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Mambeau / Admin
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There's no test other than making sure there's a good connection. Just clean it up to make sure there's a good ground connection.

Remember - this is just a check to see if your ignition problem is resulting from a bad ground.
 

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There's no test other than making sure there's a good connection. Just clean it up to make sure there's a good ground connection.

Remember - this is just a check to see if your ignition problem is resulting from a bad ground.
Okay so I checked it and it looks good lil dusty but cleaned it and screwed bolt back on I hope this solve the problem but I doubt it
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Okay so I checked it and it looks good lil dusty but cleaned it and screwed bolt back on I hope this solve the problem but I doubt it
The next time it's cold enough for this problem to occur, try turning on something other than the A/C or the headlights to see if that causes the engine to stall / stumble.

Specifically ... Try the turn signals, wipers or radio when doing this test.
 

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The next time it's cold enough for this problem to occur, try turning on something other than the A/C or the headlights to see if that causes the engine to stall / stumble.

Specifically ... Try the turn signals, wipers or radio when doing this test.
Okay Ive tried signals before and it dont stall it stumbles the rpm up and down though radio on all the time also havent tried wipers but only stall with ac or headlights I have a feeling when its cold its not getting enough power to be able to keep ac or headlights on because it has no problem at all when warmed up for 5-7 minutes I can turn ac and lights on Please lmk what you think brother🙏🏼
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Try the wipers, and try the turn signals. Now (at the present time), separately from any other electrical load (radio, lights, A/C, etc.) and immediately following a cold start.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Here's my first guess as to what's going on ... I think it might be one of two things ...

#1:
It's simply a weak battery and / or a weak generator output. Until the engine warms up there isn't enough available charge to handle the A/C and / or the headlights and the ECM and ignition system.

#2:
Refer to the attached 1996 power source diagram.

The topmost power circuit, coming off the 80A ALT fuse / breaker / whatever, is the power source for the ECM, the A/C system, and the tail lights (which are activated along with the headlights). When you turn on the lights and / or the A/C it's drawing down the overall circuit's voltage and starving the ECM, which causes the engine to stumble.

This could be a side-effect of a weak charge (see above), or it might result from a short circuit or current leakage somewhere among the various units drawing power off that main power circuit.

The radio, wipers and turn signals are also on that circuit. That's why I want you to test those 3 things individually / separately to see if they cause the problem on a cold start.
 

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Try the wipers, and try the turn signals. Now (at the present time), separately from any other electrical load (radio, lights, A/C, etc.) and immediately following a cold start.
Here's my first guess as to what's going on ... I think it might be one of two things ...

#1:
It's simply a weak battery and / or a weak generator output. Until the engine warms up there isn't enough available charge to handle the A/C and / or the headlights and the ECM and ignition system.

#2:
Refer to the attached 1996 power source diagram.

The topmost power circuit, coming off the 80A ALT fuse / breaker / whatever, is the power source for the ECM, the A/C system, and the tail lights (which are activated along with the headlights). When you turn on the lights and / or the A/C it's drawing down the overall circuit's voltage and starving the ECM, which causes the engine to stumble.

This could be a side-effect of a weak charge (see above), or it might result from a short circuit or current leakage somewhere among the various units drawing power off that main power circuit.

The radio, wipers and turn signals are also on that circuit. That's why I want you to test those 3 things individually / separately to see if they cause the problem on a cold start.
Battery is brand new and alternator tested good I will get both check again tomorrow at autozone since they check them for free just to make sure okay. I will try all those individually pretty sure they will stumble like its going to stall except for the radio its more normal than all of them but if its the 80a alt fuse you think its able to throw code p1300 on I will also take it out and check it if I can heard that fuse is not as simple.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Assuming the battery and generator are both 'good' ...

I don't think the problem is the 80A ALT fuse (whatever) itself. I think you've got a short circuit or wiring fault somewhere in the power circuit coming off that fuse / breaker. It might be in the ignition / igniter sub-circuit; it might be somewhere else.

My guess is that the engine is stumbling because the ECM is stumbling because the ECM power is disrupted because of a voltage drop on that overall circuit whenever you switch on additional powered units.

It could be as simple as a bad or loose connection somewhere.
 

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Assuming the battery and generator are both 'good' ...

I don't think the problem is the 80A ALT fuse (whatever) itself. I think you've got a short circuit or wiring fault somewhere in the power circuit coming off that fuse / breaker. It might be in the ignition / igniter sub-circuit; it might be somewhere else.

My guess is that the engine is stumbling because the ECM is stumbling because the ECM power is disrupted because of a voltage drop on that overall circuit whenever you switch on additional powered units.

It could be as simple as a bad or loose connection somewhere.
Ill double check if my alternator is still good feels like its not because after it gets cold again sometimes I drive it put in gear or neutral at a stop it will die but start right back up about 2-3 times and they say its alternator if im driving and car stalls right
 

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Ill double check if my alternator is still good feels like its not because after it gets cold again sometimes I drive it put in gear or neutral at a stop it will die but start right back up about 2-3 times and they say its alternator if im driving and car stalls right
I did the test on each one individually the radio does nothing the wipers stumbles the car rpm the windshield fluid spraying stalls it the signals stumbles it Okay so I got it check and nothing is wrong with it at all battery and alternator so it cant be the fuse might be the ignition like your saying car does have aftermarket radio and I think before it had a aftermarket alarm Maybe they mess a wire up or the ecm bad and needs to be fix or replaced is my only guess now
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Because multiple accessories / units on that same power circuit cause the engine to stumble I still think somewhere something's causing a current drop that's messing with the ECM or maybe one of the ignition components.
 

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Because multiple accessories / units on that same power circuit cause the engine to stumble I still think somewhere something's causing a current drop that's messing with the ECM or maybe one of the ignition components.
Hope a toyota mechanic can help me figure it out soon because it looks like theres no vacuum leak no where hoses look straight the wires are all good I cant find a single bad one at all Ive been looking for a week now im so upset ground both Ie and eb nothing wrong with it
 

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Because multiple accessories / units on that same power circuit cause the engine to stumble I still think somewhere something's causing a current drop that's messing with the ECM or maybe one of the ignition components.
Now my car rpm goes up and down crazy then stalls out in reverse 1rst gear and neutral what can this be can it be my tps doing this I need help so bad man
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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OK ... The P1300 code is a general code for an igniter circuit malfunction. There are really only 3 faults that can trip a P1300:

  • bad igniter
  • bad ECM
  • bad connection between the igniter and the ECM

Here (attached) is the 4-cylinder P1300 diagnostic procedure from the 1995.5 FSM. It should be the same for a 1996.

Notice that the ECM pin locations are different for an automatic versus a manual.
 

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OK ... The P1300 code is a general code for an igniter circuit malfunction. There are really only 3 faults that can trip a P1300:

  • bad igniter
  • bad ECM
  • bad connection between the igniter and the ECM

Here (attached) is the 4-cylinder P1300 diagnostic procedure from the 1995.5 FSM. It should be the same for a 1996.

Notice that the ECM pin locations are different for an automatic versus a manual.
Okay thanks for this ill try to do this with one of those voltage readers
 

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OK ... The P1300 code is a general code for an igniter circuit malfunction. There are really only 3 faults that can trip a P1300:

  • bad igniter
  • bad ECM
  • bad connection between the igniter and the ECM

Here (attached) is the 4-cylinder P1300 diagnostic procedure from the 1995.5 FSM. It should be the same for a 1996.

Notice that the ECM pin locations are different for an automatic versus a manual.
Okay so I got it to drive again but a new code p0300 shows up I believe this is engine misfires can you clarify this for me please
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Here's what the FSM says ...

P0300
Misfiring of random cylinders is detected during any particular 200 or 1,000 revolutions

Trouble Area
• Ignition system
• Injector
• Fuel line pressure
• EGR
• Compression pressure
• Valve clearance not to specification • Valve timing
• Mass air flow meter
• Engine coolant temp. sensor

It could be any of a number of things causing it.

For what it's worth I suspect it's the ignition system rather than any of the others, because a fault in the other items listed above shouldn't have triggered a P1300 in the first place.

What did you find when you used the voltmeter?
What did you do to get it to run again?
 

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Here's what the FSM says ...

P0300
Misfiring of random cylinders is detected during any particular 200 or 1,000 revolutions

Trouble Area
• Ignition system
• Injector
• Fuel line pressure
• EGR
• Compression pressure
• Valve clearance not to specification • Valve timing
• Mass air flow meter
• Engine coolant temp. sensor

It could be any of a number of things causing it.

For what it's worth I suspect it's the ignition system rather than any of the others, because a fault in the other items listed above shouldn't have triggered a P1300 in the first place.

What did you find when you used the voltmeter?
What did you do to get it to run again?
I just switch the ignition igniter back to the one that was there before I replaced it and i cleaned the ground area up. so im going to pick n pull tomorrow to get igniter off a 98 and 2000 and I will try to get the tps and distributors do you know if a 91 is capable with 96
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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No ... A 1991 Toyota Pickup (22-RE) and a 1996 Tacoma (3RZ) are two entirely different trucks.

Here's some more bad news about trying to get parts off a '98 or '00 model ...

Don't waste you time on '98 - '00 parts. You need to focus on parts from a 1995.5 or 1996 3RZ 4-cylinder.

The ignition setup was changed to an electronic ignition for the 1997 model year - no distributor and two ignition coils each controlling two cylinders. You can't find direct swap-out parts for a 1996 3RZ ignition system from trucks sold in 1997 onward.

Another 1997 change ... The scheme for the ECM reading the TPS was changed. I have no idea whether the TPS unit changed for 1997 onward, so I can't verify whether you can use a TPS from a 1997+ model.
 

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No ... A 1991 Toyota Pickup (22-RE) and a 1996 Tacoma (3RZ) are two entirely different trucks.

Here's some more bad news about trying to get parts off a '98 or '00 model ...

Don't waste you time on '98 - '00 parts. You need to focus on parts from a 1995.5 or 1996 3RZ 4-cylinder.

The ignition setup was changed to an electronic ignition for the 1997 model year - no distributor and two ignition coils each controlling two cylinders. You can't find direct swap-out parts for a 1996 3RZ ignition system from trucks sold in 1997 onward.

Another 1997 change ... The scheme for the ECM reading the TPS was changed. I have no idea whether the TPS unit changed for 1997 onward, so I can't verify whether you can use a TPS from a 1997+ model.
Okay thank you got it only 1995-96 parts you are saying and they have to be 2.7 3rz engines
 
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