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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I took my truck in for an alignment and was shown that my lower control arm rear bushing was worn and had too much play to allow for alignment. They said that I would have to buy the whole LCA, and I couldnt replace just the bushing...Well that was about $650 installed....So I am hoping someone can confirm if this is the only way...dont want to drop that $ if there is a more economical way.

Thanks in advance!

2006 DC 4X4 LB
 

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I dont know if the lower arm bushings can be replaced. A person I would recommend contacting would be beefedtaco on here or check over at tacomaworld.com there are more 05+ prerunners/4x4's over there
 

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Heres a link for just the bushing http://www.toyotapartsales.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=214074&chapter=&sectionids=19,2512&groupid=10023&subgroupid=20090&componentid=60181&make=34&model=Tacoma&year=2006&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

I took my truck in for an alignment and was shown that my lower control arm rear bushing was worn and had too much play to allow for alignment. They said that I would have to buy the whole LCA, and I couldnt replace just the bushing...Well that was about $650 installed....So I am hoping someone can confirm if this is the only way...dont want to drop that $ if there is a more economical way.

Thanks in advance!

2006 DC 4X4 LB
 

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I did them on my Tacoma and just got done doing them on my 4Runner about 2 weeks ago. They really arent that bad, you need basic tools, a sawzall and I use an air hammer to get the old bushings out. You may not need the sawzall but I had to use it to cut the escentric cams out because they were seized in the bushing, if your escentrics arent seized this job should be a walk in the park.

1, Jack the truck up and support it with a jack stand on the frame rail.
2, Pull the tire.
3, Remove the lower bolt holding the strut to the control arm.
4, Remove the tie rod end and sway bar end link.
5, Remove the 4 bolts holding the LCA to the spindle.
6, Mark where the adjustment cams are to get the alignment some what close until you get it back to the alignment shop.
7, Remove the 2 LCA mounting bolts, 19 on the nut side and 22 on the bolt side, then remove the escentric cam and the arm will come out.

It's going to depend on whether you get full bushings with the outer metal jacket or just the rubbers for the next step.

If you get the whole bushing, the easiest way I've found is to heat the rubber a little and knock the rubber out of the outter metal shell with the air hammer and then knock the metal shell seperately with the air hammer. Then you just clean the hole up a little with some sand paper, grease it a little and slam the new bushing assembly in with a block of wood and BFH :eek: or use a press if you have one handy.

If you're only doing the rubber, remove the washer from one end, take the sleave out of the bushing, heat the rubber and knock it out, clean it up and push the new rubber in, put the sleave back in and press the washer back in. I honestly think its easier to just do the whole bushing because you dont have to worry about messing up the washers or the sleaves when you do it this way.

Then reverse the steps putting it back together. :waytogo: Let me know if any of that doesnt make sense and I'll try to clarify.

Edit: Well I'm glad I waited until I typed this all out before checking what year your truck is. Everything I just told you is for the 95.5-04 Tacoma and 96-02 4Runner but it should be pretty close.
 

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I took my truck in for an alignment and was shown that my lower control arm rear bushing was worn and had too much play to allow for alignment. They said that I would have to buy the whole LCA, and I couldnt replace just the bushing...Well that was about $650 installed....So I am hoping someone can confirm if this is the only way...dont want to drop that $ if there is a more economical way.

Thanks in advance!

2006 DC 4X4 LB
i work in a shop... sometimes the cost of complete part replacement is less than the press labor required to replace the bushing. and some bushings damage really easy when being pressed in. there is a company called DORMAN, the make aftermarket parts (suspension, window regulators, etc) and are not half bad. their control arms are insome cases better than OEM
 

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Fatalaczach -

Good write-up! Just one question:

When I installed new struts a couple weeks ago (1998 Tacoma, Bilstein struts) I had a helluva time lining up the lower strut eye with its mount on the LCA, on both sides. Basically the LCA was not low enough (the strut was fully extended) and I had to pry/clamp/guide-pin/curse before I finally got the bolts in. Did you do anything special to help yourself with this?

Some folks suggested using the stock jack to push the UCA (and consequently the LCA down, others seemed not to have such an alignment problem.
 

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Fatalaczach -

Good write-up! Just one question:

When I installed new struts a couple weeks ago (1998 Tacoma, Bilstein struts) I had a helluva time lining up the lower strut eye with its mount on the LCA, on both sides. Basically the LCA was not low enough (the strut was fully extended) and I had to pry/clamp/guide-pin/curse before I finally got the bolts in. Did you do anything special to help yourself with this?

Some folks suggested using the stock jack to push the UCA (and consequently the LCA down, others seemed not to have such an alignment problem.
The stock bottle jack on top of the UCA against the wheel well is the best way I have found, you can also loosen the bolts that hold the LCA in place to relieve some pressure to help you move the assembley down. As for getting the strut eye lined up with the bolt tabs I just put a long punch through the eye and twist it to where it looks close enough to line up, that usually gets it close enough to smack the bolt through.
 
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