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Discussion Starter #1
I KNOW theres been alot of questions about BJ flips, and i've read all i can on here, but i'm still kinda confused on what is actaully flipped and what is bolted where. I had thought for awhile you just rebolt the BJ's to the top of the control arms, but i know its not that simple. Im a visual person, so if someone could post some pics on the bj before and after the flip for me to compare, that'd be great.

I'm hoping to try this in the next week or so
 

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It's pretty much as simple as you think it is. Be sure to use all grade 8 hardware and you'll probably need a washer or two i addition to the two bolts to act as spacers like in the second and third link below.

There's some ok pics and overall instructions in the DJM installation instructions here... http://www.customtacos.com/tech/index.php?article=17

The first two pics in this thread really show it http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72541&highlight=flip

also the pics toward the bottom of the page here http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66425&page=2&highlight=grade+hardware
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
so theres no actual "flip" in a BJ flip? wierd

ok, since i can't get under my truck right now, how many/what size bolt do i need so i can upgrade them while i'm doing the flip. O, and nuts and bolts too

and also, with just a straight flip with out the DJM arms to fix camber, is the tire wear affect a whole lot?
 

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Factory spec is .6 degrees of camber according to the computer at the alignment shop but I was only able to get it set to -1 degree with all shims removed. They added a thin shim on the bolt closest to the front on the passenger side in order to fix the caster.
 

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humanmachinehead said:
so theres no actual "flip" in a BJ flip? wierd

ok, since i can't get under my truck right now, how many/what size bolt do i need so i can upgrade them while i'm doing the flip. O, and nuts and bolts too

and also, with just a straight flip with out the DJM arms to fix camber, is the tire wear affect a whole lot?
I used 1/2" grade 8 bolts. If I remember correctly their a hair big, so just use a drill and drill it to 1/2" which just takes a second because the sizes are so close. As far as the length you can just get them a little longer then your factory hardware, but I got mine over a half an inch longer to gain more drop in order to lay out on a bigger wheel. I am only referring to the lower ball joints. I didn't flip the upper ball joints.

As far as the camber and caster is concerned just make sure you get it aligned after you do it. It will probably make a big difference in the frontend, which will eat up your tires. Trust me, it will!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
KANE said:
I used 1/2" grade 8 bolts. If I remember correctly their a hair big, so just use a drill and drill it to 1/2" which just takes a second because the sizes are so close. As far as the length you can just get them a little longer then your factory hardware, but I got mine over a half an inch longer to gain more drop in order to lay out on a bigger wheel. I am only referring to the lower ball joints. I didn't flip the upper ball joints.

As far as the camber and caster is concerned just make sure you get it aligned after you do it. It will probably make a big difference in the frontend, which will eat up your tires. Trust me, it will!
the balljoint flip will eat up my tires, or not having the alignment?
 

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Just take all the shims out behind the upper arms and adjust the toe enough to where the wheels aim straght ahead and then go get an alignment.
 

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It's the simplest thing in the world, move b/j's to top of arms, remove alignment shims, take tapemeasure and do "home" toe. Toe it in 1/8" to 1/4" in front. PM me if you need, I'll give ya' a complete rundown.
 

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humanmachinehead said:
the ball joint flip will eat up my tires, or not having the alignment?
There's nothing wrong with doing the ball joint flip. Its the easiest way to gain 2-3" in drop. This will only be hard on tires if you don't get it aligned. You could probably get it pretty close doing it yourself. As far as taking out all your shims, some say remove all the shims but mine didn't require pulling out all the shims to get it straight. It just depends on how straight your frontend is. I recommend taking it to a professional.
 

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KANE said:
There's nothing wrong with doing the ball joint flip. Its the easiest way to gain 2-3" in drop. This will only be hard on tires if you don't get it aligned. You could probably get it pretty close doing it yourself. As far as taking out all your shims, some say remove all the shims but mine didn't require pulling out all the shims to get it straight. It just depends on how straight your frontend is. I recommend taking it to a professional.
absolutely take it to a professional for alignment, but go ahead and pull the upper arm shims and do the home toe adjustment to get it decent enough to drive to get the alignment, mine was in such bad shape without doing a 'home alignment' first that the 10 miles to the alignment shop pretty much killed my front tires, so pull the shims and adjust the toe before you drive it at all
 

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OGSpacePimp said:
absolutely take it to a professional for alignment, but go ahead and pull the upper arm shims and do the home toe adjustment to get it decent enough to drive to get the alignment, mine was in such bad shape without doing a 'home alignment' first that the 10 miles to the alignment shop pretty much killed my front tires, so pull the shims and adjust the toe before you drive it at all
I'll agree with you there. I didn't do that and I had to drive even farther and completely ruined my front tires, but fortunetly I was rolling on stocks and didn't care. Definitely, get it close and then take it to a shop.
 
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