i've had nothing but problems with iridium's in turbo'd or s/c'd cars.. always fouling out as you said.. and ive had nothing but great things to say about copper plugs.. so i'd say go for it.. they're not really that expensive anyways:waytogo:
Non Iridium Spark Plugs for Supercharged 5VZ
Alright I currently have the IK22s on my 4Runner. My setup is supercharged, supra injectors, walbro 190, and a unichip tuner. My plugs are only about a month old but they seem to be fouling out already. Truck seems to have significantly less power at times then before. I have been reading that these IK22s can foul out quickly. So what I'm looking for is a two step colder copper plug similar to stock. There is a thread on yotatech about this: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/spark-plug-part-numbers-supercharged-engines-200040/
But several part numbers are tossed around and noone really has a straight answer. Does anyone have experience with two step colder copper plugs that could point me in the right direction?
But several part numbers are tossed around and noone really has a straight answer. Does anyone have experience with two step colder copper plugs that could point me in the right direction?
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Yeah I'm just trying to find the correct part # for two step colder coppers....
Is BCPR7ET #2164 correct?
Ive been runnin the copper-2 steps cooler. Switchin them out 2maro 2 Ik24-3 step coolers. ill let ya know how they work out.
ive got a brand new set of the copper 2 step coolers urd used to sell. Ill post up the model # when home in am.
ive got a brand new set of the copper 2 step coolers urd used to sell. Ill post up the model # when home in am.
Not to complicate this any more but I use BCPR7ES #6282 on my 2JZ. Anyone know the diff between them? Both copper core and 7 heat range... so maybe just the gap it comes @?Is BCPR7ET #2164 correct?
Have you tried the Iridium 1 step colder plugs yet?
shayne
shayne
i can tell u for sure that the bcpr7et are what i ran with my blower for 50k + miles with no issues, ive had them with my turbo too - just fine. order em up and call it a day - they are in fact what gadget used to sell / reccommend.
The copper core SP I bot from URD are k22pbr-s #5062. supposed 2b 2 steps cooler,
I have in hand what Gadget used to sell. Bought em' when I thought I had a spark issue, but it was something else so I'm still rocking the Iridiums just fine. This is what is on the box (three ground prongs- two step colder, can't remember the gap)
K22PBR-S#4
5062#4
Resistor
Someone else mentioned this to me, the Supra n/a injectors are drop in for our 3.4??
K22PBR-S#4
5062#4
Resistor
Someone else mentioned this to me, the Supra n/a injectors are drop in for our 3.4??
So according to this breakdown, the difference would be the electrode. S-standard 2.6mm center electrode, T- 3ground electrode. Anyway, the BCPR7ES makes for a great tuning plug because it is relatively inexpensive.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ngk-Spark-Plug-Code-Break-t205931.html
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ngk-Spark-Plug-Code-Break-t205931.html
NGK
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/
BKR5E-11 (Stock)
BKR6E-11 (1 Step colder)
BKR7E-11 (2 Step colder)
I had the same problems as you with the IK22s, I'm now using IK20s and reduced the gap from 0.044 to 0.040 and the truck feels great and the plugs aren't fouling anymore. I suggest you use 1 step colder BKR6E-11.
You can also use the denso K20TR11 which is a one step colder plug than the one the truck comes with, it's a dual electrode.
Both BKR6E-11 and K20TR11 are less than 2 bucks each, so they're pretty cheap.
I Suggest you stay within recommended plugs by the manufacturers Denso and NGK as they're tested on the 5VZ thoroughly and use 1 step colder plugs.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/
BKR5E-11 (Stock)
BKR6E-11 (1 Step colder)
BKR7E-11 (2 Step colder)
I had the same problems as you with the IK22s, I'm now using IK20s and reduced the gap from 0.044 to 0.040 and the truck feels great and the plugs aren't fouling anymore. I suggest you use 1 step colder BKR6E-11.
You can also use the denso K20TR11 which is a one step colder plug than the one the truck comes with, it's a dual electrode.
Both BKR6E-11 and K20TR11 are less than 2 bucks each, so they're pretty cheap.
I Suggest you stay within recommended plugs by the manufacturers Denso and NGK as they're tested on the 5VZ thoroughly and use 1 step colder plugs.
K22PBR-S are gaped 0.032 from factory, needs to gaped to 0.040 - 0.044I have in hand what Gadget used to sell. Bought em' when I thought I had a spark issue, but it was something else so I'm still rocking the Iridiums just fine. This is what is on the box (three ground prongs- two step colder, can't remember the gap)
K22PBR-S#4
5062#4
Resistor
Someone else mentioned this to me, the Supra n/a injectors are drop in for our 3.4??
I thought the one step and two step colder iridium are gapped at .032 (what Denso says, and when I bought mine I was told they were .035) also. I have un-gapped IK22s on the truck with no issue. Maybe the idle could be smoother with a larger gap, but I'm not sure. Anyhow as the plugs wear the gap will open up, so time will tell haha.
IK20 0.044 and IK22 0.032I thought the one step and two step colder iridium are gapped at .032 also. I have un-gapped IK22s on the truck with no issue. Maybe the idle could be smoother with a larger gap, but I'm not sure. Anyhow as the plugs wear the gap will open up, so time will tell haha.
I thought 0.043-0.044 was the best gap for the 5VZ but I reduced the gap on mine to 0.040-0.039 and the truck feels better. Today I'm going to try a set of plugs with 0.035...
I didn't double check my gap but I will go with it being .032. It drives fine but that isn't saying much.
Just like someone saying atmospheric venting of the crank case is "fine", its because the damage being done is not perceivable with the butt, or within thousands of miles (unless sending oil to blackstone).
My idle could probably be improved upon (still need to clean my IAC), and mileage could use help too. The plug gap could be, or not be, a large contributor to my particular setup, but I have not used the equipment necessary to perceive these differences.
As is, the idle isn't so bad I'm really concerned, it has 160K on the clock and I am comparing it to an I6 Lexus (it just seems like when I first bought the truck used it was smoother), and mileage is about 260 miles a tank, not the greatest for a 3.4 S/C, but IMO not in the red zone either.
IMO, I could probably put my old OEs back on and be fine (previous owner took it to Toyota for service and from what I pulled out looks like OE two prong plugs, not something colder), as I run water meth from 0psi on up, so the two step colder are probably not even getting to 'self cleaning' temps. And I have not read about spark being easily blown out on these trucks. I ran the OE plugs on WOT pulls without spark blowing out.
Just like someone saying atmospheric venting of the crank case is "fine", its because the damage being done is not perceivable with the butt, or within thousands of miles (unless sending oil to blackstone).
My idle could probably be improved upon (still need to clean my IAC), and mileage could use help too. The plug gap could be, or not be, a large contributor to my particular setup, but I have not used the equipment necessary to perceive these differences.
As is, the idle isn't so bad I'm really concerned, it has 160K on the clock and I am comparing it to an I6 Lexus (it just seems like when I first bought the truck used it was smoother), and mileage is about 260 miles a tank, not the greatest for a 3.4 S/C, but IMO not in the red zone either.
IMO, I could probably put my old OEs back on and be fine (previous owner took it to Toyota for service and from what I pulled out looks like OE two prong plugs, not something colder), as I run water meth from 0psi on up, so the two step colder are probably not even getting to 'self cleaning' temps. And I have not read about spark being easily blown out on these trucks. I ran the OE plugs on WOT pulls without spark blowing out.
I went back to OEM thermostat and 1 step colder plugs and smaller gap and I can tell that the truck likes it. I was using TRD thermo then Gates 170 with 2 steps colder plugs, maybe in a dyno I could tell if the engine was producing more HP at top RPMs but my butt dyno is happier with the current setup, cruising is better and part throttle boost is better.
To the original OP, sorry about the thread hijack :evil:
To the original OP, sorry about the thread hijack :evil:
Go with the 5062s below. They are two ranges colder. My Iridiums didn't last for a tank of gas before they all fouled. The three prong seem to be very resistant to fouling.Alright I currently have the IK22s on my 4Runner. My setup is supercharged, supra injectors, walbro 190, and a unichip tuner. My plugs are only about a month old but they seem to be fouling out already. Truck seems to have significantly less power at times then before. I have been reading that these IK22s can foul out quickly. So what I'm looking for is a two step colder copper plug similar to stock. There is a thread on yotatech about this: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/spark-plug-part-numbers-supercharged-engines-200040/
But several part numbers are tossed around and noone really has a straight answer. Does anyone have experience with two step colder copper plugs that could point me in the right direction?
Thanks for the info.Go with the 5062s below. They are two ranges colder. My Iridiums didn't last for a tank of gas before they all fouled. The three prong seem to be very resistant to fouling.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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