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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, this is my new to me 97 taco. I am wanting to keep stock height but get a but more "spirited " drive. I noted my shocks are pretty soft (older kyb excel g - good for a car like ride when new) and my rear springs look dearched. I think it has carried this shell for 25 years. With keeping it stock height, what are my options? I'm thinking kyb mono max shocks, but what else? What's out there for reasonable cost? Whays the cheapest way to deal with rear springs? I'm just thinking aloud now. And appreciate the creative input
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Mambeau / Admin
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Do you intend to keep the shell / canopy on the bed? Its weight can make a difference, depending on which sort(s) of "spirited-ness" you're aiming for. If you're focused on spry get-up-and-go you might want to shed its weight (but you'll have to put up with a more skittish rear half). If you're focused on handling, its weight can help keep the rear end settled down.

The main thing that concerns me (in your description) is the soft rear suspension. I'd say new / stiffer shocks are the first step no matter what else you decide. In any case, it seems to me you can't finally evaluate the rear springs situation until you decide whether the shell stays and see how it sits with the new rear shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you intend to keep the shell / canopy on the bed? Its weight can make a difference, depending on which sort(s) of "spirited-ness" you're aiming for. If you're focused on spry get-up-and-go you might want to shed its weight (but you'll have to put up with a more skittish rear half). If you're focused on handling, its weight can help keep the rear end settled down.

The main thing that concerns me (in your description) is the soft rear suspension. I'd say new / stiffer shocks are the first step no matter what else you decide. In any case, it seems to me you can't finally evaluate the rear springs situation until you decide whether the shell stays and see how it sits with the new rear shocks.
I'm planning on keeping the shell. I was looking and it happen to have one and they are like 500$used and I kinda like the streamline look it gives. I'm looking at some monomax shocks but I am at a loss on the spring setup. Gonna run on these wheels and I know loosing some sidewall will assist in my level of control. The springs I am debating a stock type replacement but Deaver is not too far from my house but I know a custom leaf pac is like $600 or so.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I like your choice of new wheels. I am excited to see how this project will turn out.
Wheels are going to be painted black. There is enough damage on them to warrant repaint but not enough to splurge on professional refinish. My bro in law is bringing a pressure washer to start the clean up
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Shoes done. Next is brakes as far as appearance is concerned
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@Enola Gaia
Anyone know what size the bearing Caps are for the fronts? Can't find a listing. And if so. Is there a "short" option?
My wheel centers will not fit 😞
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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The center caps are one of those components Toyota never describes in any detail. In any case, they're usually marketed along with whatever aftermarket / alternative wheels one may use.

You never identified the wheels, so I have no idea what / whose center caps are supposed to fit up with them.

Did the wheels' OEM centerbore fit the taco hubs? Or were they modified to fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the wheel center caps. More specially the caps that cover the bearings to do a brake job. Did not find a direct listing even on dormanproducts.com
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Sorry ... I misinterpreted your earlier post and thought you were referring to the center caps (what with adding alternative wheels and all ... ).

If I understand correctly, you mean the 5-lug grease cap (part number 43514-35010-86). This is the only one shown for 1995.5 - 2000 5-luggers. It's completely different from the 6-lug version.

I can't find anything about the grease cap's size.

I'm not sure what you might do to get the center caps to fit up. I doubt there's any reasonable way to trim or cut the grease cap. Would it be possible to trim or cut the wheel center caps to fit?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When I Crack into it I'll let ya know. Gonna check size and see if someone makes a shorter cap (if that would work)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Auto part Automotive air manifold

Wheel Land vehicle Automotive parking light Tire Sky

So 2 weeks ago I did about 1200 miles.
Did a bit of underwood dress up and some more sound padding.
Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, full filter.
Added the led driving lights
Led cluster and hvac lights

before I left my last place of work I covered replacement of:
rotors, Calipers, pads, bearings, all syn fluids, trans output seal, ball joints. Tie rod ends, the wheels (g35) and tires (bridgestone turanza quiet track 215/45r17), monomax shocks, energy suspension front Sway bar bush and ends, some frame resto, shell 3rd brake lamp, led headlights, corner bulbs in front and license (the 194 bulbs was 10 for $10), stereo and sub, serioz sound padding.

Next ideas? Thinking: rear Sway bar, posi rearend(?), take dash out and sound pad the bulkhead/firewall, tint. Would like a header (stupid cali).
What else is out there? Toss me some suggestions (cheap is nice, budget for Goldy is "lite")
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh wise and powerful @Enola Gaia
You have part number/source for oe fitment switches for 97?
I have ordered some off Amazon that are "fitment guaranteed " that are being returned cuz they are out of 05+ size holes.
The rectangular ones on the dash panel like in the image?
Debating the 4x4 clutch bypass since I'm lazy sometimes and don't want to clutch to start. But I want a better switch for my driving lights then what came in the bag
as always much ♥ in advance
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Oh wise and powerful @Enola Gaia
You have part number/source for oe fitment switches for 97? ...
The rectangular ones on the dash panel like in the image?
Unfortunately, no ... The factory parts listings I have don't list the individual switches.

Debating the 4x4 clutch bypass since I'm lazy sometimes and don't want to clutch to start.
I'm confused as to what you're trying to do.

The clutch / start bypass switch is found on 4X4 models. It doesn't disengage the clutch to allow starting without pressing the pedal. It tricks the starter circuit into starting when the clutch pedal isn't depressed (when the clutch is still engaged; when the driver deliberately wants to bump or move the truck using only the starter as a motor).

I'm attaching the 1997 2RZ 5-lug starter wiring diagram. It shows a clutch start cancel switch, but it's only noted as being connected / used on non-US Tacos.

But I want a better switch for my driving lights then what came in the bag
Are you talking about aftermarket / non-OEM add-on lights?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have added aftermarket driving lamps and was hoping there may have been a switch or something in the parts catalogs .
The clutch cancel I know the newer prerunner/ 4x4 have the switch to bypass the interlock switch to start with clutch not pressed. I want to be able to start without having to press clutch to the floor.
I know there is few options did not know if someone had rolled across the switch size that fits the oe cutouts
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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The other problem with the driving lights switch is that even if you find an OEM switch it will probably have a graphic / logo / label that clashes with its use for driving lights.

I'd just measure the OEM knock-out hole and get an illuminated rocker switch that would fit. Aftermarket panel switches usually come with bezels to cover the edges of the hole and hide any gap caused by a size difference.
 
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