Toyota Tacoma Forum banner

21 - 40 of 52 Posts

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
... Forgive my ignorance, but how do I run a temporary circuit. Just run a wire in the same place of the regular wire circuit opening wire (white with black stripe) and run it to ground... Is that correct?
Yeah - that's what I was driving at. If you run an alternative ground connection and everything works fine, that would demonstrate it's a wiring problem between the circuit opening relay and ground (a path which ties into the DLC3 wiring).

If you run a temporary ground and nothing changes, that would clearly demonstrate it's something other than the ground connection (the most obvious thing that interrelates the circuit opening relay and the DLC3 circuit).
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
I can't figure out where the Circuit opening relay is... any help? ...
Here (attached) is a diagram illustrating the location of the circuit opening relay.

It's up behind the dashboard in the cluster area. :doah:
 

Attachments

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
... I followed the ground wire the best I could and I ended at this recepticle (picture 2)... did I take a wrong turn somewhere? Is this supposed to be hooked up somewhere? cause it wasnt...
The ground lines (white with black stripe) for both the DLC3 connector and the circuit opening relay lead to the Cowl Wire and J/B 3 harness connector (which should be the connector you arrived at, shown in the second photo).

However ... That connection *should* be at or in Junction Block No. 3.

A third white / black wire should be coming off that same connector. That should be the ground line to ground point IE (somewhere around the starboard / passenger side of the dash reinforcement member.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The ground lines (white with black stripe) for both the DLC3 connector and the circuit opening relay lead to the Cowl Wire and J/B 3 harness connector (which should be the connector you arrived at, shown in the second photo).

However ... That connection *should* be at or in Junction Block No. 3.

A third white / black wire should be coming off that same connector. That should be the ground line to ground point IE (somewhere around the starboard / passenger side of the dash reinforcement member.
I have torn apart the dash and can not find where its supposed to plug in... you sure it plugs in somewhere... :doah:
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
I think the connector you arrived at interconnects the wires attached to it and that's all. In other words, I don't think the connector (as a whole) plugs into anything else.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Okay, here is a pic behind my cluster towards the back. The Circuit Opening Relay shown has 2 wires to the right that are white with black stripe...
1) Does it matter which one i go from?
2) Do I just pull it out and put another wire in for the ground?

thanks for your help,
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
Okay, here is a pic behind my cluster towards the back. The Circuit Opening Relay shown has 2 wires to the right that are white with black stripe...
Pic? What pic? :shrug:
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
On a 1999 2RZ there should be both black-with-white-stripe and white-with-black-stripe wires (1 of each) coming off the circuit opening relay. Check the engine control wiring diagram I posted earlier.

The white-with-black-stripe wire is the one leading to the ground connection (and the one which tees into the ground from the OBD2 connector).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
On a 1999 2RZ there should be both black-with-white-stripe and white-with-black-stripe wires (1 of each) coming off the circuit opening relay. Check the engine control wiring diagram I posted earlier.

The white-with-black-stripe wire is the one leading to the ground connection (and the one which tees into the ground from the OBD2 connector).
So you are saying to fix the problem I pull out the leaving one and put a new ground... correct?
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
So you are saying to fix the problem I pull out the leaving one and put a new ground... correct?
No ...

(1) First off, I'm saying your description of the wires attached to the thing you think is the circuit opening relay does not match the factory wiring diagram.

(2) Second ... If you go back and look at my earlier post(s), I've been asking you to establish a temporary ground connection from the circuit opening relay to test and see if your starting problem has to do with that shared ground line (shared between the relay and the OBD2 port).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
No ...

(1) First off, I'm saying your description of the wires attached to the thing you think is the circuit opening relay does not match the factory wiring diagram.

(2) Second ... If you go back and look at my earlier post(s), I've been asking you to establish a temporary ground connection from the circuit opening relay to test and see if your starting problem has to do with that shared ground line (shared between the relay and the OBD2 port).

K thanks for your help... Sorry about my lack of any electrical knowledge... I'm trying to learn... :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
OK so I found the place for the ground and the temporary ground didn't help.

NEW SYMPTOMS-

1) I never realized it before but since Ive had the heat on lately I did.
If I put the key in and attempt to start, it doesn't work, but when I take the key out the heater doesn't shut off. It continunes to run until I plug the code reader in, then it shuts off

2) airbag light also stays on when I take the key out after attempted start.

I really need to fix this issue. I'm not even sure if it is a ground problem. But it seems like it has to since its associated with code reader.

thanks for any help you can give
 

·
ADMlNAHATER
Joined
·
8,739 Posts
Ya thanks for the support there chris... I'll remember that. :(
I couldn't help it because I have no clue what your issue is, that was my
way of subscribing to your thread because I'd like to know whats going on.. :waytogo:

honestly, sorry man.. :drinking:
I know how frustrating it can be, you see a reply to your thread only to see...
a post from me :eek:

OK so I found the place for the ground and the temporary ground didn't help.

NEW SYMPTOMS-

1) I never realized it before but since Ive had the heat on lately I did.
If I put the key in and attempt to start, it doesn't work, but when I take the key out the heater doesn't shut off. It continunes to run until I plug the code reader in, then it shuts off

2) airbag light also stays on when I take the key out after attempted start.

I really need to fix this issue. I'm not even sure if it is a ground problem. But it seems like it has to since its associated with code reader.

thanks for any help you can give
Ignition switch?

Anything that you've touched concerning wiring, retrace your steps..

Something is giving those accessories power, does your radio stay on as well?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I couldn't help it because I have no clue what your issue is, that was my
way of subscribing to your thread because I'd like to know whats going on.. :waytogo:

honestly, sorry man.. :drinking:
I know how frustrating it can be, you see a reply to your thread only to see...
a post from me :eek:



Ignition switch?

Anything that you've touched concerning wiring, retrace your steps..

Something is giving those accessories power, does your radio stay on as well?
I thought it may have been the security system I had installed. But I don't know how to retrace HIS steps. But remote start does work when that module is plugged in and not when its unplugged.

The problem is that there isn't really anything for me to retrace. I havn't done any wiring for this install besides extending a few harnesses. That's why its frustrating.
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
OK so I found the place for the ground and the temporary ground didn't help.
OK. That should mean the problem isn't with the circuit opening relay circuit in and of itself ...

Which is is also demonstrated by the following ...



Josh Taco;1848505 NEW SYMPTOMS- 1) I never realized it before but since Ive had the heat on lately I did. If I put the key in and attempt to start said:
when I take the key out the heater doesn't shut off. It continunes to run until I plug the code reader in, then it shuts off[/B]

2) airbag light also stays on when I take the key out after attempted start.

I really need to fix this issue. I'm not even sure if it is a ground problem. But it seems like it has to since its associated with code reader. ...

(1) When you refer to 'heater', you mean the heater fan / blower - right?

(2) Does the heater fan switch have to be 'on' for the blower to be running? Or does it run even when the switch is set to 'off'?

(3) Does the SRS warning light (airbag) not come on until you insert the key and turn the ignition switch to the 'on' position (like normal)? What (if anything ...) makes the airbag light go 'off'?

(4) Turn the passenger airbag cutoff switch to the 'off' position, and see if that changes the airbag warning light behavior.

(5) Here (attached) are the SRS and HVAC circuit wiring diagrams.

(6) Yes - it could still be a ground issue. The heater blower switch and parts of the SRS system ground at ground point IE - the same exact ground point at issue earlier in this discussion.

(7) With this many components acting wacky, and some of them acting wacky with the ignition key removed, it's starting to look more like a significant short or cross-wiring problem than a ground problem alone.

(8) I hereby certify that the new information has elevated this from a probable minor glitch to a major FUBAR condition. :runaway:
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,662 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
OK. That should mean the problem isn't with the circuit opening relay circuit in and of itself ...

Which is is also demonstrated by the following ...






(1) When you refer to 'heater', you mean the heater fan / blower - right?

(2) Does the heater fan switch have to be 'on' for the blower to be running? Or does it run even when the switch is set to 'off'?no I can control if its on or off with the switch, thats why i didn't notice it before.

(3) Does the SRS warning light (airbag) not come on until you insert the key and turn the ignition switch to the 'on' position (like normal)? What (if anything ...) makes the airbag light go 'off'?it doesn't come on until the key is in and doesn't go off with key removed, but goes off after code reader plugged in.

(4) Turn the passenger airbag cutoff switch to the 'off' position, and see if that changes the airbag warning light behavior. the passenger airbag light is in the off position already

(5) Here (attached) are the SRS and HVAC circuit wiring diagrams.

(6) Yes - it could still be a ground issue. The heater blower switch and parts of the SRS system ground at ground point IE - the same exact ground point at issue earlier in this discussion.

(7) With this many components acting wacky, and some of them acting wacky with the ignition key removed, it's starting to look more like a significant short or cross-wiring problem than a ground problem alone.

(8) I hereby certify that the new information has elevated this from a probable minor glitch to a major FUBAR condition. :runaway:
So does that mean you are giving up on me!? what else can I do? should I just suck it up and take it to toyota? I just don't want to have to pay if I don't need to.

thanks for all your help randy. It's greatly appreciated.
 

·
Mambeau / Admin
Joined
·
47,867 Posts
So does that mean you are giving up on me!? what else can I do? should I just suck it up and take it to toyota? I just don't want to have to pay if I don't need to.

thanks for all your help randy. It's greatly appreciated.
It's not that I'm giving up on you ... It's that these latest symptoms pretty clearly mean there's a general wiring fault (short, bad connection, whatever ...) somewhere in the peculiarly rewired circuitry of your particular truck.

The only solid clues in what you've reported so far are:

(1) All the affected circuits use ground points IE and / or IG.
(2) The symptoms go away when the DLC3 connector is hooked up (and opens a ground link to IE and / or IG).

It seems clear the solution has to do with grounding. That doesn't necessarily mean the root problem is a matter of grounding alone. It could be any of a number of things such as:

- a fried or shorted component (possibly including the main fuse block and the ECM)
- bad connections / connectors
- mis-wired harnesses (the aftermarket wiring you've installed)
- a short or broken connection anywhere in any of the wiring associated with the affected circuits

Since there are aftermarket harnesses / wires / components involved, I can't decipher the symptoms' logic on the basis of OEM wiring. I can't even tell which wiring / circuits may be the problem (OEM versus aftermarket).

In my opinion, you're never going to get this sorted out until and unless you:

- start dismantling the electrical stuff you've installed, one piece at a time, until you find everything works as it should again (which probably, but not necessarily, indicates the last thing removed is the main problem).

And / Or ...

- start painstakingly testing the current flows on each and every one of the affected circuits (which means pretty much everything around your engine bay and dash area).

It could still be one single frayed wire, bent pin in a connector, bad ground, etc., etc. The point is that the faults affect so many different circuits (and so much wiring that's not even reflected in the OEM wiring diagrams) that I can't reasonably expect to diagnose it from a distance.

It's not a matter of electrical 'logic' for any similarly-configured Taco. It's a matter of electrical gremlin(s) in your specific Taco.
 
21 - 40 of 52 Posts
Top