Toyota Tacoma Forum banner

41 - 60 of 65 Posts

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,592 Posts
Have you tried swapping injectors between #2 and any other cylinder to see if the problem migrates with the injector?

Have you tried the same kind of swap-and-test with the #2 plug?

How much of your original engine did you have to transplant into / onto the replacement long block? (Please be specific.)

Have you checked your wiring / circuit between the ECT sensor and the ECM to make sure the ECM is getting a correct reading off the ECT?

You haven't mentioned the valves at all. Did you get a complete valve train with the long block? Have you checked the valves?

I'm kinda liking the head-gasket-blocking-something theory, but I hate to recommend removing the head just to check it (yet).

It's conceivable the thermostat functions perfectly when removed and subjected to the boiling water test, but it's somehow binding up when installed and isn't consistently opening as it should.

I'm still curious whether that 3RZ long block is a 1995.5 - 1997 engine. If it's a later Taco 3RZ (certainly if it's from a 2000 or later) it would probably be a functional mismatch with a 1997 ECM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
sorry it's a 5vzfe. no I havnt tried switching injectors yet I'm going to remove them and get bench tested. I'm about to do compression check now.
yes I have swapped coils and plugs. all injectors, coils and connectors passed ohm test.
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,592 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
#1 and 3 cylinder plugs are a lil white. 2 is carbon fouled bad. even insulator is black. no signs of tracks on boots or insulators.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
it's ok man. thanks for helping, I've been working this project hard for 2 months after work most days. no I haven't checked wires from ecm to ect. I need to study up how to do that on the ecm side
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,592 Posts
Thanks for the photo. It's pretty obvious there's something screwy with #2.
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,592 Posts
The differences in temperature among the cylinders makes me think there's a restricted flow or blockage in the coolant channels inside the head.

Before I'd go to the trouble of removing the head to check that theory, I think I'd remove the radiator and flow-test it to make sure the blockage isn't in the new radiator itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I just realized 2 and 5 both look black n sooty. I just checked resistance on coil. 1 ohm on primary. I'm plugging in compression tester now. one sec
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
this is my third radiator. got a 2nd one so I wouldn't risk the new block. it was faulty. returned. got a second (different brand) it flows
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,592 Posts
I was afraid of that ... Sorry to hear it ... At least now you know you need to dig into #2. I'd start with the valves.
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,592 Posts
ok I got the top two intake plenums off, and all the front stuff. so your saying check valve clearances before pulling heads?
I'd check the valve clearances first, just to confirm what's what - especially if you hadn't checked them prior to, or during, installation.

I'm not sure there's a single problem causing both the misfiring and the cooling weirdness. IMHO the valves are still "in play" as suspects relating to the misfiring aspect. This in turn connects to the possibility the misfiring and poor ignition on #2 and #5 may be the result of some kind of timing / coordination issue. If such an issue is "mechanical" rather than "electronic" in nature the valves may provide evidence for that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
thanks! IMHO I believe that the driver side gasket is flipped or maybe a passenger side one, which is blocking the ports causing the over heating problems. If those ports are blocked then i wouldnt doubt that the gasket is blown there from the heat. i will check clearances tomorrow before opening head then update you.
 
41 - 60 of 65 Posts
Top