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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks for the info!
I already have the ball joints flipped. But I'm looking for a better solution. Currently running 18x9" Saleen replicas and 235/45-18 tires. I had stock springs and KYB heavy duty shocks, but on any bumps or hard turns I had pretty bad rubbing. Then I tried a set of 2015 Prerunner springs with 1 coil cut, and that was much better, but negated the drop. Cutting1 more coil was too much and I'm back to rubbing :D Going to try another set of Prerunner springs with one and quarter coils removed and see how that works because I really like the increased spring rate and how the truck handles. With your parts and the Prerunner springs I'm hoping to solve my issues :D
Nice I am running the same size on he front of my truck as well! To have no rubbing yo will ultimately have to tub the front wheel wells or cut em out. Tomzilla, have you considered doing the QA1 Coilover conversion for the lower control arm? There are some write ups on this website. I did it many years ago thanks to contributors on customtacos! Its the way to go. The dual adjustable shocks work awesome and provide adjustability to get the ride dialed in.
 

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Nice I am running the same size on he front of my truck as well! To have no rubbing yo will ultimately have to tub the front wheel wells or cut em out. Tomzilla, have you considered doing the QA1 Coilover conversion for the lower control arm? There are some write ups on this website. I did it many years ago thanks to contributors on customtacos! Its the way to go. The dual adjustable shocks work awesome and provide adjustability to get the ride dialed in.
I had actually debated doing the QA1 option, but I'm trying to stay low buck as I have 8 motorcycles I'm trying to build as well :D I will eventually "massage" the fenderwells once I nail down the spring rates.
May I ask what spring rate you're using on the front? I was looking at using something in the neighborhood of 500lbs springs as I drive like an idiot and want more front end support. For the back I'm going to adapt a light helper coil spring maybe off a civic with custom mounts to stiffen the rear once the leafs go past a certain amount of compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I had the 550 lbs with the 2rz engine. Before I had the 625 ad was a little much. Using the same 550s with the haaachuuu...jay zee. Works great with the 550s but have to pre load it little more than I would like. I may go to 600 with the 6 cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I had the 550 lbs with the 2rz engine. Before I had the 625 ad was a little much. Using the same 550s with the haaachuuu...jay zee. Works great with the 550s but have to pre load it little more than I would like. I may go to 600 with the 6 cylinder.
In the back I currently have 175 lbs springs coil overs only. I used to have these and removed a leaf spring. Now only this with a 4 link which I designed is perfecto. I may have start a build thread haha...
 

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I'd like to do a 4 link, but such chassis modifications are not allowed here in Honolulu, Hawaii :mad: You can't even legally c-notch a mini truck here. Full size, yes. mini, no. Stupid.
I'd still like to see your 4 link setup though :D
 

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I decided to remove these spacers. With the qa1 coilovers (8mb500 springs) and NON bj flip, yes the tierods aren't at an angle but the camber was too much. I tried adjusting the collars on the qa1s but it wont go any higher, also removed as much alignment shims that i can. Took them off and went back to flipped ball joints.

Now my alignment is better with more positive camber than with the spacers. Still has a little camber but not as much.
With the spacer, the lower arm is flat with the ground but the upper arm is pointing up causing the upper balljoint to move inwards.

I think these would work with 2" drop springs, not coilovers. Or with the djm upper arms or custom arms.
Custom drop spindles from carswellweldit would be even better. The upper bj mount is relocated.
 
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