id actually like to know the same thing. i wanna do my extended cab since my sub rattles the hell outta my truck
To Those Of You Who Deadened Your Floor and/or Ceiling...
Whats the verdict on performance?
Im planning on trying to do deaden my doors next week, mostly to help with my audio setup...but the more I think about it the more I like the idea of knocking down some noise as well (even though I dont feel the truck is that loud).
I have been reading up on people doing the floor and ceiling. Looks like a LOT of work when you see the pictures of the seats, floor, etc. tore out.
What exactly did you do?
Is it as difficult as it looks?
How time consuming?
Was it worth the effort?
Anyone do a writeup that I overlooked?
Any pics to share?
Thanks!
Im planning on trying to do deaden my doors next week, mostly to help with my audio setup...but the more I think about it the more I like the idea of knocking down some noise as well (even though I dont feel the truck is that loud).
I have been reading up on people doing the floor and ceiling. Looks like a LOT of work when you see the pictures of the seats, floor, etc. tore out.
What exactly did you do?
Is it as difficult as it looks?
How time consuming?
Was it worth the effort?
Anyone do a writeup that I overlooked?
Any pics to share?
Thanks!
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
as far as takin out the interior, it isnt as difficult as it looks, its just time consuming...remember where all the bolts came from. its easy to do just time consuming...my truck is still loud as **** but i doubt any deadener will make my truck quiet inside:lol: id did help with road noise a bit though so im happy bout that...i only did the floor, the back, and the sides. didnt do the doors or headliner
i dont want it to be less loud inside i just want my doors to stop rattling when i turn it up. i think just doing the extended cab will do the job? :shrug:
all i have done on mine so far is the doors and i was pretty impressed by the reduction in road noise, especially once you cover over the big access holes on the inside of the door, that makes a much better sound barrier for all the noise that comes up into the door through the drain holes...and you gotta love that luxury car 'thwump' when you close the door, just feels/sounds so much more solid, i look forward to doing the rest of the cab, just haven't had time to get at it and rip all my interior out yet...and yeah, pulling the interior is easy, it just takes a bit of time and patience, and once you start pulling stuff, seeing how the rest of it comes off start to reveal itself
i did my whole truck, the hardest part was the getting the head liner back in without creasing it, but sooo worth it, its nice and quiet in there. the floor wasnt fun either because it took a while to get the rear 'seat' thing out, but still definately worth it. sorry this is the only picture i have of my truck with interior out, didnt get pictures any of the doors or back or roof. but you get the idea. the rear panels look bad too as far as taking them out and putting them back in but they arent too bad at all if you just take off the seatbelt bolts first.
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I can't wait to do mine this summer! what's the difference between sound deadeners and other options like insulating?
i would like to know the same. ive seen threads about flashing and insulation working but are they really as good as the name brand sound deadner?I can't wait to do mine this summer! what's the difference between sound deadeners and other options like insulating?
There are multiple kinds of sound attenuating materials, depending on what your goal may be. For example, some folks are mainly looking to mass-load and 'deaden' interior structural noise (rattles, vibrations). Others are looking to reduce external noise (e.g., road noise). These two purposes don't necessarily lead to the same materials or installation approaches.
yea like enola said, it all depends on what you wanna do and how much money you wanna spend. we had a ton of this dynamat laying around the shop so i just did my truck, plus all i want is to make my bass hit really hard wihout rattling everything apart and it does that very well. i cant imagine it doing as much for road noise as thick foam stuff but it does help, just really expensive.
I don't really care about road noise I want my subwoofer to stop rattling my cab:lol:
then I would go with dynamat. It's expensive but awesome.I don't really care about road noise I want my subwoofer to stop rattling my cab:lol:
I have an 01 DC 4x4 Taco and I used the Rammat stuff on my back wall, all the doors and also the roof. This stuff work GREAT! i have 2 8"s in the back and when i have it cranked up it sounds solid no rattles from the back wall or the doors. The only area that dosent have any rammat is on the floor and the fire wall but i pllan on doing that whenever the funds start rolling back in, mainly to reduce the road noise.
i did my siters protege 5 in double layer raamat and a layer of insolite foam.
worked great huge difference, the car had almost no stock deading.
u could tap on the fender then the door and tell a huge difference.
worked great huge difference, the car had almost no stock deading.
u could tap on the fender then the door and tell a huge difference.
>>>What exactly did you do? spray deadener in the doors (3 cans, each door / everydoor) spray on back of door trim panels, apply dynamatt to inner door shells (just a bit). dynamatt across rear body panel under window, roll out deadener on all flooring surfaces, dynamatt xtreme across roof, expanding foam in framework of tailgate and around rear seat under cubbies, bits and pieces of dynamatt where ever a piece looked like it should go, silicon RTV on mounts for Crossovers
>>>Is it as difficult as it looks? not really. if you have the skill to take everything off, and the time to do so. yet to break anything but minor clips, or fudge anything up, but i have xtra clips (cheap)
>>>How time consuming? figure a die hard weekend, faster if you got extra hands
>>>Was it worth the effort? um....... sure. its cooler (added insulation under carpet at trans tunnel), its quieter, and my single 12" hits!!!
>>>Anyone do a writeup that I overlooked? dunno, but i could give ya some tips if you get stuck
>>>Any pics to share? the one thing i did not do, proper photos for a write up
:headbang:
>>>Is it as difficult as it looks? not really. if you have the skill to take everything off, and the time to do so. yet to break anything but minor clips, or fudge anything up, but i have xtra clips (cheap)
>>>How time consuming? figure a die hard weekend, faster if you got extra hands
>>>Was it worth the effort? um....... sure. its cooler (added insulation under carpet at trans tunnel), its quieter, and my single 12" hits!!!
>>>Anyone do a writeup that I overlooked? dunno, but i could give ya some tips if you get stuck
>>>Any pics to share? the one thing i did not do, proper photos for a write up
:headbang:
dynamat is over priced and over rated. I Did my doors with Seccond Skin Damplifier Pro, Out of all the deadeners this was the best, no failures due to heat/xtreme cold. And its cheaper than dynamat. They also have this spray that can sound deaden anything just spray it on.
Second Skin was the best i ever used.
oh ya my sounds are-
DC Lvl3 12"--Sundown Sae-1200D-- so it gets loud and no rattles of un wanted noise
Second Skin was the best i ever used.
oh ya my sounds are-
DC Lvl3 12"--Sundown Sae-1200D-- so it gets loud and no rattles of un wanted noise
Thanks all! After much reading and research I decided that RAAMmatt was the best product for my needs. Im planning on doing the doors and rear wall right off the bat, and then maybe the floor this summer when the weather gets better.
It seems the general thought is that doing the doors makes for a huge improvement in sound system and overall quietness. Im hopeful I experience the same!
It seems the general thought is that doing the doors makes for a huge improvement in sound system and overall quietness. Im hopeful I experience the same!
yea there is prob better deals out that the dynamatt, i just happened to get a smoking deal at the time
did you check out the SS damplifier its cheaper than the pro but still alot better than the RawMat.Thanks all! After much reading and research I decided that RAAMmatt was the best product for my needs. Im planning on doing the doors and rear wall right off the bat, and then maybe the floor this summer when the weather gets better.
It seems the general thought is that doing the doors makes for a huge improvement in sound system and overall quietness. Im hopeful I experience the same!
When you work on the doors, be sure to use the Rammat on the outer door metal. Do not just plaster it over the plastic liner on the interior side. Take the time to get as much dampener on the exterior steel. This is the only place that will make any difference. Carefully peel down the plastic and remove the metal panels that are screwed in place. Even remove the speakers. This way you can get your arms inside to place the dampener and reach everything. Remember, the only thing that needs to be covered is thin steel. The impact bars, etc. are solid and won't matter. You will get a nice, solid door feel as well. When guys paste the material on the interior, covering the plastic and everything, they just make a mess when you need any service and it doesn't do any sound dampening either.Thanks all! After much reading and research I decided that RAAMmatt was the best product for my needs. Im planning on doing the doors and rear wall right off the bat, and then maybe the floor this summer when the weather gets better.
It seems the general thought is that doing the doors makes for a huge improvement in sound system and overall quietness. Im hopeful I experience the same!
The rear wall is also a good start as there is no dampening on it.
I did my whole 09 interior recently and am very happy with the results. I used fatmat btw.
Good luck.
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
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