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Discussion Starter #1
so, my bagged/body dropped '04 taco keeps blowing the 10 amp gauge fuse, then displaying the battery light and rr differential lock light on my dash panel, which kills all of my gauges (and fan and a/c),except the fuel level. this started not too long (an hour, or so) after running over road kill one night at highway speed. i was able to hear and feel it happen, and it was not pleasant. at first my battery drained out, so, thinking it was the alternator, it was replaced. every time this happens, my battery loses charge.



i am also showing a vehicle speed sensor code. fortunately, all of my components are functional (accuair and e-level, fan, a/c, temp gauge, fuel gauge, stereo system, etc...) once the fuse is replaced, though the odometer and speedometer have been only seen to work a couple of times when road testing.



a friend and i have had the truck up on stands numerous times, checking wires and such underneath, but we cannot seem to pinpoint the cause of the issue(s).



like the title reads, help is needed badly!
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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(1) What makes you think you have a locking differential? There was no factory locker available on 5-lug Tacos. Did the indicator that lit up say 'RR DIFF LOCK'? If not, what did the illuminated indicator display look like?

(2) Does this 2004 Taco have the optional VSC TRAC traction control? That would explain a lot, but I need to know if you've got VSC TRAC. With or without VSC TRAC I suspect you may have a short somewhere in your ABS system.

(3) Is this a manual or automatic?

(4) Are your backup lights and taillights working correctly?

(5) When the speedometer is intermittently working, does it seem to be reading correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
(1) What makes you think you have a locking differential? There was no factory locker available on 5-lug Tacos. Did the indicator that lit up say 'RR DIFF LOCK'? If not, what did the illuminated indicator display look like?

(2) Does this 2004 Taco have the optional VSC TRAC traction control? That would explain a lot, but I need to know if you've got VSC TRAC. With or without VSC TRAC I suspect you may have a short somewhere in your ABS system.

(3) Is this a manual or automatic?

(4) Are your backup lights and taillights working correctly?

(5) When the speedometer is intermittently working, does it seem to be reading correctly?

the light that comes on is "rr differential lock", in addition to the battery light. not claiming that i have a locking differential, but this light comes on, and is displayed solid, in bold red. no blinking or flickering.



as for vsc trac, i do not know, but i doubt it, as there is no button or switch or light indicating that i do (this is a 2wd, extra cab, sr5)



this is a manual transmission.


all rear lights work fine



as for the speedometer, when it works, it has seemed accurate, i guess, but i have not driven very far before the fuse has blown.



hope my response helps.



and thanks for reply. i was waiting for YOU to respond :)
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Thanks for the additional info. The fact that it's the RR DIFF LOCK lamp that lights up is a significant clue.

I'm assuming the Vehicle Speed Sensor code is a P0500 or P0503 (a safe bet, because these are the only 2 VSS-related codes).

These codes are thrown when there's a problem with the VSS signal, so they're likely to be electrical faults (unless the VSS itself is damaged, which is still a possibility).

The fact that the battery's draining means you've got a short circuit somewhere.

The 10A Gauge fuse powers a line (black with red stripe) that goes back to the VSS. This provides the power for the VSS to signal the instrument cluster control circuit. It's _not_ the line that transmits the signal(s) between the VSS and the cluster.

Both the power line from the 10A Gauge fuse and the two signal lines connecting the VSS to the cluster run through the IK2 connector, which is located above the glove box behind the starboard side of the dash.

The simplest explanation I can think of is that:

- your VSS is damaged or shorting out
AND / OR
- you've got a short in the wiring leading from the VSS to the cluster via the IK2 connector.

NOTE: THIS IS NOT THE ONLY POSSIBLE EXPLANATION; IT'S JUST THE SIMPLEST ONE.

Damage to the VSS and / or its connected wiring would be consistent with running over the roadkill.

I'm attaching the engine control, cluster, and rear differential lock wiring diagrams to illustrate the wiring connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thank you, again, for your response. the p0500 code is the one that is showing, and i had already ordered a vss, and it should be in my mailbox right now.

am hoping for a quick and easy solution (beyond the hours already spent, thus far)...


again...THANKS!!
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Please be sure to post back on whether a VSS swap fixes the problems.

If it doesn't, the problem is almost certainly in your wiring, and that's gonna be complicated to untangle.

At first I thought your ABS system had damage or a short somewhere, but you didn't mention the ABS warning light coming on.

For the time being, I'm assuming the battery drain and speed / fuse issues are all results of one fault. This may end up not being the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, it's seeming like my short issue has FINALLY been resolved. After changing out the VSS, there was no longer a code showing for that, though the short still existed. After that, we started jiggling some wires with a fresh fuse in, and had no definitive indication that that was blowing the gauge fuse. After more wiring inspection, my buddy started thinking that the clutch action might be the culprit, so he went ahead and inspected the wires around the clutch pedal, and decided to try moving and tying them away from it, and wrapping them in electrical tape. After a nice, long (15 mile?) ride, the fuse never blew, so I am hoping and hoping that that was the case, as we had never ridden more than a mile without the fuse blowing.


As for the VSS, I am thinking that it might have been showing inaccurate speeds for quite a long time, as I don't think that the speed we were traveling on the highway was accurate, but inflated due to 18" with low profile tires, which has always been the case for me and my lowered vehicles.



Anyway, again, thanks for your responses and, wish me luck!!
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Glad to hear you seem to have got it resolved ...

... and good luck! :evil:
 

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thank you, again, for your response. the p0500 code is the one that is showing, and i had already ordered a vss, and it should be in my mailbox right now.
 

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I can only suggest that you should find a reputable and well-trusted electrician. Though all the advice here is good, still, it would be much easier for you if you have someone with you to help you in your car's issues.
 
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