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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
This is the current state of the epoxy on each wheel. I've put 3.5 tubes of the stuff on each wheel thus far. Of course, I will be sanding a lot of that off. I just prefer to have extra material to work with vs not having enough. 20210727_090352 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #343 · (Edited)
Started doing some work on mounting the push start button to the steering wheel. I took some basic measurements off the mount for the cruise control stalk on the IS wheel and made this simple mockup
20210728_175825 by Jose, on Flickr
The T section on this sticks out of the hole for the cruise control stalk, which allowed me to scribe a mark on it that follows the outer contour of the steering wheel surface at this point.

Measurements from that allowed me to create this piece, which doesn't follow the contour but does place a flat plate in the correct position to cover up the square opening for the stalk.
20210728_175830 by Jose, on Flickr

Once I was happy with the flat plate covering the hole properly, I used a contour gauge to determine the correct shape of that surface, traced the contour onto a sheet of paper, and then scanned that in to the computer. This allowed me to scale the contour in CAD and create this piece which matched the contour perfectly
20210728_175839 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
I knew all along that the cover plate was a little too tight to the surface and that last piece allowed me to determine by how much to move it out so it just sits flush. With that information, I designed this housing that mounts there and can hold the button.
20210728_175850 by Jose, on Flickr
You can see that it has a small pass through hole to allow for wires to be run
20210728_175907 by Jose, on Flickr

Here is the look from the front
20210728_175912 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #346 ·
Before I did that, I actually used the contour gauge to design sanding blocks that match the inner and outer contours of the steering wheel. The final pieces compensate for the thickness of the sandpaper and with sandpaper inserted, match the wheel contours perfectly.

Contour gauge
20210728_183103 by Jose, on Flickr

Inner profile sanding block
20210728_183121 by Jose, on Flickr

Test fit (no sand paper)
20210728_183201 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
I had to make a few adjustments to the upper portion of the button holder. Here are some pictures with the button in place. I plan to adjust the grooves inside so that the button is clocked with the letters horizontal. That, and I may shorten the height of the piece itself.

20210728_233107 by Jose, on Flickr

20210728_233124 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
Well, the shaping of the steering wheels has begun. The 3D printed sanding blocks and 80 grit paper make short work of this. I will still need to build up more epoxy and fill in some imperfections, but I love how it's coming out so far.
20210729_115351 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #350 ·
Didn't make much progress on the wheels this weekend; house took priority. Oh well, the lawn looks great and the clean sidewalks and driveway really make it pop lol. I did manage to add some more epoxy putty and get them sanded down though.
20210808_204102 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
Started the work of putting in the SC300 brake booster yesterday. The bolt pattern is exactly the same between the Tacoma and the SC booster. I knew this beforehand due to measurements I took within the footwell of my truck, however that is a tight space and I had some worries they might be slightly off.

As you can see, the gasket off the Tacoma booster transfers to the SC booster perfectly
20210810_174022 by Jose, on Flickr

20210810_174034 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #352 ·
Unfortunately, there are some key differences between the two boosters. One, the SC booster is larger in diameter and getting it installed means removing the line from your clutch master to the clutch slave (as it is in the way) and scuffing the booster on the intake manifold. That's not the biggest issue though.

If you look carefully at this picture, you will notice the hole for the shaft to the brake pedal is offset toward the lower mounting holes. This is true of the SC as well, except it is inverted vs the Tacoma. This means that the SC booster must be upside down in order to be installed in the Tacoma. As a result, the tube for the vacuum line ends up facing down and will require a new hose in order to work.
20210810_213404 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #353 ·
Just spoke to my friend who did this and it turns out he has his right side up. Granted, his truck was automatic at the time he did this, so there was less stuff in his way. His motor was in at the time (it's out in this picture) so I can only assume that he still had to struggle with the booster scraping against the intake manifold on the way in.
IMG-20210811-WA0004 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #354 ·
Well, no matter what I tried, I could not get this thing to go in right side up. Even though I was able to get it past the intake manifold by wiggling the lines sitting below the booster, the shaft was hitting the upper side of the hole in the firewall
20210811_184058 by Jose, on Flickr
20210811_184045 by Jose, on Flickr

You can see here where the shaft would strike
20210811_184719 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #355 ·
Due to this issue, I decided to just install it upside down. Since a brake booster works by vacuum and not gravity, I can't see how it would matter. I simply bought some 3/8" aka 9.5mm fuel hose at the local autoparts and ran it from the intake manifold to the booster.
20210812_103621 by Jose, on Flickr

The most complex part is running the hose under these hardlines and onto the booster. If I were to do this again, I would install the fuel hose before dropping the booster in.
20210812_103631 by Jose, on Flickr

I test fit the master cylinder just to ensure the new vacuum hose won't be in the way. Looks like it will work perfectly.
20210811_203142 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
It's hard to tell from the picture of my friend's install, but he left the brake line tee that was originally bolted to the Tacoma master/booster loose. This is a bad idea, Toyota bolted these down for a reason. Over time, the lines attached to that tee could fracture from all the vibrations. It won't fit the new master, but with a little widening of the center and some cuts to the bolt holes, you can make it work.
Here you can see how it doesn't fit
20210812_163719 by Jose, on Flickr

Here's how I modified it (I also painted it black so it doesn't rust where I cut it).
20210813_132851 by Jose, on Flickr

Here is the fit now. Note that you don't want to modify it so the bolts align better as you would be tugging on the brake lines that go to that tee.
20210813_132952 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #357 ·
Well, I spent most of today working on this project. I couldn't get a gasket for the brake master cylinder locally, so I decided to make my own. I noticed the one that came off the Tacoma booster was literally a waxy sheet of paper. Knowing that, I took measurements off the back of the master cylinder and then ran through three iterations of 3D printed parts. This was to create a proper gasket stencil. From there, I traced it out onto a sheet of thick paper and cut my gasket out with an Xacto knife. It fit perfectly and the only purpose of this gasket (that I can tell) is to isolate the aluminum master cylinder and steel booster from corroding each other (galvanic corrosion).
20210814_195950 by Jose, on Flickr

I ended up bending a couple of custom lines to replace the front and rear hard lines, mainly because I worried the factory ones might be compromised once I bent them to meet the SC master cylinder. Unfortunately, the bottom fitting on the rear line will not spin separately from the line and this means that the whole line has to be spun and collide with things until it comes undone. The spare one I took from a junkyard Tacoma was exactly the same situation (except that truck didn't have a motor so it was easier to pull off). I ended up just running a custom front line as the rear also fit up without too much issue/compromising its structure.
20210814_202403 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #358 ·
I added fluid to the master cylinder and added some paper towels below the fittings (I always bleed at the fittings that meet the master before I start on the brakes themselves). I'd had enough for one day though, so I will do the bleeding tomorrow.
20210814_212418 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
Ended up not doing anything today. I needed a break lol. Actually, I did manage to do more sanding on the steering wheel project. That, and I cut the grooves that are used to tuck the carbon fiber and the upholstery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
Well, that rear line ended up leaking at the fitting. I was initially scared that the thread in the master was done for, but I decided to bend up a new line and try it anyway. So, I bent up a new line and zero leaks this time! I'm ecstatic to finally be able to bleed these brakes! Getting that line right was a major PITA! The only line available at the autoparts that was long enough was like 7" too long and I had to add extra coils to shorten it sufficiently. However, the coils had to be smaller diameter lest I remove too much length. Then, getting it to line up right at the master was a whole project. Basically, I had to take the line in and out of the truck and make adjustments like 100 times.
20210817_191436 by Jose, on Flickr

20210817_191445 by Jose, on Flickr

20210817_192510 by Jose, on Flickr
 
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