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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What do some of you guys think would happen if I had some bushing made up for my leaf springs in Brass? Will it bind up to much while taking a turn??
And while we are on the subject of leaf springs, how much drop does removing the center leaf give??

My current set up is DJM kit up front plus the Eibach springs (1"? after sagging over time). The rear has a 3" steel block plus the flex-a-form fiberglass leaf springs. They are around 2 years old i guess and i dont want to chance them breaking on me. Plus the bushings look shot and the truck needs to go lower out back. So I want to swap in my old stock leaf springs with custom brass bushings to keep side to side motion tight for the drifty fun.
I also want to at the least, cut down the one lowering block on the driver side to correct the taco lean.
 

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Re: Brass bushings for leaf srpings

Just my opinion . Springs will flex and twist under lateral pressure,putting blocks and removing springs will not be as strong as good drop springs,[Alcan or Deaver].The factory rear spring is about 300lbs spring rate,to match the front eibachs a 320 lbs rear spring fits the bill.Both front and back 20% over stock,if you go to heavyer in the back it will hop over bumps. The front of a good spring will have metal straps around the springs and they act as a leading arm and the back of the spring acts as the spring .Then go with poly bushings.For centering the rear of a truck with leaf springs for your type of driving a panhard bar would be the way to go.Problem is nobody makes one for our truck,you will have to do research to pull it off.I plan on doing a PHB.If not done right your truck could be very deadly . I have alcans in my truck 8 or 9 leaves,but they are very thin,teflon between the springs,front double eye wrap ,3 inch drop ,w/ poly everywhere,racing shocks + other stuff and my truck handles great but needs more suspention work to realy dial it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Brass bushings for leaf srpings

footinmouth said:
Just my opinion . Springs will flex and twist under lateral pressure,putting blocks and removing springs will not be as strong as good drop springs,[Alcan or Deaver].The factory rear spring is about 300lbs spring rate,to match the front eibachs a 320 lbs rear spring fits the bill.Both front and back 20% over stock,if you go to heavyer in the back it will hop over bumps. The front of a good spring will have metal straps around the springs and they act as a leading arm and the back of the spring acts as the spring .Then go with poly bushings.For centering the rear of a truck with leaf springs for your type of driving a panhard bar would be the way to go.Problem is nobody makes one for our truck,you will have to do research to pull it off.I plan on doing a PHB.If not done right your truck could be very deadly . I have alcans in my truck 8 or 9 leaves,but they are very thin,teflon between the springs,front double eye wrap ,3 inch drop ,w/ poly everywhere,racing shocks + other stuff and my truck handles great but needs more suspention work to realy dial it in.
I hate you.
But seriously, where did you get those springs and for how much???
 

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Alcan spring in Col. 1-800-321-0870 or 970-241-2655.Charles Carter is the owner. One of the springs will be 3/4 inch more arch - taco lean, My truck has no lean now .Mine cost me 225 each+ shipping ,I think shipping was around 100$ to NY .I called alot of spring companies [10 +] and they were the only one who could give me what I wanted.When you start pushing these little trucks hard you can't go messing with junk parts. Also I was checking out a drifting ram 50 truck at a car show and the anti-sway bars,1 1/4 front-1 1/8 -back.He also had strong springs out of a bigger truck and made them fit. I couldn't push the truck down 1/2 inch.Would be deadly in the rain.I wish there was a cheap way to do this kind of work. Peace ,John
 
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