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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i had some smart car people tell me that a 15 ohm resistor inline with the signal wire will do away with cat below therhold code p0420 , the reisistor works untill i drive freeway speed for a distance of time then it comes back pending. i am over buying the over priced :thinking: sim and waitng a ETERNITY for it to ship , can a spark plug fouler work on a toyota 02 dont know how it will work due to the double bolt assembly that bolts it to the pipe
 

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i had some smart car people tell me that a 15 ohm resistor inline with the signal wire will do away with cat below therhold code p0420 , the reisistor works untill i drive freeway speed for a distance of time then it comes back pending. i am over buying the over priced :thinking: sim and waitng a ETERNITY for it to ship , can a spark plug fouler work on a toyota 02 dont know how it will work due to the double bolt assembly that bolts it to the pipe
what sim were you waiting and eternity for? the signal wire into the ecu is a high impedance circuit, so adding a 15ohm inline with that is not likely to do anything.

next question, who are these "smart car people" that told you this info???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the urd sim or some other site had them but i wouldnt put my money on a unproven system , i cant stand waitning for parts to come in and i dont want to spend the 100 + dollars with shipping seemings i have alot more time than money these days , A instructor at UTI told me that it will work said he has done it several times with sucess on some t-100's arrrrrrrr is there aalternative to kill the cel, the resisor setup works as long as i am not 60+ miles an hour for 15 min


what sim were you waiting and eternity for? the signal wire into the ecu is a high impedance circuit, so adding a 15ohm inline with that is not likely to do anything.

next question, who are these "smart car people" that told you this info???
 

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the urd sim or some other site had them but i wouldnt put my money on a unproven system , i cant stand waiting for parts to come in and i dont want to spend the 100 + dollars with shipping seemings i have alot more time than money these days , A instructor at UTI told me that it will work said he has done it several times with sucess on some t-100's arrrrrrrr is there aalternative to kill the cel, the resisor setup works as long as i am not 60+ miles an hour for 15 min
the UTI guy should quit his job for telling you that!
buy the URD unit and be done with it, or ignore the check engine light, or put your stuff back to OEM setup, etc.
 

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I've been "catless" for over almost two years now with the URD sim, and passed inspection tests with it, no P0420 since. Absolutely the best solution.

I think I paid just over $100 from URD, had it in about 3 days, took 5 minutes to install. I would not even bother trying anything else.

Overpriced? I don't think so. Priceless? Maybe.
 

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On the 2000 and earlier trucks (that do NOT use an AF sensor) you can just hang the downstream O2 sensor(sensor 2) outside the exhaust pipe and plug the bung/hole. I've never had a CEL for cats on any of my trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the price of the sim isn't bad seemings its plug and play and its like the same price of the acutal sensor or a new cat , i still wanna try to to get around the sim ,because i have nothing better to do with my time so i will firgure it out somehow ...my truck does have a/f sensor in the front so i dont think i can hang the rear one down and that sounds kinda of jukey where would you put it it would get wet and dirty ,

On the 2000 and earlier trucks (that do NOT use an AF sensor) you can just hang the downstream O2 sensor(sensor 2) outside the exhaust pipe and plug the bung/hole. I've never had a CEL for cats on any of my trucks.
 

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the price of the sim isn't bad seemings its plug and play and its like the same price of the acutal sensor or a new cat , i still wanna try to to get around the sim ,because i have nothing better to do with my time so i will firgure it out somehow ...my truck does have a/f sensor in the front so i dont think i can hang the rear one down and that sounds kinda of jukey where would you put it it would get wet and dirty ,
Are you sure yours are A/F sensors? I thought only Cali spec were A/F in 2000 and 49 state were Federal spec using O2s..tho I could be wrong.
I've never had a problem with this method and Guam gets more than our fair share of liquid sunshine.
Anyway URD says the A/F sensors use the O2 sensors to self-calibrate .. so if you're unlucky enough to have A/Fs, you might as well play safe and get their gizmo thingy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Are you sure yours are A/F sensors? I thought only Cali spec were A/F in 2000 and 49 state were Federal spec using O2s..tho I could be wrong.
I've never had a problem with this method and Guam gets more than our fair share of liquid sunshine.
Anyway URD says the A/F sensors use the O2 sensors to self-calibrate .. so if you're unlucky enough to have A/Fs, you might as well play safe and get their gizmo thingy.
i have a/f sensor in the front i bought a narrow band from the retard at the stealership and my truck went went crazy i found the hard way out that i have a cali equiped truck , makes since that the rear 02 is used for the front calibrations after going with a catless setup my fuel trims changed couldnt figure out why , from always neg to almost even zero and plus , i had a single used honda accord ((((((((((oem cats burnt up due to me crossing the plug wires and driving for a week))))))))))) cat on there with no code being thrown for 5 years after header install... but there was a perfect spot to put the wide band sensor in the middle of the honda cat so i am the cheap [email protected]$tard who is to blame ,,,, i just bought a urd ftc and afr calibraotor and host of other goodies and gott pay rent and cant spend anymore money tell next month, and i hate cels petpeves i cure one and another one pops up, just got rid of p1133 front 02 code ,,, i found this set up on yota forums where people acutal POST PICS!!!!!!!!!!!! and thread helper s li am going to try this setup looks half way safe as long as the heater wires are not touched !!!!!!!!!! http://www.vfaq.com/mods/O2bypass.html
 

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ok guys spending over $100 for a lil thingy or re wiring your sensors for a 420 code is crazy.a simple $5-10 fix and a few mins will correct the problem

go to auto zone or any auto parts dealer and get the "help spark plug foulers" 2 of them they sell singles and sometimes doubles just get whichever as long as you have 2 of them total. P/N 42002

get a 1/2 drill bit and open up 1 of the foulers that way the senor bug fits in it. join the 2 foulers together put it back in its location on the exhaust and put the sensor on then your done should take 20mins total

I have done this many times to many cars that i have had catless without any issues/cells.
for those local if they would like me to make them a testpipe and add this feature it can be done no problem. and still look like you have a cat ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
cant do that due the fact tacoma 02 sensors have 2 bolts to mount them on the pipe there is no where to thread the de fouler on there , i found this on the web after looking long and hard !!!!here is the link for u cheapp [email protected]$tard's like me there is a link in the thread for sensor elimination and fooling just the signal wires http://www.yotatech.com/f116/fooling-your-02-sensor-133809/ yota tech coming threw cuzz whats a test pipe?hey santos is it true is cali that they can crush your car for having no cat on there , i heard some pigs will thermo ur exhaust to check for a cat , my buddy s at school wont drive their sr20 s to across cali border , http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/5791-how-most-obd-ii-remove-rear-o2-sensor.htm another helpful forum

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
so u just have to get the sensor out of the direct exhaust stream , i
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
how you go about making it how tall would it need to be ,
 

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yes just pulled out of the flow and it will not trigger the cell
with no signal the ecu will detect a issue. the ecu code has active afr tests and is expecting specific results from the rear o2 sensors.

OP, try try and try these novel ideas (as the UTI instructor said to, etc), but in the end there was only 1 real simulator from empirepao.com, and a device from URD. you can no longer buy the empire sim so your only choice is the URD item. the total $$ in your try-this try-that attempts will likely cost more time and effort than the URD item.
 

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It's a post cat o2 like any other. It still gets a reading it just isnt in the direct path I have done this on several cars different makes n models n works fine. I can personally make a test pipe on my stock rz n make the o2 bracket n not pop a code if there is a calling for it
 

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and its like the same price of the acutal sensor or a new cat
Not from what I have seen. The front cat is the priciest, and even the rear straight cat is well over $100, while the cheapest O2 sensor I found was like $120, and knowing that eventually those parts will need replacing again, why bother. URD sim is $104.
In your efforts to "find another way", it's starting to sound like using a wheel barrow to move a mountain of dirt.
Good for you if you can find some other way, but I'm going to guess that unless it's nearly free, takes less than 30 min to accomplish, and works %100 of the time, at any speed, for any time period, I'm sure that we'll just stick to the 5 min fix that has been proven time and time again to work. :waytogo:
 
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