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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been bagging import trucks for many years, and I have finally had it. I'm tired of not having a good set of A arms, and I'm sure you feel the same. So I have started my own business and I am currently building a full line of engineered upper and lower A arm kits for bagged Tacoma's, and several other import trucks as well. They will offer full range of motion without any binding. They are being built from 1 1/4" OD DOM tubing, fully tig welded, will come with new bushings, and finally all new ball joints that will allow the most extreme of angles. You can have them raw finish or powder coated in a color of your choice.

They are designed so you don't have to flip your ball joint to layout on big wheels with no more spindle spacers, and will eliminate your strut bar all together.

I am just trying to get an idea of what the demand would be for this product. Feel free to ask any questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like a killer product. I wouldn't mind saving up for something like that! Could these also help with bump stear? You'd probably want to offer shock mounting addons as well.
Sorry, I forgot to mention they will come with well thought out and full cycle tested shock mounts to allow for full turning radius. They will help out on bump steer, but unless the rack is raised or the tie rod ends point of mounting is lowered then it is likely to still have some bump steer. I also plan to find a good solution for bump steer that is reasonable for everyone.

The upper and lower A arms with shock mounts in raw metal will be $489.00 a set plus shipping, and powder coated will be $525.00 plus shipping. For the amount of quality, this is a still. Why pay $700 for a set that doesn't really help out any better then your factory components. Just compare prices and you will see what I mean.
 

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why spend 500 on arms when you can lay body on 20" or 22" w/o them its been done with factory stuff thats why people like to flip the b/j its easy cheap and you still get the same result ...good luck it just seems like alot of work to still have bumpsteer issues:waytogo:
 

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why spend 500 on arms when you can lay body on 20" or 22" w/o them its been done with factory stuff thats why people like to flip the b/j its easy cheap and you still get the same result ...good luck it just seems like alot of work to still have bumpsteer issues:waytogo:
Because arms are sexy lol.... and Im assuming you wont lose as much lift as dropping the front end 3"s with flipping the ball joints?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
why spend 500 on arms when you can lay body on 20" or 22" w/o them its been done with factory stuff thats why people like to flip the b/j its easy cheap and you still get the same result ...good luck it just seems like alot of work to still have bumpsteer issues:waytogo:
I know you can lay one out on 20s using factory arms, flipping ball joints, spindle spacers, "z"ing the frame, and modifying the control arms to relieve ball joint stress. I've done it successfully many times, now I'm just looking to help out the mini trucker that doesn't have the ability too.

Put into mind not everyone has the time, tools, or knowledge to do that amount of modifications. I'm doing this to help them out.
 

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i'd also be interested in a set, cant commit to purchase right now though but within the next 2 months i will be able to
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Website will be up in the next 3-4 weeks. All my supplies should be here in in a couple of weeks. So production should begin in September. I will pride myself to have the arms built and shipped to you within a day or two of order.
 

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There is absolutely no reason for uniballs or any other exotic balljoints on any bag setup. The factory balljoints will almost always have enough travel when the balljoint has the correct angle to start with.

When the vehicle is layed out the balljoint should be at full down and locked or close to locked. Then the suspension has all the travel of the balljoint as it moves up to full up lock. There are very few bags that will top out a balljoint with the proper angles for bagged and layed out vehicles.

I have made Tacoma arms before and I am also working on fixtures again. It has been 2 years since I made any bag arms for Tacomas. I do however understand the balljoint angle correction and I can make the stock balljoints work well with bags. This means you dont have to look for exotic and expensive balljoints if you break one. especially if you break one out of town at a show. BUT Uniballs and other balljoints like that do look cool as hell.

The bumpsteer issue is one I will be working on with my second generation bag arms for Tacomas. I do leave the shock mounts off and only include them if the customer wants them. The same goes for sway bar mounts.

I wish you or anyone else luck with building tube arms. Its certainly not easy as many have found out recently.

how long have you been building custom rides? how long have you been building tube arms? how long have you been building suspension related parts such as 4 links etc?


Im waiting on a customer to send me a stock upper and lower arm and a spindle so I can check my old fixture. I may rework it or make a new one.

sorry if you think Im hijacking your post, but there are several issues about arms that need to be said. good luck
 

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Uniballs have the most articulation, unlike balljoints which have little. For most people, Uniballs will be overkill. They are more durable than balljoints. If he wants to do them, let him. There's nothing wrong with it!

Send me the specs of your upper and lower arms when you get a chance and how you designed them to correct the problems. I'm wanting to learn more about proper suspension geometry...
 

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I think flipping the balljoints is the ghey, kind of like KANE said its been done a million times but that doesnt mean its good or easy or desirable or anything. It would be a NICE luxury to have these arms that KANE has described using uniballs. For anyone thats trying to achieve alot of travel and wants to play with the bags these arms would be alot nicer than stockers...although i got this much travel out of my dakota with stock balljoints and arms, they were getting a serious work out and it would have been cool to have a nice quality arm to swap over too..


 

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uniballs are great, not saying they are not. but they are not needed. people are trying to lead everyone to believe they are needed to have lots of lift. that's just not true at all. most uniballs are not designed for street use and have no grease fitting. its far better to have the correct balljoint angles to start with. in most cases the stock balljoins are very good quality. they are designed to last 100,000 miles or more. most also have from 34 to 37 degrees of articulation. that's plenty of travel for even the biggest bags. its the angle at bottom out and top out that matters most. im of the opinion that its better to have easy to find parts for a street daily driver. I do also like the chrysler style screw in balljoints. they look good, are low cost and u can get them at most auto parts stores.
 

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yea...x2 on the easy available parts for a daily driver. Plus its not really super hard to change out a balljoint and they dont go bad every month. If yours do, you got bigger problems than the BJ. For 500 bucks though, thats a great deal for the arms and uniballs. Im curious as to what these arms will look like, i think in the near future i need to get a 5 lug tacoma to bag :)

another thing for DHP or KANE, if someone made a nice bolt in 4 link for tacomas they could probably make some money. Like say, you design the kit around the gas tank being pulled...kind of like all that s10 stuff SuicideDoors makes but not worry about retaining a stock gas tank...and im aware that CanDo has one but i dont really like the set up. I know it is alot of work though trying to create a rear link kit that everyone can use...

i guess most people dont mind fabbing up custom links but as stated not everyone has the time or welding abilities for all of that.
 

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Uniballs are kind of like really thick link bars..... you may not need them but it doesnt hurt either. To be honest if someone is worried about the price of thier ball joints they probably wont be looking at dropping money on arms to begin with.

I look at it this way..... its a "why not" statement. If Im putting in bad ass arms "why not" have some bad ass ball joints as well. :waytogo:

I hear ya on the link system too. I was talking to a buddy of mine last night about it. Around here there is a 3 link system floating around that keeps the stock tank but its not bolt on. I've only seen a few but its basiclly like the SD 3 link.... except the top link is bent upward to so it can be mounted low (by fuel tank) and still connect to the pumpkin (here is where the bolt on would be tricky at best). I was thinking it would be cool to add some level bars to the back and angle them a little to give more sway support and more lift... it would look like a cando reverse 4 link (minus the uppers) and the SD 3 link in the front :lol: ...

The one thing that you cant bolt on unless you make a full encloser is the pumpkin (unlike so many GM rear ends). I think thats the key right there... making a pumkin slip cover that wont slip or rotate..... get to it guys! :lol: :waytogo:
 

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You would be surprised at the number of people who chose stock style balljoints over others. price does matter some. Its best to offer both anyway.

The ONLY reason for the post was to get it out there that uniballs are not needed for travel.

On the 4 link thing, its an idea that needs to be looked into. Im currently ramping up into things slowly so I will get to it when I can. Im currently doing wrecking yard research almost every day when I get off work. look for updates soon. www.dallashotrodparts.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Everyone is going to have their own opinion on things and how their way is better. I am just trying to help out the ones in need.

I understand that uni ball balljoints may be an overkill but wouldn't you rather have over than under. I don't know about you but I don't have time to be constantly changing ball joints. I am also aware that I can make these arms with accepting the factory ball joints so if its that big of a deal then I will have an entire set built that will only accept the stock joint.

As for the rear link set up, it is coming along nicely. I will try and post pics in the 3-4 weeks and hopefully the rear link set up will be available in October.
 
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