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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I have just fabbed and installed theses spindle spacers for the 1st gen Tacoma. Made the world of difference. It will give you the same drop as a ball joint flip however will retain the same steering geometry as stock in the lower control arm assembly. This results in no bump steer. The problem with doing a ball joint flip is that it changes the lower control arm geometry and will give you toe out under compression as the steering tie rod is at an increased angle relative to the lower control arm. Toe out is twitchy and will make the truck pull to the direction the bump occurs. I would like to offer these to the customtaco community. I have a couple of these prototype sets available for 50 bucks a pair. If any one is interested, give me a holler and I would like to produce more for the future.

4130 Chromoly Steel
Powder Coated Black

[email protected]
 

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How big are these and what's the minimum wheel size required?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2.37" height.
I'm on 18" wheels. You can run 17's. Not sure of 16's but depends of the wheel offset. The further the wheels are out, the more clearance you will have of the steering components when the steering is at full lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have one set of the spindle spacers left. Ican include the hardware, 4X grade 10.9 Bolts and 4X Nordlock washersshipped to you for $65. I would like someone to purchase who has done thelower ball joint flip so they can undo it and notice the difference with these.Anyhow, let me know.




Thanks!
 

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I have one set of the spindle spacers left. Ican include the hardware, 4X grade 10.9 Bolts and 4X Nordlock washersshipped to you for $65. I would like someone to purchase who has done thelower ball joint flip so they can undo it and notice the difference with these.Anyhow, let me know.




Thanks!
how much drop do these provide?

I used to have the ball joint flip and QA1s, then i unflipped the ball joints and just turned the QA1s down a tad more...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
how much drop do these provide?

I used to have the ball joint flip and QA1s, then i unflipped the ball joints and just turned the QA1s down a tad more...
The spindle spacer will lower the vehicle roughly 2.5 inches with no modification to spring or shock. I have the QA1 coil over setup and can adjust from there. I have just finished making some tabs to relocate the brake line mount a little higher also that I can throw in as well complementary. Let me know. I am currently working on upper control arms as well.
Thanks!
 

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I've got a 99' Tacoma DLX 2.4 RWD and would like some info on this item, I looked at the pic that you posted but I'm not real sure on what I'm looking at and how these are attached I'm running stock shocks and springs up front but I want to lower the truck any help would be great thanks
 

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Hello. I have the gen 1 ext cab with the 2.4L, running 18 mustang wheels and can afford a 2-2.5" drop. I would **** to try you product out based on the "better bump streer" feature. Can I order a set from you?
 

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Ngodesign hasn't been on CT since May 2018.

I suggest you email him and / or send him a PM in the hopes of getting his attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hello All,

So I have these spindle spacers available again. If you would like to order a set please email me [email protected]. I will also be posting these on ebay.
I am selling these production versions for $120 USD a set shipped to you. This includes the mounting hardware. 4X grade 10.9 Bolts and 4X Nordlock washers.

I have a version for 17" wheels also which are 1/2 shorter and no bonsai tree design only a cross bracing.

for 17" wheel spacing 1.862"
for 18" wheel spacing 2.362" Same displacement as ball joint flip.


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are any changes needed for the upper arms in order to run these or is the upper bj flipped as well?
Yes, you will need to address the upper ball joint. You will need to have it positioned in its neutral position at ride height. You will need to cycle the front suspension, with the spring out and shock in, to make sure it can travel freely through its range of motion without binding the upper ball joint.

You want to correct the caster as well. 7 to 10 degrees degrees works well This will also help stabilization at high speeds. Notice caster on drag race cars.

People have modified the stock control arm by cutting and re welding it at the correct angle. People have also done something similar to a ball joint flip and mounted the upper control arm below the ball joint and added spacers in the middle section of the control arm to take up the space where the ball joint was originally. Or you can try to find and order a set of upper control arms.

I am in the process of making more similar to the ones I custom made for my truck. I have the fixture from that set up so the geometry is set. So I will update the post with that once I have them ready to sell.

Notice the upper ball joint angle at full Jounce. Image also shows available spacers for 17 in wheels.
View attachment 135682

I plan on using a different configuration for the bushings but here is the one I made for my truck
View attachment 135684

If anyone else interested in upper control arms let me know So I can get more motivation to make a production run.
 

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It was me who ordered your spacer for 18" on ebay, you shipped it fast. I replaced my rack and pinion and my tie rods are at an extreme angle. I cant wait to put them in and unflip the balljoint. I hope the ride height stays the same. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It was me who ordered your spacer for 18" on ebay, you shipped it fast. I replaced my rack and pinion and my tie rods are at an extreme angle. I cant wait to put them in and unflip the balljoint. I hope the ride height stays the same. Thank you.
Excellent. Thanks! Please update this thread with the results!
 

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Yes, you will need to address the upper ball joint. You will need to have it positioned in its neutral position at ride height. You will need to cycle the front suspension, with the spring out and shock in, to make sure it can travel freely through its range of motion without binding the upper ball joint.

You want to correct the caster as well. 7 to 10 degrees degrees works well This will also help stabilization at high speeds. Notice caster on drag race cars.

People have modified the stock control arm by cutting and re welding it at the correct angle. People have also done something similar to a ball joint flip and mounted the upper control arm below the ball joint and added spacers in the middle section of the control arm to take up the space where the ball joint was originally. Or you can try to find and order a set of upper control arms.

I am in the process of making more similar to the ones I custom made for my truck. I have the fixture from that set up so the geometry is set. So I will update the post with that once I have them ready to sell.

Notice the upper ball joint angle at full Jounce. Image also shows available spacers for 17 in wheels.
View attachment 135682

I plan on using a different configuration for the bushings but here is the one I made for my truck
View attachment 135684

If anyone else interested in upper control arms let me know So I can get more motivation to make a production run.
Thanks for the info!
I already have the ball joints flipped. But I'm looking for a better solution. Currently running 18x9" Saleen replicas and 235/45-18 tires. I had stock springs and KYB heavy duty shocks, but on any bumps or hard turns I had pretty bad rubbing. Then I tried a set of 2015 Prerunner springs with 1 coil cut, and that was much better, but negated the drop. Cutting1 more coil was too much and I'm back to rubbing :D Going to try another set of Prerunner springs with one and quarter coils removed and see how that works because I really like the increased spring rate and how the truck handles. With your parts and the Prerunner springs I'm hoping to solve my issues :D
 
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