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Recently installed a high boost supercharger kit on a 2000 automatic tacoma. It has stock exhaust and deck plated intake. I do have a k&n intake on the way. Also installed a remanufactured head With the supercharger. New stock injectors from LCE. New coils and wires and went with NGK BKR7E plugs. My issue is I am having pinging issues in high gear at low rpm. Like going up a small hill when it doesn’t need to downshift but the boost comes up to about 4-5 psi to hold speed. The weird thing to me is that the AFR gauge drops to 11.2-11.5 right when it pings and throughout the pinging. If i let off the throttle the AFR goes to 12.0-12.4 and the pinging stops and I seem to have better power. All of this is worse when the engine gets hotter. It also seems to run better and not ping as much when I have the split second hooked to just vacuum and not to vacuum and boost. Which doesn‘t make any sense to me.

Also i had a question on the vacuum line to the FPR. Does it need to see boost and vacuum? I currently have it connected back to the intake where it was before the supercharger.
 

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Is this stock ECU tune?

I would assume the FPR would need to see the actual intake pressure/vacuum to adjust pressure accordingly at the injectors if a MAP sensor isn’t in play for the ECU to adjust duty cycle. I would run a hose so it can see actual intake pressure and see how that does. This is a guess at Toyota coming from a factory boosted VW background.

I have a 3rz and am aware some liberties can be had with low boost setups using the stock ECU. I am on the fence whether I wanna boost mine, live with it, or maybe motor swap it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It has a piggyback ecu for the high boost pulley. Stock ecu will handle around 4psi. Piggyback with 5th injector is supposed to take care of timing retard and fuel for higher boost. I’ve seen on here where people attach the FPR to a boost source to raise fuel pressure during boost. Not sure if this is needed on the high boost application with piggyback split second ecu and 5th injector.
 

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It has a piggyback ecu for the high boost pulley. Stock ecu will handle around 4psi. Piggyback with 5th injector is supposed to take care of timing retard and fuel for higher boost. I’ve seen on here where people attach the FPR to a boost source to raise fuel pressure during boost. Not sure if this is needed on the high boost application with piggyback split second ecu and 5th injector.
Ah. I see what you’re saying. I would think it would be necessary to see boost at the FPR unless this secondary ECU can read boost. Raising fuel pressure on a constant injector duty cycle will increase fueling to the motor. Hopefully matching the increase in forced air. Otherwise the computer(s) do not know when there is boost. Especially when there isn’t enough throttle to downshift because the boost is helping it along. My thoughts on it. Makes sense in my head anyway.
 

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Ok first off I had majo lack of power follow LCE tune, and it seems that they allure abunch of sale associates not the actually tuner guys. So what I did was disconnected all settings from the split second and left them to 0. And poof all my problems went away!!!
The damn tune takes out too much timing” so power is lacking and then they dump way too much fuel. So since your AFR is 11. I would start with zero out all extra fuel. Then delete the retard.
 

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Oh and leave the vacuum line to FPR off. The injectors will not spray more fuel if the ecu doesn’t allow it. The fpr was designed to let hot gas back into the tank. Which newer cars don’t even allow
 

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Ok first off I had majo lack of power follow LCE tune, and it seems that they allure abunch of sale associates not the actually tuner guys. So what I did was disconnected all settings from the split second and left them to 0. And poof all my problems went away!!!
The damn tune takes out too much timing” so power is lacking and then they dump way too much fuel. So since your AFR is 11. I would start with zero out all extra fuel. Then delete the retard.
It does definitely run better on the low to mid range when I have everything 0 out. Which I did by hooking the vacuum line to the split second to only see vacuum. When it saw boost I could definitely tell it had too much timing retard and too much fuel all through boost. Was running very rich. Did you use any timing retard at all? Or just add fuel to higher rpm and boost?
 

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Nope totally zero it out. I run 8psi high boost. And the truck runs great without any tune. But I did install my stock intake pipe so that I can draw cooler air too. The short ram is no good for the supercharger heat. And I also just put a meth injection for better ( safer) tuning motor under boost. Now I’m going to be putting a turbo too!! Twin charge turbo and supercharger now I can really use the 5th injector for more power.
 

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Nope totally zero it out. I run 8psi high boost. And the truck runs great without any tune. But I did install my stock intake pipe so that I can draw cooler air too. The short ram is no good for the supercharger heat. And I also just put a meth injection for better ( safer) tuning motor under boost. Now I’m going to be putting a turbo too!! Twin charge turbo and supercharger now I can really use the 5th injector for more power.
Very nice! Thanks for the info!
 

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You want the AFR's to be linear with boost and throttle position. At 0 PSI (under vacuum) it's 14.7 AFR, at 8 PSI you want to be at about 11.5 to 11.8. That means for 4 PSI (which isn't full throttle) you'll want to be around 13.3 AFR. That's lean enough not to quench power but rich enough to take care of most pining. You'll then want to pull timing under 3000 RPM unless you get it at full throttle which is rare. Under 3000 RPM the ECU ignores the knock sensor input and will advance timing too far not knowing the engine is creating boost (we have a MAF sensor, not a MAP sensor). If you just zero everything out, you're running too lean until you hit full throttle and will still get pinging while applying moderate throttle in high gear. Also, if you are driving a manual, just downshift. Ping should not be an issue just change your driving style. Autos have it harder but you can also keep ECT Power on full-time and slightly over tighten the transmission kick down cable so that it doesn't build too much boost in overdrive and will instead kick down to 3rd.

This setup gets the most power under all throttle positions. Are you running the highest octane in your area as well? For some thats 91, but others can get up to 93. That will eliminate pinging without having to pull as much timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You want the AFR's to be linear with boost and throttle position. At 0 PSI (under vacuum) it's 14.7 AFR, at 8 PSI you want to be at about 11.5 to 11.8. That means for 4 PSI (which isn't full throttle) you'll want to be around 13.3 AFR. That's lean enough not to quench power but rich enough to take care of most pining. You'll then want to pull timing under 3000 RPM unless you get it at full throttle which is rare. Under 3000 RPM the ECU ignores the knock sensor input and will advance timing too far not knowing the engine is creating boost (we have a MAF sensor, not a MAP sensor). If you just zero everything out, you're running too lean until you hit full throttle and will still get pinging while applying moderate throttle in high gear. Also, if you are driving a manual, just downshift. Ping should not be an issue just change your driving style. Autos have it harder but you can also keep ECT Power on full-time and slightly over tighten the transmission kick down cable so that it doesn't build too much boost in overdrive and will instead kick down to 3rd.

This setup gets the most power under all throttle positions. Are you running the highest octane in your area as well? For some thats 91, but others can get up to 93. That will eliminate pinging without having to pull as much timing.
I only have 91 octane available where I live. I do have an auto transmission and I have a badly cracked exhaust manifold. Not sure if that would throw anything off. I’m about to install a doug thorley header. I read the u-tune guide and he says to have a number in every box on the map A. The base tune they sent me has all zeros in vacuum and only like 2-4 in the rest of the boost field throughout the rpm range. On their base tune I was getting a lot of pinging when the afr went rich. That was a little odd to me. And the truck was a turd until about 4k rpm. When I hook the vacuum line to vacuum only so it doesn‘t see boost, it has less pinging and doesn’t go as rich. Does anyone in Colorado work with this tuning software? I’m about to just have it tuned by a shop correctly.
 

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You mentioned Colorado ... What altitude / elevation are you at? Did your base tune take altitude into account? It can make a difference depending on how high above sea level you are.

Just a thought ...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You mentioned Colorado ... What altitude / elevation are you at? Did your base tune take altitude into account? It can make a difference depending on how high above sea level you are.

Just a thought ...
i am at about 4300‘. Not in the mountains by any means though.
 

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I only have 91 octane available where I live. I do have an auto transmission and I have a badly cracked exhaust manifold. Not sure if that would throw anything off. I’m about to install a doug thorley header. I read the u-tune guide and he says to have a number in every box on the map A. The base tune they sent me has all zeros in vacuum and only like 2-4 in the rest of the boost field throughout the rpm range. On their base tune I was getting a lot of pinging when the afr went rich. That was a little odd to me. And the truck was a turd until about 4k rpm. When I hook the vacuum line to vacuum only so it doesn‘t see boost, it has less pinging and doesn’t go as rich. Does anyone in Colorado work with this tuning software? I’m about to just have it tuned by a shop correctly.
The cracked manifold makes a big difference. The O2 sensor is just downstream and is seeing unburnt oxygen. I would install the header and hold off tuning any more until you fix the leak.
 

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Recently installed a high boost supercharger kit on a 2000 automatic tacoma. It has stock exhaust and deck plated intake. I do have a k&n intake on the way. Also installed a remanufactured head With the supercharger. New stock injectors from LCE. New coils and wires and went with NGK BKR7E plugs. My issue is I am having pinging issues in high gear at low rpm. Like going up a small hill when it doesn’t need to downshift but the boost comes up to about 4-5 psi to hold speed. The weird thing to me is that the AFR gauge drops to 11.2-11.5 right when it pings and throughout the pinging. If i let off the throttle the AFR goes to 12.0-12.4 and the pinging stops and I seem to have better power. All of this is worse when the engine gets hotter. It also seems to run better and not ping as much when I have the split second hooked to just vacuum and not to vacuum and boost. Which doesn‘t make any sense to me.

Also i had a question on the vacuum line to the FPR. Does it need to see boost and vacuum? I currently have it connected back to the intake where it was before the supercharger.
Did you get sorted?

I have the cable for the FTC1 coming, but box stock tune is not happy on this thing.

I did learn that disconnecting boost line to the controller made the lower rpm feel stock again instead of falling on its face.
 
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