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· Registered
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geeze wonder why it was like 20 some HP lower then most other dynoed stock XR's
 

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Tourque looks like its near 240... What was everyone else getting stock?
 

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That's a loss of 23.3 % in the drivetrain and other thing. That's a lot, considering it's a 2WD. The loss should be between 15-17%....:shrug:
 

· slow poke
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I agree, it's usually less than 20% -- but the way some of you guys are replying, you would think he turned out 75hp on the dyno :D
 

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redrunner said:
I agree, it's usually less than 20% -- but the way some of you guys are replying, you would think he turned out 75hp on the dyno :D
You previosly wrote: "what do you guys expect, it's ok because is 25% loss"....then you agree with my comment, saying that a average car (2WD that is)....shouldn't loose more that 15-17 %....well, he's truck looses 23%....in that case, why don't you gime ME 6-8% extra hp...I swear I won't complain...;)
 

· Vendor
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You all need to keep in mind that you really can't compare one dyno with another one. Most use the DynoJet which is strickly an acceleration dyno.

The DynoDyamics is a completely different type of dyno. It is a loading dyno that uses an electric eddy current brake. The DynoDyamics is a very nice dyno and it is excellent for doing real tuning. You can lock the dyno at any speed and you can vary the throttle as much as you want and the speed will not change. If you are tuning a standalone system this is the type of dyno you need.

Now if you want to go do a dyno and compare it with other people's dynos you need to seek out a DynoJet because that is what most people use.

Gadget
 

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You all need to keep in mind that you really can't compare one dyno with another one. Most use the DynoJet which is strickly an acceleration dyno.

The DynoDyamics is a completely different type of dyno. It is a loading dyno that uses an electric eddy current brake. The DynoDyamics is a very nice dyno and it is excellent for doing real tuning. You can lock the dyno at any speed and you can vary the throttle as much as you want and the speed will not change. If you are tuning a standalone system this is the type of dyno you need.

Now if you want to go do a dyno and compare it with other people's dynos you need to seek out a DynoJet because that is what most people use.
VERY WELL SAID!!! AND SO TRUE. You want real #'s then go to the dynodynamics
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gadget said:
You all need to keep in mind that you really can't compare one dyno with another one. Most use the DynoJet which is strickly an acceleration dyno.

The DynoDyamics is a completely different type of dyno. It is a loading dyno that uses an electric eddy current brake. The DynoDyamics is a very nice dyno and it is excellent for doing real tuning. You can lock the dyno at any speed and you can vary the throttle as much as you want and the speed will not change. If you are tuning a standalone system this is the type of dyno you need.

Now if you want to go do a dyno and compare it with other people's dynos you need to seek out a DynoJet because that is what most people use.

Gadget
yes they said to add about 13-15% to get what the dynojet will readout. so that is around 212-216. so im sure that is around what ya'll are use to seeing.
 

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just so you know the dynojet is not just a "strict acceleration dyno" they can be outiftted with a brake and can be controlled just as "gadget" was saying where speed and loads can be controlled


just a lil fun fact for all u motorheads
 

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No, it is not that simple.

The DynoJet is super simple. It is a known mass being accelerated in a given time. The only reading from the drum is how many times it goes around. The calculation is simple. How fast you can accelerate that known mass in a given time comes up with an HP number.

On loading dynos they work completely different. They work on a strain sensor or load cell. As the eddy brake powers up to resist the rollers turning the stain sensor is deflected. Calibration of the dyno is now very critical. Known resistance applied against your engines efforts to turn it causes a defelction in the load sensor. It is easy to get this critical calibration a little off and this is the reason why laoding dynos don't always compare exactly the same even the same brand and model. All this does not matter when tuning as you are just looking for the increases, decreases and peaks in each cell in your EMS.

When you are doing an ongoing tuning project you should always use exactly the same dyno so the little error in calibration remains constant.

If you are using a loading dyno for acceleration snap shots you should keep using that very same dyno each and every time it is completely consistant. The max number really does not matter as long as you know if what changes you made make more power or less.

Just my opinion, but there are two top tuning chassis dynos, the DynoDynamics and DynoPack. Now once I was done doing development on a product or system, I would do a run on a dynoJet to publish that to the public so the numbers compare to what everyone is used to using and seeing.

A simple rule to live by, all dynos will report different numbers and they do not exactly compare with each other. So, when you see this guys dyno showing 188 don't go freaking out thinking that his truck is weak. I am sure if it was run on the DynoJet it would be were the rest the truck normally are.

Gadget
 
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