How much exactly is a regear to 4.88 ?
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I know that in Hawaii a regear is about $1000 for parts and labor.
The regear kit should cost about $300-450. It depends on what brand and which kits you buy.
The regear kit should cost about $300-450. It depends on what brand and which kits you buy.
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352 Posts
I would personally recommend going with 5.29s. . . . I'm running 37"s with 5.29s and a V6 and it still feels bogged down compared to when it was stock. . .I debated between 5.29s and 4.88s for a long time and I'm definitely glad I went with 5.29s. . . .
Oh yeah, and the regear for the rear was $230 gears & seals + $100 labor at Inchworm. . . .
Oh yeah, and the regear for the rear was $230 gears & seals + $100 labor at Inchworm. . . .
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352 Posts
Yeah, I know. . . I must of looked at about 7 of those tables and they all say the same thing -- that I'm supposed to go with 4.88s. . . . But all I can say is that for some reason even 5.29s are giving me a slight lag. Before I used to be able to punch the gas and skirch my wheels. It's almost impossible to skirch my wheels now . . . Granted when I punch it I do feel a nice boost, but not the same as when everything was stock. . .
Of course, I have to admit that there are a lot of factors that go into this. For example, I switched from all-terrains to mud-terrains which probably have more traction and prevent skirching. . . .I also have more weight due to heavier tires like you said, dual t-cases, rock sliders, and a front axle. . . So overall the truck has to push a lot more . . .
I guess it all comes down to your application. . . . For pgrah1986, try to your best to predict how you'll want your truck to end up so that you don't have to regear again later. . . For example, if you think that eventually you'll move to 37s, add nerf bars or rock sliders, put an aftermarket bumper or bumper guard, or maybe even go with dual t-cases. . . all that extra weight is going to make a difference. Especially with a 2.7, 4cyl.. . . I figured I would just do it all in one shot so I don't waste money later. . . .
Of course, I have to admit that there are a lot of factors that go into this. For example, I switched from all-terrains to mud-terrains which probably have more traction and prevent skirching. . . .I also have more weight due to heavier tires like you said, dual t-cases, rock sliders, and a front axle. . . So overall the truck has to push a lot more . . .
I guess it all comes down to your application. . . . For pgrah1986, try to your best to predict how you'll want your truck to end up so that you don't have to regear again later. . . For example, if you think that eventually you'll move to 37s, add nerf bars or rock sliders, put an aftermarket bumper or bumper guard, or maybe even go with dual t-cases. . . all that extra weight is going to make a difference. Especially with a 2.7, 4cyl.. . . I figured I would just do it all in one shot so I don't waste money later. . . .
I regeared to 4.88's and I'm only running 33's on my 4-Runner. I would go with 5.29's also especially with the 4-banger running 36's. I did an internet special at Randy's ring and pinion when I bought my Yukon gears. It was close $800 by the time I paid a shop to install them.
It was around 1000$ parts and labor here in utah. But i did help the shop do the work. I agree you will want 5.29's for the 36's and the 2.7. I have 35's with 4.88s and the charger+ urd kit. You have to remember all the extra weight from the tires, lift, and wheels. And the added wind drag from the extra hieght that will be needed to fit those tires. RED
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4 Posts
hey its mike with the big black yota from around where you live...we met at sheets about a month ago. i took my truck to pj's shop right after you pass owens on the left of 460...his shops on the right. he said he would charge me 600 to do the front and rear gears on my truck.
I know this is an old thread but pj’s shop is it in NH, MA, or NJ? I’m in NH and looking at getting these done.
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