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Discussion Starter · #321 ·
The other thing I got at the junkyard is this SC300 brake booster. I am going to be swapping my master cylinder out for an SC300 one, but doing so requires you use the SC booster as well. I ordered the master cylinder from Rockauto, since I wouldn't be confident running a master cylinder from the junkyard (that and I hate yellowed out brake reservoirs).

20210626_205222 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Just curious ... What made you look into the SC300 brake gear swap-out? That's a new one on me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #323 ·
Well, I finally felt confident enough in the curing of the epoxy on the hood. So, I took the hood outside and sanded it down. Starting from 180, then moving on to 220, 400, 600, 800,1000, 1200, and 1500 on the epoxy itself got the thick epoxied surfaces down flat and even. Then, I did a final finish sanding on the entire hood. I wanted to go with 1500, but had run out, so the final finish sand is at 2000 grit.

20210627_145127 by Jose, on Flickr

You can see how flat the epoxied areas are now
20210627_145803 by Jose, on Flickr

20210627_163156 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #325 ·
Just curious ... What made you look into the SC300 brake gear swap-out? That's a new one on me.
So, my friend Antonio (who I helped with the ATS brakes and the automatic to manual conversion) did that on his truck. His friend Daine has a 2JZ swapped Tacoma that is supposedly around 900 hp and he also has the ATS brakes and some sort of rear disc conversion. Daine converted to the SC master cylinder in order to push enough fluid to actuate his rear brakes. Now, I spoke to Mike (MJBTaco) recently and he tells me his friend has the ATS brakes with a rear disc setup (littleshop mfg) and can lock up his brakes just fine with the stock master. However, since my master seems to be on its way out and I have ZL1 rear calipers that are going on the truck as well, I figured I should upgrade. The SC booster was cheap at the junkyard and the master off rock auto isn't bad either. The SC master looks exactly like the Supra TT master, so I imagine it should be able to handle my setup.
 

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Sounds good ... Thanks for the explanation ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #328 ·
Well, I got the mesh glued on with some plastic bonder epoxy. Same stuff I used to glue the mesh on my Miata's hood.

I had the hood upside down and supported with 2x4s so it would sit off the surface of the work table.
20210629_184948 by Jose, on Flickr

The epoxy was mixed and spread all over the inner edge, followed by placing the mesh down and adding weights to keep it in place. I used some cuts of wood to distribute the load from the weights.
20210629_184954 by Jose, on Flickr

Some epoxy came through the other side and will need to be cleaned up, but overall, I am happy with the outcome
20210629_213015 by Jose, on Flickr

Almost time to clear coat this hood!
20210629_213111 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #329 ·
My SC master is finally here! Time to paint and refresh the booster, and then this sucker is going on the truck! The most complex part is going to be bending the lines, since the SC master has the lines on the opposite side.

It's a cool looking, dual cylinder arrangement. I expect this will handle all my 4 wheel disc braking needs lol.
20210630_130709 by Jose, on Flickr

20210630_130705 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #330 ·
I started freshening up a couple of things before putting them on the truck. As per usual, there is no way anything with rust is going on my truck. So, I sanded down the SC300 brake booster and then painted it with self-etching primer. I followed that up with a coat of Rust Reformer and am planning to finish it off with a urethane Black Sand Pearl and clear coat.
20210704_174431 by Jose, on Flickr

I also removed the silver trims from the IS300 steering wheels that I have. I wet sanded those down to about 600 grit and then did self etching primer, more sanding, and about three coats of VHT roll bar and chassis black. They look much better in the semi-gloss black than they did in the faded, factory silver. I also generally detest silver plastic. If you want something to look like metal, just use metal lol.
20210703_173419 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #331 ·
Here's a quick comparison on the difference in appearance:

Before:
20210618_165957 by Jose, on Flickr

After:
20210703_173412 by Jose, on Flickr

Now I just need to redo the leather on all of them. I have like 7 of these steering wheels in total, three Supra ones and four IS300 ones(steering wheel buttons). Re-wrapping steering wheels has apparently become another one of my weirdo hobbies lol. I just love the transformation once they are all freshly leathered out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #332 ·
All this messing around with steering wheels has me wanting to build something custom. I am thinking something a little wild, like flat bottom and flat top. Something like the MS paint mockup I have below, just with the corners more rounded, and possibly with some Carbon fiber.
THeory by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
One thing I don't like about the IS300 steering wheel buttons is having to push one in front and one in back of the wheel. I am thinking of building custom buttons that go up front. It will look something like this:

20210722_152406 by Jose, on Flickr

Up close
20210722_152411 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #334 ·
I also thought it would be cool to add a push start button to the steering wheel, like what Audi and Ferrari do. I have placed a poor MS paint concept of what I am going for below. Just need to imagine it with carbon fiber in place of the alcantara parts.
Steering wheel idea by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Just my .02 ...

(1) Personally, I don't like odd-shaped steering wheels (anything with a profile other than a full circle). Here's why ... If I'm having to do some rapid hand-over-hand turning of the wheel (e.g., dealing with a spin or slide) the last thing I want is to have to hunt for the steering wheel's rim / grip because it's not where my hand is already placed. 'Yoke' style wheels modeled like aircraft control yokes look cool, but ... Pilots don't have to turn them full circle or have a need for reliable hand-over-hand grip-ability.

(2) Personally, I don't like the idea of having a switch that could kill the engine mounted on a steering wheel that I may be wrestling to keep control of the vehicle. It would only take a single errant thumb or finger to hit the switch and make a tricky situation much worse.

Of course - YMMV.
 
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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
...and so it begins... I drew a line on the bottom of two of the wheels I have and scored them with a cut off wheel. From there, I went ahead and cut through with a band saw. Here is the result of that
20210724_190633 by Jose, on Flickr

From there, I did some finishing work using a belt sander
by Jose, on Flickr
20210724_203140 by Jose, on Flickr
Not that it really needs to be perfect right now. I still have to build up and round out the cross section of the flat portion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #337 · (Edited)
Just my .02 ...

(1) Personally, I don't like odd-shaped steering wheels (anything with a profile other than a full circle). Here's why ... If I'm having to do some rapid hand-over-hand turning of the wheel (e.g., dealing with a spin or slide) the last thing I want is to have to hunt for the steering wheel's rim / grip because it's not where my hand is already placed. 'Yoke' style wheels modeled like aircraft control yokes look cool, but ... Pilots don't have to turn them full circle or have a need for reliable hand-over-hand grip-ability.

(2) Personally, I don't like the idea of having a switch that could kill the engine mounted on a steering wheel that I may be wrestling to keep control of the vehicle. It would only take a single errant thumb or finger to hit the switch and make a tricky situation much worse.

Of course - YMMV.
All very good points. Amusingly, I have no trouble with spinning out thanks to all the autocross I've done (I also spun my truck on the way to work one morning, a few years back). The Camaro has a flat bottom from the factory and I spun it on one of the first autocrosses I took it to. I really didn't notice any difference as far as the shape goes. You can see me start to spin and then quickly save it on my third run in this video:

Definitely agree about the engine start, I plan to offset it a ways back so it's harder to hit by mistake, although in my case, it will just be to avoid cranking the starter. I will likely have an S2000 style push start where you still use the key (same setup I did in the Miata).
 

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Discussion Starter · #338 ·
Alright, I went and got myself some epoxy putty by JB Weld and got to work. I basically comes as a tube that more or less looks like clay and there is a white epoxy inside a beige colored one. You knead the clay until it becomes one uniform color and then apply it wherever you want. It really reminds me of wood filler. It does dry rock solid with a sort of plastic feel.

This is the result after two tubes of the stuff. I will definitely have to build up more of it on the bottom. The second tube I applied on this one seemed a little old and it got really hot and dried out too quickly.
20210725_184438 by Jose, on Flickr

The other two tubes I used on the other wheel did a better job, and I improved my technique a bit. This will still need me to add more later.
20210725_184453 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #339 ·
Here they are with a center cover just to get an idea of how the final product will look
20210725_184527 by Jose, on Flickr

20210725_184516 by Jose, on Flickr

There will be quite a bit of sanding work to do in order to get them both to look the same lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #340 ·
My push start button finally arrived. It is a little smaller in diameter than I expected, but not a deal breaker as I intend to print a bit of a shroud around it.
20210726_212839 by Jose, on Flickr

Here's a little mockup of how I plan to set it up
20210726_213015 by Jose, on Flickr
 
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