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Discussion Starter · #221 ·
Video of me putting the short shifter in
 

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Discussion Starter · #223 ·
As promised, here is the video of my impressions after driving the truck with the short shifter
 

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Discussion Starter · #226 ·
Did a quick video with some highlights of upcoming mods. I think you guys will like this stuff. Check it out below:
 

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Discussion Starter · #227 ·
Started to accumulate more parts for my 8.8 axle swap. Unfortunately, the supply shortages that are appearing as of late are hindering my progress. In particular, it is hard to get 8.8 replacement clutches and I really don't want to use the ones in my diff as I don't know how good they are. I will have to measure each pack and see how thick it is. I suppose if they are above the 0.635" minimum thickness, I can leave them in. Stock is 0.645" and performance ones (what I wanted) are >0.655" and would result in a tighter differential. So far, I have the 8.8, Evo 8 rear rotors, ZL1 rear Brembo calipers, and Permatex Gear Oil Gasket maker. The diff fluid, friction modifier, and u-bolts are on their way.

The pile of new parts so far:
20210317_174947 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #228 ·
The parts keep piling up for the 8.8 swap. I took the diff apart earlier and checked the thickness of the clutch pack, it is only at 0.604," so I will definitely have to order a new set.
by Jose, on
 

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Discussion Starter · #229 ·
Just ordered the clutches and a Spicer 2-2-1379 flange yoke as I cannot find my Ford Ranger one for the life of me smh. Getting this done will require a Toyota to 1310 U-joint. Spicer 721-X works, but is obsolete, and the PTI 1351-31 also works, but is on backorder. I may have to piece one together...
 

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Discussion Starter · #230 ·
Turns out that the PTI U-joint is on backorder, but one company happened to have 4 in stock. So, I put in the order for the last piece of the puzzle and expect to do this swap soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #231 ·
I got the clutches and flange yoke in this weekend. I ended up with the standard material Ford Performance clutches because the carbon ones seem to be on a world wide backorder. The standard material clutch kit is the M-4700-B whereas the carbon ones are M-4700-C. Oh well, the standard are considerably more affordable and will probably last forever on my lightweight Tacoma; they are designed for much heavier Mustangs and Explorers.

Here are the two boxes with the part numbers listed:
20210323_101851 by Jose, on Flickr

This is the Spicer flange yoke
20210323_101831 by Jose, on Flickr

Here are the new clutches (these look a good bit thicker than the worn ones I got out of my axle)
20210323_101722 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #233 ·
Ordered an aluminum battery hold down from Coupe, it will look a lot like the one below:

Mine will just be gloss black. I've literally been wanting this for years. I thought to either adapt one meant for another car or make my own, but once I saw these from Coupe, I knew it was exactly what I needed. I put in the order and it should be arriving to me tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #235 ·
I'm happy to see that you're still modifying and advancing forward on your build brother.. :love:
Looking killer! :p
Thank you Chris! I may very well keep building this thing forever lol!
 

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Discussion Starter · #236 ·
Caught a screw in one of my tires, so I took advantage and made a quick video on how to plug it. I can't tell you how many people I know that have no idea how to do this and end up needing a tow when they could have plugged the tire and been on their way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #237 ·
Alright! My u-joint came in yesterday and with that, I have the final piece of the 8.8 puzzle! Now I need to start fabricating the brackets to hold the Brembo calipers to the axle and then move on to the full installation!
20210324_160456 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #238 ·
I'm not known for my patience when it come to having a stack of parts ready to go on a car. So, I got to work right away. This is simultaneously an 8.8 swap and rear disc conversion. Now, if I wanted to take the easy way out, there would be no science to it. Simply buy the 8.8 axle with the discs and calipers on it and get a standard to metric adapter to make the brake lines work. However, me being me, I just had to go the hard route and go with the Evo rear rotors and Brembo ZL1 calipers. Now, the stock studs on the 8.8 are too thick to go through the stud holes in the Evo rotor. They are also the wrong thread and I do not want different stud threads front to rear. I intend to adapt my extended studs into these axles. For now however, I just needed a way to hold the rotor on the axle so I could fab brackets to hold the calipers on. In order to make that happen, I measured the larger heads on the Explorer studs and designed a stud that has that size head, but with a 12 mm diameter like an M12 stud. I them 3D printed three of them, just enough to hold my rotor in place.

Here are the studs:
20210325_204153 by Jose, on Flickr

From here, I placed the studs in the axle
20210325_204222 by Jose, on Flickr

Then, I put on the rotor
20210325_204427 by Jose, on Flickr

Finally, I mocked up the caliper
20210325_204612 by Jose, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #239 ·
Now, the rotor needs to be held by hand as there is no nut on the stud to hold it in place. I could print studs with threads and add a nut. Or, I could take advantage of the threaded holes the rotor has (that are intended to help remove the rotor if it seizes in place). I took advantage while I had it all together and marked the hold locations on to the axle face, such that I could drill them for this purpose. If the axles prove too hard to drill, then I will design threads into the studs and print threaded ones.
 
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