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Discussion Starter #1
ok, been getting random 0300 and even an occasional P0303 code on my taco. I ran 2 tanks with seafoam and it seemed to get better, but its back now. It mostly happens after I start it after at least a few hours off, and it shakes the stick a lot for about 10 seconds until the engine gets going, then seems ok and smooths out.
Mileage: 182000
just had 80k service done in january at the dealer - they only mentioned i could use a decarboninzing service.
KN air filter, almost new
I do get gas at a non-name brand place so my next step is to fill up at chevron and run another can of seafoam in it.

Should I run seafoam though my MAF and add to oil at all?
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Is there any chance it's a poor electrical / battery connection like you described earlier this year?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
good question and thanks for checking my previous posts. i'll check that tomorrow but i completely reseated the battery terminal then and have not had a dead start since then. totally forgot about that but I guess it can come loose again.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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I recognized you and the misfire problem, and then located the previous thread in trying to verify whether my memory was faulty ... :evil:

I'd suggest double-checking the state of the last known cause before setting out to identify and fix a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
just drove to the beach and back. on the way there, sluggish, 0300 codes and one 0303 code. went for a run and came back, cleaned the battery terminals and reseated the connection, then drove home. Same conditions but more smoother than the way there, sluggish, jerking, flashing CEL would come on and then go off. scangauge said "no codes, not ready". I'm at 1/4 tank left so maybe got some bad gas? I think my next step is to get better gas and replace my battery and terminals. Battery has some corrosion on it.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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... I think my next step is to get better gas and replace my battery and terminals. Battery has some corrosion on it.
I think that's the wise approach for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just installed new battery. old one had a bit of corrosion. Still sluggish leaving the auto parts store, one flashing CEL but turned off by itself. Scangauge still not recording any codes - "no codes - not ready". Went to chevron with 1/8 tank left, stuck a can of seafoam in then filled with mid-grade 89. Seemed smoother almost immediately leaving the gas station so I drove for 4 miles getting it up to 65. Very slight sputtering still but no CEL's at all. I think next step is to drive it for a bit. I did wire-brush both of the battery post clamps but they are still a bit dirty.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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I don't know for sure, but I think it's the Air Tube Hose - aka Cool Air Intake Hose.

Part # 17882-75050
 

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Discussion Starter #11
this mornings drive..
from home to work (3.5 miles) - sputtering, 2 flashing CELS, very jittery and sluggish.
forgot my phone at home so had to go back for it
from work to home (3.2 miles) - one CEL P0300 code, moments of good power but some sputtering
Home back to work (3.5 mi) - clean. not a single misfire or hiccup. You wouldn't have guessed it was the same truck you drove this morning.
starting to look like bad gas and/or its buildup.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
drive home: P0303 code flashing CEL, actually heard a few backfires. smoothed out as I drove home but sputtering when i got home and idling in the carport, exhaust has random poofs. I don't want to keep driving like this if its damaging my catyl.
Plugs are new as of 12/21.
The only other thing i replaced was the thermostat a month ago. What should I check next? Or should i throw in the towel and take it in for service?
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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The problem with misfire issues is that they can result from any number of things that all have to be working together just to make a cylinder fire once.

Were the trips home and back to work (post #11 ) for lunch? Was the engine still warm for the trip back to work? Maybe the engine being warm is a clue ...
 

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If you have access to a compression gauge, I would run a basic test to ensure all cylinders are pretty equal...


If you don't have access to a compression gauge,
clear your DTCs and you can try swapping the ignition coil from cylinder #3 with the coil from cylinder #1 and see if your P0303 (misfire cyl #3 ) code becomes a P0301(misfire cyl. #1 ) code after driving it. If your code changes, It is probably a faulty ignition coil. If the P0303 code resets, clear the codes again and do a similar swap with the fuel injectors.
So basically...the P0303 code is the best clue you have to work with, so start your journey by focusing on things that deal with cylinder #3 first.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you have access to a compression gauge, I would run a basic test to ensure all cylinders are pretty equal...

If you don't have access to a compression gauge,
clear your DTCs and you can try swapping the ignition coil from cylinder #3 with the coil from cylinder #1 and see if your P0303 (misfire cyl #3 ) code becomes a P0301(misfire cyl. #1 ) code after driving it. If your code changes, It is probably a faulty ignition coil. If the P0303 code resets, clear the codes again and do a similar swap with the fuel injectors.
So basically...the P0303 code is the best clue you have to work with, so start your journey by focusing on things that deal with cylinder #3 first.
Thanks, i'll swap the coils tomorrow and give it a shot.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Here (attached) is the 2003 components diagram for 2RZ / 3RZ injectors ...
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
so would this be my procedure?
1. relive fuel pressure (loosen gas cap). any other relief needed?
2. remove parts to gain access to delivery pipe.
should i drain existing fuel in line at this point somehow?
3. remove delivery pipe bolts.
4. lift up pipe, swap 1 and 3, and re-insert.
5. reverse steps 3,2 1.

A new injector is $130, i know the whole "throw parts at it" approach is frowned upon but its leaning towards either a clogged FI or a stuck one.
 
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