors and URD fuel rail adapter Tee put in and tightened down. Also new coils and wires as the others were crispy old.
Tomorrow, hopefully i can get the rest of the intake manifold and throttle body back on, and mount up the turbo so i can start making the down pipe - 3" stainless v-band with the wastegate integrated into it.
Got quite a bit done today. I got the rest of the intake and hoses all put back together. The throttle body i cleaned and replaced the IAC as it was giving me issues before and once it was off - the inside was completley gunked up.
Got the turbo mounted up, the Tial MVS wastegate installed, and the first part of the 3" downpipe on with an o2 bung for tuning. Heres a couple pics. I can see it coming together now :headbang:
Yikes. You are going to have to build a shield to protect the coils. You are going to cook the 2 coil packs next to the hot side and down pipe. Mine is a lot further away and my down pipe started to cook the coil pack next to the down pipe. Not to sure about turbo draining into the low side of the valve cover.
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