A 4wd driveshaft with double cardan u joints and a slip spline would help you out greatly. If you can get one. If you want a cheap solution you can shim the blocks at the back to make the rearend tilt forward slighly. I know a guy on a tight budget with a lifted Dodge 1500 and he used some metal shims between the blocks and springs. But, since he was lifting, he was putting them at the front because it works opposite.
Carrier Bearing/Pinion Angle
So Im about to put in some 3 inch drop blocks from advance (no degree cutting, just straight all the way across) and bj flip the front, I have the extended cab so I am wondering what I should do about the carrier bearing angle and the pinion angle if those will even be a problem with lowering 3 inches. Keep in mind Im pretty sure I already sit about an inch lower than stock due to some old ass springs front and back 
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You'll be fine with a flat 3" block and shouldn't have any problems with vibrations, but yes, you can flip the c/b in the center of the drive shaft which could help if you had a slight vibe. You undo the 2 bolts and spin it 180 degrees and bolt it back up. I just found out that cast steel blocks are as bad if not worse than aluminum ones from another forum. This guy's broke 2 sets.
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this works because when you look at the bracket, the tabs are mounted off-center like this..it looks like this stock, when you flip 180 degrees it it raises the carrier bearring slightly, balancing the angles between your joints a little better
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30 seconds in cad is worth a thousand words
but 15 seconds in MS Paint is priceless :lol:30 seconds in cad is worth a thousand words
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:funnyup: Now that's BEEFED! :headbang: We'll save that one into the computer right next to your intercooler. :waytogo:
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