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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I did this yesterday for the first time on my 2015, after 6 yrs/42k mi. After all that time, the factory coolant came out looking prettier than the stuff I put in. No s__t!! I gotta top it off this morning now that she's cold. And I'll check again tomorrow.

Here are a few tips if you think you wanna DIY, but... honestly, I would NEVER do this again. Real PITA job. My Taco is lifted (2.5-3" OME suspension lift from BilsteinLifts dot calm) and I got 32X10.50 MTZ tires, so there was no need for Rhino ramps or anything. Actually, any higher would have made it more difficult to reach the block drain from a flat-on-my-back position.

Crawling around... all greasy... even just attaching the drain hose to the engine petcock was (you guessed it) a real PITA! It totally sucked.

Unless Ur counting EVERY PENNY, let a tech handle it! I get it - some people enjoy this kind of work. I do not. I kinda thought I would... but not really. Ha!

Truth, this video helped. WATCH this vid, cause she gives important tips about turning on your heat and such, and how to determine when you can safely open your rad cap if your engine is warm. While there are various vids about this, many of them ramble, talk too slow, go off into unnecessary BS explanations... Faye's was by far the best.

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Cool down time for a warm engine, on a warm day, is about an hour, to safely open the rad cap.

The only hose that I had on hand (and I got LOTS of diff tubing, jeez) that fit both the rad petcock and the block was 1/4" fuel line from a small engine. Even that had to be flared with a plastic fitting from my siphon kit. It took me prolly an hour of trial and error to find a tube that fit. I put a close-up of the hose spec in the attachments.

I filled (nearly) two 2 qt. cranberry juice bottles, and two 1.75L vodka bottles with the used A-freeze. When you drain the block, you only need one 2 qt. container. Don't be worried about switching it out before it overflows. On a 2TR-FE w/a manual trans, it will not.

The socket for the block petcock is a 1/4" drive 10mm. The block drain is located on the pass side, under the manifold heat shield. You can see it thru the pass side front wheel well w/a flashlight, and from underneath.

Removing the skid plate makes it easier to turn the radiator petcock, which is on the driver's side bottom. Skid plate bolts are 12mm front, 13mm rear, 3/8" drive normal wrench. My skid plate has four alum spacers, of which I could only get two (rear) back on. I'm having my shop drain all the gear oil nxt week... I'll let them worry about it.

I didn't do the flush part. First, none of my local stores has distilled water. It's become another PANDEMIC scarcity, it seems. 2nd, I wouldn't know what to do w/2+ gallons of polluted water. 3rd, I think it's fine cause like I said, the coolant that came out looked pretty pristine. (see attachments) The reservoir was full w/NEW coolant when I did this change, cause I noticed it was low and topped it off just the other day. When you drain it all, the res comes down from full to like 25%, maybe. I had NO INTEREST whatsoever in adding another step to this job. I left the res alone.

When I re-filled I used maybe 3/4 of a gal of Toyota red that I had lying around, and only ONE gal of Prestone for Asian vehicles. So I'm sure this morn, when I check it, I'll have quite a bit more to go.

The Prestone is $20/gal. Toyota wants $33 a gal. That's a $40 difference on the 3 gals of A-freeze you will need for this job. (Although you can prolly get away w/two. Toy FSM says capacity is 9 quarts) I know there's a lot of talk about "JUST USE THE OEM STUFF - YOUR TRUCK IS WORTH IT". Sorry but I don't like the feeling of someone's hand in my pocket, of being fleeced. Didn't I do this miserable task (LOL) ON MY OWN to save money? Sheesh! Also, I'd never go 100,000 mi on any fluid, so if there's an advantage to using the Toy OEM stuff, I'll just end up flushing it away. (pun)

When I put the coolant back in, I made sure to hold the funnel (one of those long, blue thin jobbers) up a little, so it didn't create a seal around the radiator opening. Putting the coolant back in is easier if you just trickle it in. I gently squeezed the top rad hose and rocked the front bumper up and down. When she's as full as she can get engine off... start it, keep adding. Once you've gotten to the point where it's full tudda top, and then it goes back down - a few times - put the radiator cap back on, and rev the engine up around 3k rpm for about 20-30 secs. Then take the cap off again and keep adding. Once your engine starts to really warm up, the coolant will swell and start to gently overflow, without bubbles. That's it, for your first fill attempt. Put the rad cap back on, and just drive somewhere.

Prestone Asian coolant says compatibility: POAT. Now, I know IAT, OAT, and HOAT. WTF is POAT? ROTFL!!!

Lastly - PLEASE MARK your empty CRANBERRY JUICE bottles with a thick black marker that it's not cran anymore!!!! :ROFLMAO: 😂 I thought that was kinda important.

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