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No Bracket 5 lug Budget Big Brake Kit

26359 Views 81 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Fiebru2rz
For years people have made big brake kits for the 5 lug first gen tacomas but no one has ever offered much info or has used all custom parts that cost an arm and a leg. My goal with this was to find stuff that can easily be obtained at a decent price and share all the information i gathered openly. By pure chance i found these calipers that line up perfectly with the stock spindles. I have yet to finish the kit completely but ive mounted enough to share my findings so far. I still need to gather more information but this is about 95% complete. Hope this can help some people out. Also this will require a minimum 17" wheel. It will also depend on width and offset as well. My 17x9 +35 enkei rpf1s cleared with no issues.

Here are all the parts i used. I have yet to confirm that the brake lines will work for this application. So if buying these parts please wait until i confirm that they work properly.

Also please note that the amazon links below are linked to my partner account so i will net a small commision if purchased from that link. It doesnt cost you anything and i have listed all part numbers if you choose to search elsewhere for lower prices. But this is the lowest price i was able to find myself.

Disclaimer: the price of the calipers fluctuates regularly. The prices i have listed below are what i paid at the time i purchased them. You may have to wait for the price to drop to get the best deal.

As stated in the title the calipers mount directly to the stock mounting location on the stock 95-04 tacoma spindle. BUT the holes will need tobe drilled out to accept the larger bolt that the caliper uses and slightly shimmed out to align it with the rotor. I will list the drill bit size and shim size later when i have access to it again.

For the rotors (Evo 9 Front 12.6") those will need to be machined to fit the tacoma hub assembly. The center bore needs to be bored out and the mounting holes drilled and tapped to accept the stock hardware used to mount the hubs. I have attached a picture showing the modifications made.

According to the specs i found online the steel braided brake lines listed SHOULD work with the tacoma hard lines but like i said i have yet to confirm that so please wait on that. If anything the lines will be a little longer than needed but some creative routing solves that issue. Thanks to jose matos for confirming that.

Summary of parts

Cadillac ATS Brembo Calipers
Cadillac CTS-V Brake Pads
Mitsubishi Evolution 9 Front Rotors
Subaru WRX STI Front Brake lines

Brake Parts

Driver Side Brembo Caliper

PART #: 172-2586

COST: $104.14

http://amzn.to/2j08DwK



Passenger Side Brembo Caliper

PART# 172-2587

COST: $113.71

http://amzn.to/2j9BgCU



Caliper Hardware Kit

PART #: 18K1971X

COST: $18.58

http://amzn.to/2kn8Zy0



StopTech Steel Braided Brake Lines

PART#: 950.47006 $52.02

http://amzn.to/2jsw7qO



StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads

PART #: 309.10010

COST: $54.18

http://amzn.to/2jsyWYM



StopTech Blank Rotors (Evo 9 Front 12.6")

PART #: st121.46064

COST: $103.79

http://www.czeromedia.com/index.php/...optech-rotors/


Total: $446.42

Cost of rotor machining depends on what your machinist charges you.

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Just finding the washers/shims to go between the caliper and the knuckle. I wouldn't say a real "issue" per se, but when you go looking for them, just take a micrometer/caliper with you so you can be sure how thick the ones you are getting. He calls for 2x 2mm shims on each bolt between the caliper and knuckle, and I ended up only having about 3.7mm with two washers/shims together, so I'd say his measurement for 2x 2mm(4mm total) washers doesn't have to be exact. Just in the ball park. I'd say if your shim was 4mm +/- about .5mm then you are probably good, but of course take your own measurements just to be sure, I don't make any promises. I've got plenty of clearance on both sides of the rotor at 3.7mm of shim. With no pads installed just make sure the rotor doesn't contact the caliper at any point.

Also just so everyone else has a ball park figure for machining, my local machinist charged me 65 dollars per rotor to make them fit. and he did a great job. I'm sure if I shopped around I could have saved a few bucks, but I don't live exactly close to town, and this machinist was the closest to me, so I save the money in gas I suppose.

Also, if I was to do it again, I would just give the machine shop the bolts for the caliper and have them make me some 4mm shims out of some stock so you don't have to deal with two washers on each bolt for shimming, and it makes for a neater install. Just my extra to add to it, I guess.

BTW, I'm running a 17x10, 0 offset steel wheel, and I had to order wheel spacers at least 8mm thick in order to clear the caliper. I went with a 10mm just for extra peace of mind as well as longer 10.9 lug studs. The calipers clear the inside of the wheel just fine, but the part of the wheel that hits is where the "spokes" meet the center of the wheel, near the lug holes.
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Man, I gotta do this sooner than later. About to up the power this year...
This is a definite upgrade if you are upping the power. The last time I drove my truck before doing this upgrade I turned the boost up to 16~psi and after the second good pull my brakes went to the floor trying to stop. So I parked it and put it on jack stands and started this swap. Ill have to post a pic of the rotors I pulled off. They are bluish-purple from heat :|
These rotors were a shiney silver before those last couple runs and then deciding it needed bigger brakes before I killed myself or someone else.

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Yeah, I get about three good stops on mine before the fade is so bad that I have no sense of stopping distance anymore. I found this out when I was.... auto crossing my childhood road (Appalachian Mountain Valley). The fade happened and I missed the driveway turn for my childhood house by 100+ feet. That's when things got real for me. I was confident I could beat an F1 driver or whomever on that road, I knew it so well... that's how big my balls... were. Keep in mind, I had ripped on that road in the past with a crotch rocket too, going waaaaaaayyyyy faster, so the no brakes situation was very pivotal for me as well.

Don't tell anyone, but I bought the CX Racing kit for the 5vz. That's the power "adder" -- getting rid of TRD S/C. I want 300 hp at the wheel, turbo should do it. I might just build this engine, as Texas_Ace suggested some time ago opposed to doing a 2JZGTE build. All depends on... life. I want to convert it to electric, but it's easily 4 times the cost of the 2jz build. (shrug) Dreams.

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Here are some better pics in an album, for some reason this site really compressed the pics I attached to my other repies...

http://imgur.com/a/9tdEWsg
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Got mine mounted up. Can't wait to get them bled with the RBF600 I've had for a while lying in wait for a brake upgrade, then see just how capable these things are with my 100 treadwear semi slick hankooks ?
I went with the same fluid. make sure you grab a few bottles lol. i used about 2 and a half. oh also make sure you bleed both fittings on the calipers. I had someone complain to me that their pedal felt soft and it was because they didnt bleed both fittings.
Got mine mounted up. Can't wait to get them bled with the RBF600 I've had for a while lying in wait for a brake upgrade, then see just how capable these things are with my 100 treadwear semi slick hankooks ?
I went with the same fluid. make sure you grab a few bottles lol. i used about 2 and a half. oh also make sure you bleed both fittings on the calipers. I had someone complain to me that their pedal felt soft and it was because they didnt bleed both fittings.
I was curious about that. I'm glad you mentioned it. I wasn't sure if that was necessary or not, lol.
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I was curious about that. I'm glad you mentioned it. I wasn't sure if that was necessary or not, lol.
Lol no problem man.
Just dropped my rotors off at the machine shop. Picking them up Monday hopefully. Got my calipers mounted yesterday during lunch. Excited about this upgrade. Only piece of the puzzle left to get is brake pads. Advance Auto is right across the street from my shop, so I'll pick those up soon.


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Here's mine behind my 17x10, 0 offset steelies with semi slick 235\45ZR17 Hankook Ventus TDs

Full resolution
http://imgur.com/yzfB0RT

Tire Alloy wheel Wheel Automotive tire Rim
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Can you get me a side profile pic of your truck? I've been wanting those wheels but want sure how far they stick out...
Here's mine behind my 17x10, 0 offset steelies with semi slick 235\45ZR17 Hankook Ventus TDs

Full resolution
http://imgur.com/yzfB0RT

View attachment 126847
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Can you get me a side profile pic of your truck? I've been wanting those wheels but want sure how far they stick out...
Here's mine behind my 17x10, 0 offset steelies with semi slick 235\45ZR17 Hankook Ventus TDs

Full resolution
http://imgur.com/yzfB0RT

View attachment 126847
Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk

http://imgur.com/a/JKGJN03
https://imgur.com/a/U4aTjT7

Here's a couple pics. This is a while back before I started pulling and rolling the fenders and bedsides. Keep in mind if you run an offset near zero, then you'll need spacers to clear the new calipers... I needed at least 8mm, so I went 10mm just to be safe, and with that I had to install longer wheel studs, which is a bitch in the rear BTW. Fronts are cake though.

Since I started pulling body panels, and I am not a body man by any means, I am now going to install some slim-ish flares to hopefully cover up my terrible rolling job, lmao.
http://imgur.com/a/JKGJN03
https://imgur.com/a/U4aTjT7

Here's a couple pics. This is a while back before I started pulling and rolling the fenders and bedsides. Keep in mind if you run an offset near zero, then you'll need spacers to clear the new calipers... I needed at least 8mm, so I went 10mm just to be safe, and with that I had to install longer wheel studs, which is a bitch in the rear BTW. Fronts are cake though.

Since I started pulling body panels, and I am not a body man by any means, I am now going to install some slim-ish flares to hopefully cover up my terrible rolling job, lmao.
I love it! I've always been a fan of the stock car style wheels. I wanted to get a staggered set. 17x9 fronts and 17x10 rears. I'm working on a new rear end for my truck now. 4 link, 3.73 ring and pinion, lockright locker, disc brakes. Rear is an "8.4" from a 5-lug V6 taco.


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http://imgur.com/a/JKGJN03
https://imgur.com/a/U4aTjT7

Here's a couple pics. This is a while back before I started pulling and rolling the fenders and bedsides. Keep in mind if you run an offset near zero, then you'll need spacers to clear the new calipers... I needed at least 8mm, so I went 10mm just to be safe, and with that I had to install longer wheel studs, which is a bitch in the rear BTW. Fronts are cake though.

Since I started pulling body panels, and I am not a body man by any means, I am now going to install some slim-ish flares to hopefully cover up my terrible rolling job, lmao.
I love it! I've always been a fan of the stock car style wheels. I wanted to get a staggered set. 17x9 fronts and 17x10 rears. I'm working on a new rear end for my truck now. 4 link, 3.73 ring and pinion, lockright locker, disc brakes. Rear is an "8.4" from a 5-lug V6 taco.


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I've got a Detroit tru-trac, 4.10 gears, and currently half way done with the rear disc conversion that's been sitting in my attic for like 4 years...lol. I literally just finished the driver's side... Taking a break before pulling the passenger side.

The 4 link will come with time...

http://imgur.com/a/nNNw9q3
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Awesome guys! Love seeing you guys put the information to use!
Almost done...


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Help! CTS V pads are huge and the pins don't line up... Am I supposed to get ATS pads? Or rear CTS V pads?

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For anyone else doing this project, it requires 1st Gen CTS V pads. Don't know if it says that anywhere... I didn't see it.

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Anyone else experience caliper on rotor rubbing? Just on the inside of the driver side...

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I bought the exact parts that he listed when it comes to the calipers/pads/hardware kit and all of my stuff went together just like it's supposed to.

When it comes to the rotor rubbing on the caliper, you have to make sure you are using the right sized shims between the knuckle and caliper. It took some shuffling of shims around and a couple trips to the parts store for me...
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