Front adj. anti-sway ?

footinmouth said:

I'm thinking about cutting my front anti-sway bar and welding on a tab with 3 holes for adjustment .I will toss those end link bushings and go with cro mo rod ends . Will the heat from welding change the bar ? or crack at the weld joint from a lot of stress due to hard driving / sticky tires ? Its an addco 1 3/16 and I'd like it to be just a little stiffer . Thanks, John

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Isolate the heat so it won’t travel down the bar, full penetration weld, ER-70 Rod, "DO NOT OVER HEAT THE MATERIAL", Polish & radius all welded joints. Yes you will lose HT at welded joint - no biggie - if you keep the heat isolated, the rest of the bar will not be affected. Let the weld cool on it’s own to room temp. After installation, check you bar periodically for stress cracks in the weld affected zone. Personally, I would x-ray the joint but don’t think it is necessary if you are a competent welder. It doesn’t cost me a dime though.
You could re-heat treat the bar which requires a little more involvement with materials, welding and you might have to make a jig to keep the bar from distorting. I think this is a little over kill for any moderate use application - Non Full Race / Abuse

John: I'm not clear on the adjustable setup you're proposing to try. Could you either describe this 'tab' in more detail, or maybe post a sketch? :thinking:

80-cu thanks for the info , I won't be welding it ,but its always good to have info to go over with my welder, In most cases he says the same thing the welders on here say. I've done a couple track days and plan to do more and adjusting it from road stock location to just a little tighter would help keep my tire on the ground in those high speed turns. I'm not sure if its the frame flexing or the anti-sway just at its limit . The adjustable rod ends will help if the bar gets a little twist. He also has a 2000 lbs work table and many long pipes to adjust a bar. Enola- The tab has 2 or 3 holes and creates a shorter leverage arm at the end link . The factory hole gets cut off and the tab gets welded into a notch at the end of the bar . I don't know how to post a pic , but if you google it many will come up . John

Randy, this is what he is referring too.

(just an example)

Selling my Saner front sway bar with modified Mcmaster Carr adjustable endlinks. The bar is 1.25" (32mm) solid three-way adjustable. The modified Mcmaster carr endlinks are much beefier than the ones that come with the Saner. The original Saner links had these cheeze ball spacers on them that were an issue with the bar. The McMaster Carr endlinks fixes that. A bigger front sway bar will provide more grip to the rear end and also help minimize oversteer issue which is common for Honda S2000 of all year. It will change the way your car handles. This comes with all brackets, spacers, bushings and all nuts and bolts for easy installation. Fits any 00-09 AP1, AP2 Honda S2000.

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SOURCE: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/pts/1610450344.html