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Discussion Starter #1
Dont know which thread to post this on but >>> I want to buy this so when i install a new head gasket and ARP head studs everything will just bolt on. My truck is my daily driver so i need this done the same day. Truck has over 180,000 miles with a turbo. What else should I replace while everything is apart? piston rings, rod bearings, and bored out cylinder walls too right???
oh are these genuine toyota or bootleg japanese part?
any oppinions are appreciated. thanks

http://www.japanengine.com/products/prodDetails.asp?pID=74&category=5&subcategory=27&size=0&search=&page=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Tacoma-2RZ-2-4L-3RZ-2-7L-Cylinder-Head-New_W0QQitemZ350069980536QQihZ022QQcategoryZ33617QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
 

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what's wrong with you're motor now? if you're worried about downtime, you can easily do a headgasket change on your current motor in a weekend (if that)
 

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shoot me a text when you need to do work. I'll help so you can get it done and back on the road. Just found your video on youtube. BADASS! :waytogo:
 

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ct stalker
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Those are aftermarket and come with a 1 year warranty. I was considering getting one for my 96 but decided to have my stock one rebuilt.
 

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Be very carefull!!!

Those are not original Toyota castings.

We tried one and the cam sensor position moves to the point where we could not get the car to run correct.

I would strongly recomend that you rebuild your stock head or buy a stock head and have it rebuilt.
 

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NOM NOM NOM NOM
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.

I would strongly recomend that you rebuild your stock head or buy a stock head and have it rebuilt.

X2. I agree. A local engine machine shop should be cheaper for a rebuild. I would make sure to references too. I would also recommend doing a before and after compression check.
 

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Hi all, I would like some more info on the head that you used! I just replaced the head on my 2.7L and now I get a P0340 code... camshaft position sensor bank 1. I have replaced the sensor and I still get the same code. What was wrong with the head that you used. I think the sensor hole does not go down deep enough to give the proper gap on the cam sensor.
Please help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Reviving this old thread, man i learned a lot along the way. I got a premium master rebuild kit from engine tech was only $271 on rock auto, parts are mostly made in taiwan like the pistons but look good quality, they all weighed the same. The lc kit was twice that and is also taiwan. I still need more parts and tools like new oem connecting rod bolts, main bearing cap bolts, flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts, i dont want to reuse the bolts because they have stretched and are old. New clutch kit, harmonic balancer puller and installer. The kit didn't come with water pump gasket and rear main seal cap gasket so i ordered those. I'm just gonna use stock graphite head gasket with arp stud torqued to 75-80 ft-lbs instead of stock head bolts 29 ft-lbs+90+90 degree. I was gonna get a reman head but now i know that they aren't as good as original castings so i'll just do a valve job for the top end, I got new intake and exhaust valves, viton valve seals, lc pro valve springs. I think i can reuse the spring seats, retainers and keepers. I will note down all shims thickness and check valve clearance for the new valves. Will most likely set it to 14psi after rebuilding, thats my end goal with all the parts got, but hope engine tech brand is good. Thank you for all the input.
 
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