[Dirk]

Here are finally some picture of my taco, stock floored 2 3/4" with a custom floor, mandrel bent rear clip, rear end narrowed 9", beaded inner wheel wells (gotta be different). Bed is going to fabricated just from the factory bedsides (main frame is bolt and bolted to the frame at this point). The wheels are 19's (for my taco, one-off), and the 22's (for my heavy chevy, one-offs also)

 

[skip]

:jawdrop: thats gonna be one clean truck! i love the frame looks realy clean! but one question, why 19's in the front? why not 20's? a 20 22 combo would look better IMO.

 

[Dirk]

Thanks. 19's all the way around.
When i first started building the truck, I thought 19's were the max for tacos', but since I already have them, I might as well use them.(Hoops are a bitch to find by the way,centers are also) .Plus,I think they look exactly proportional to a taco, 18's a little small, 20's a little big, imo.
The 22's are for my chevy silverado.

 

[twoarezee]

are those air cylinders? looks really good btw.

 

[Dirk]

Juice

 

[Gumby]

Glad to see they hydraulics.. What brand pumps did you go with? what set up are you running?

2/4? 2/6? 2/8? 1/5? 1/8? 4/4?

 

[Dirk]

Prohopper, 2 competition pumps 4 batts(high end deep cycle). Parker accumulaters, will be stainless hardlined front to rear.
Cylinders, 8" in front, and I am thinking 8" or maybe 6" in the rear so you won't see the cylinder over the bed. 10" cylinders on there now, and they are way too much.

I think hydraulics are cleaner than bags, everyhting can be chrome, hardlined. Plus same ride no matter what height, except lockout, more lift,etc.

 

[Gumby]

Prohopper, 2 competition pumps 4 batts(high end deep cycle). Parker accumulaters, will be stainless hardlined front to rear.
Cylinders, 8" in front, and I am thinking 8" or maybe 6" in the rear so you won't see the cylinder over the bed. 10" cylinders on there now, and they are way too much.

I think hydraulics are cleaner than bags, everyhting can be chrome, hardlined. Plus same ride no matter what height, except lockout, more lift,etc.

I agree... I've ran more hydraulic set ups then I have air... I just got a better deal this year on air then I have on hydraulics... so I could not turn it down

I assume your going to get the good parker fittings and have those chromed instead of the pro hopper chrome(they leak and are to soft). Also if I could recomend the parker pressure fittings for the accumulators with the parker cap stay away from the prohopper shrader valves or you will be replacing accumulators

 

[Dirk]

The accum are straight parkers, I assume the cap you are talking about is yellow? I have parker fittings, and haven't used any fittings that came with the kit.

 

[Gumby]

No the fitting I was talking about is the shrader valves from parker so you can adjust the pressure in the accumulator and then a black hex cap that goes over that as an extra pressure seal incase the shrader leaks that way it wont empty.

Pro hopper sells billet ones that hold pressure for maybe 48hrs if your lucky

But sounds like you already new to stay away from prohopper fittings

 

[MellowD]

looks badass!!! cant wait to see some more progress!

 

[minis_r_us]

bad ass i love the floor. anybody know where i can get my hands on the device that beeds sheetmetal like that???

 

[Chris D.]

I love the fender wells..

I'd love to have something like that done to mine..

On average, what would a shop charge to do this?
Would I check out shops that bag trucks to have this done?

 

[Chris D.]

bad ass i love the floor. anybody know where i can get my hands on the device that beeds sheetmetal like that???

www.eastwood.com :waytogo:

 

[Dirk]

www.eastwood.com :waytogo:

:badidea:
Go to harbor freight and buy their sheet metal fab kit, or whatever the hell it's called for $100. Comes with basically all the dies you need. THE DIES WILL NEED TO BE POLISHED to do show quality work. Scrap the frame that comes with it, it's junk for a bead roller. Get some 2x3 or taller and build a new frame. I beaded 14 ga, and my frame is 2x3.
One thing i have to say is, beading shrinks sheetmetal by gathering up material, if you want to bead a panel that you want flat, you need to stretch the bead area with a hammer and dolly, so when you bead it, it returns to original shape.

Here is a badass page on embossing flames and stuff with a bead roller.
http://www.datinmanjay.com/howto.html

 

[Chris D.]

good tip..

had no idea.. only place I personally have seen em..

 

[copieddemise]

Do you have a pic of that fenderwell from inside where the tire sits?

For the sake of the drivers side, I hope you're running an auto trans.

 

[Daveowen]

do you have any more pictures of the engine bay specifically the frivers side wheel tub? I need to figure out how im going to tub my wheel wells over christmas.

thanks,

Dave

 

[Dirk]

Do you have a pic of that fenderwell from inside where the tire sits?

For the sake of the drivers side, I hope you're running an auto trans.

Nope, clutch.
Sorry I don't have picture of where the tire sits.

 

[Dirk]

do you have any more pictures of the engine bay specifically the frivers side wheel tub? I need to figure out how im going to tub my wheel wells over christmas.

thanks,

Dave

I am doing the driver's side now. So I can pictures when I am done.

Check your pm's.