[Dirk]

Here are my uppers I built using the screw in ball joint. This joint gets 30 degrees travel, alot more than than the stock joint. Built from 1" DOM and tig welded. Thought i would share.
Later

 

[MellowD]

look good! nice work :waytogo:

 

[tacoturbo95]

How much for a set?

 

[copieddemise]

Looks good. Is the ball joint flat? Are the arms symmetrical, same arm both sides / ball joint centered into the arm or did you build some caster into 'em?

 

[Trtle]

nice work man. what else have you made?

 

[Dirk]

How much for a set?

It depends.
If you want bushings (they accept the stock bushing, I am going to use the daystar bushings) and if you want the ball joints included. The joints are only about $20 a peice, and the daystar bushing kit is about ? $70 through summit racing.
Also what length would you want them? Stock length, longer than stock?
Mine are 1/2" longer, but I also have a 1/2" spindle spacer.

So, does $200 a set, any length , without bushing or joints(they are just a moog or TRW ball joint that can be picked up at the local parts house) sound fair? I would try to see if I could get a deal on bushings but there is a 2 week lead time from Daystar.

The only thing about the screw in ball joint is that 2 washers are needed to make the castle nut reach the cotter pin hole, not a problem though, mustang II kits are this way.

 

[Dirk]

Looks good. Is the ball joint flat? Are the arms symmetrical, same arm both sides / ball joint centered into the arm or did you build some caster into 'em?

They are symmetrical, because they are going on a slammed truck.
I built a universal fixture , so building caster into them wouldn't be much of a problem.

 

[Dirk]

nice work man. what else have you made?

Go down a couple posts to Taco Build pics.

 

[footinmouth]

Dirk, I have a couple things I need made for my anti-sway bars,would you be interested in making them? thanks John

 

[OGSpacePimp]

So, does $200 a set, any length , without bushing or joints(they are just a moog or TRW ball joint that can be picked up at the local parts house) sound fair?

i will have to keep that in mind, i would like some longer arms so i can have a decent alignment low....will be a little while before i can afford em though, sounds like a decent deal though

 

[badcoma]

looks good kinda like what i'm doind except mine are going to have uni-balls and threaded end links. keep up the good work.

 

[Dirk]

Dirk, I have a couple things I need made for my anti-sway bars,would you be interested in making them? thanks John

What do you need? I have access to a full machine shop, so I am sure i can help you out.

 

[footinmouth]

I want to make sliding anti-sway bar end links for my rear 5/8 bar.It will be a clamp that will slide foward on the bar to tune my suspention.A braket will also have to be made that I will weld or bolt to the frame for the top of the end link. I think 3 holes will be fine for the top braket. This way i can move the bar 1 1/5 inches. The front won't slide it will mount about 1 1/4 behind the factory hole. The front bar has a flat section I can drill a hole in ,Only problem is the flat section is on the side so the bolt will have to be parallel with the ground and have a heim joint. Grabbing the front bar 1 1/4 back should make it alot stiffer .My truck is an 01 and if you look under a toyota you will see the flat part of the bar.So after its all in I can tune the rear to match the front .I hope I explained it so you can understand.