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Discussion Starter #22
Hey man, I venture out on occasion. Especially when I have good reason to:thinking:
cool cool, thanks for the help


well im stuck with no spark.
i checked the connections AGAIN just to see if i missed something....everything looks good. the only thing is that by the driver side header the wireharness going to the transmission was to close to the header so i insulated it alot and moved it away abit...
 

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Looks like you need to check some things, wonder if maybe your crank or cam position sensors may have failed, since they are responsible for sending the ecu the signals to fire the coils.

I have never seen one fail but just maybe.

It isnt the coils, they wont all die at once. Fuel is fine. I am thinking it is a signal issue with a sensor, but a piggyback can complicate the diagnostic process in a big way.

I would eliminate the piggy as a posibility, the stock stuff is pretty tough, maybe remove the piggy if you can.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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... the only thing is that by the driver side header the wireharness going to the transmission was to close to the header so i insulated it alot and moved it away abit...
Were there any signs of damage to the wiring?

A truly screwed up speed signal might be enough to force the ECM to shut down the engine. Depending on the signals it's getting, the ECM can either (a) go into 'limp mode' or (b) completely shut off the engine.
 

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For the record also battery and alternator have been tested too right? Doesn't sound like that is the issue but I like to rule all the easy things out before getting balls deep.. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Were there any signs of damage to the wiring?

A truly screwed up speed signal might be enough to force the ECM to shut down the engine. Depending on the signals it's getting, the ECM can either (a) go into 'limp mode' or (b) completely shut off the engine.
the wires are all wrapped in one big wrap. the wrapping was burned and two of the wires had a bit of damage to the insulation. the wires were not toasted all the way through though, and i just taped them all around and insualted them. i can open it up again and check again but is there a way to just test them? also, if the ecu went to limp mode wouldnt i have some kind of CEL or anything?

man i dont know how to do the multi quotes lol

voodoo, the battery is reading 12.4 on the scangauge after all the cranking ive been doing and no charging

speedfreek, when i was checking the online service manual in the ignition section the cam and crank sensors were the only other components there besides the coils so that could be one posibility...the cam sensor is easier to get to and the wire harness is right in front of the motor, could i test it some way?
 

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the wires are all wrapped in one big wrap. the wrapping was burned and two of the wires had a bit of damage to the insulation. the wires were not toasted all the way through though, and i just taped them all around and insualted them. i can open it up again and check again but is there a way to just test them? also, if the ecu went to limp mode wouldnt i have some kind of CEL or anything?

man i dont know how to do the multi quotes lol

voodoo, the battery is reading 12.4 on the scangauge after all the cranking ive been doing and no charging

speedfreek, when i was checking the online service manual in the ignition section the cam and crank sensors were the only other components there besides the coils so that could be one posibility...the cam sensor is easier to get to and the wire harness is right in front of the motor, could i test it some way?
any common issues for no spark that i should look into? searchin for it yields a bunch of threads on which sparkplug is best
Just use stock plugs you will be just fine or run the iridium equivelent if you want a larger span between changes.

You can pull the plug off the ECU and back trace the 2 wires responsible for that circuit (cam or crank sensor) if you have the ECU pinout.

Make sure it is within spec if you dont know the spec just make sure there is some resistance and not an O.L. Open lead. in that curcuit.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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It could still be some sort of wiring fault (for example - a disconnect or short).
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Have you attempted to disconnect / remove the piggyback controller? That's still a prime suspect ... :thinking:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
:clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping: GOTTTTTTTT ITTTTTT!!!!!:clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping::clapping:

IT WAS THE ****ING SPLIT SECOND...... ONE OF THE SOLDERED WIRES WAS TOUCHING METAL.... the tape that was insulating it came off....like completely offfff....and i moved it and it started right up....



thank GOD!!!! thanks guys soo much:loveeyes::loveeyes::loveeyes::loveeyes:, freakin life savers man...
now im gonna go drive the living **** out of it!!!!
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Glad you found the problem ... :applause: :waytogo:
 
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