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Discussion Starter #1
whats up guys!
I got a 99 Tacoma 3 months ago
Always been a huge toyota guy since I was young and got this truck on too good of a deal to pass up
Was just going to keep it for year or so till I could import a chaser on a good deal but then realized the aftermarket support and community thats still active on these 2rz/3rz motors
I did alot of research and have a donor motor to rebuild im going to pick up soon and a parts list but kind of got confused on a few things

How many guys truly run a catch cam setup
I understand the need in a direct injection setup but not as much for our MPFI setup

Balance shafts! I understand the thought of removing them on DSM motors like the 4g but whats the purpose and im not even sure if the 2rz has them lol

Whats the most effective intercooler setup and placement
I see some guys not running them and some who use them
(Planning on running the LCE High boost setup, 16psi)

Other than gearing is there any other real reason to run something like a w58 instead of the w59

I've heard mixed reviews on the hall tech setup by LCE and other options out there like the megasquirt ect not sure what the best setup people run now
The biggest issue is some info on here is dated saying diffrent than what people say now

Is there any issues with keeping the stock a/c setup with the turbo setup ive head people still run it but do i need to reroute line or anything like that because I do see alot of build with them removed
older trucks ac goes out and people don't care to have them i understand that,but I've had enough stripped out drift missles to understand how much it sucks not having a/c especially for the wife or the dog

Diff upgrades? I'd like to have a LSD but I hear mixed things like to just run a locker or s-runner diff

I understand these motora handle 20psi at around 350hp on stock setup which is nice cause the less money I have to drop at a machine shop is great but is there anything as far as valve train I really need to budget for as far as valves or cams when running higher boost for a daily like this

Lastly ive also noticed people upgrade rear main seals alot when doing stuff like this is it just because you're already there doing the work with the motor out or is it a weak point when you start getting into boost

Thanks guys sorry for so many questions ive done weeks of research most of this is to clarify what's the most up to date info or just others opinions
 

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Catch can's just make sense for every engine honestly. PCV recirculation is just for emissions and will always gunk up your intake mani or where ever the PCV is routed to be put back into the combustion chamber to burn off the oil vapors. Running a catch can is too simple, and totally worth it when you're building an engine for performance.

2RZs do not have balance shafts, but the 3RZs do. The cheap way to get rid of them is just to rotate the bearings in the journals to block the holes, but LCE (and maybe paradise racing) offers a balance shaft delete kit. But again, only applicable to the 3RZ.

Front mount air-to-air is the easiest and cheapest. It also does the job. I'm currently on about 20psi of boost with no issues in that department at least. Can't comment on the most efficient, but I have seen water-to-air setups. And I'd assume those would be the most efficient if done properly. They just have more maintenance.

W58 all the way. You get a longer 1st and 2nd gear(don't have to shift gears as quickly), and a taller 5th gear for cruising. Look for one that has the cast iron center separator plate. Those are supposedly the strongest. Although I broke reverse in one already, but that was my dumba$$ fault. I'm fairly certain the one I have now is an all-aluminum cased unit holding ~350hp with no issues so far. YMMV

The Detroit tru-trac is pretty great. I can't speak for any other unit, but I love the tru-trac. Maintenance-free and does it's job. Unless you plan on creating gobs of power for drag racing and are gunna use really sticky tires. A user here years ago attributed several broken axles to the tru-trac when dragging his taco with race slicks. The way it transfers power initially tends to break the same axle time and time again evidently.

Valvetrain upgrades may only be necessary if you plan to rev above the stock limiter. The springs can only hold so many RPM before they start to float. I went with an upgraded spring and coated valves in the stock size from LCE, but I'm also not shooting for 500+ hp etc etc... My goal was 3-4 hundred useable (daily-able) hp...my goal is achieved and I'm happy...for now. lol

As long as you have a good crankcase ventilation system the stock rear main seal shouldn't be an issue. If you pressurize the crankcase you are guaranteed to blowout any seal eventually no matter how strong it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man
I got a buddy who had a few diffrent w58 trans just have to look at them

Mostly wanna get a lsd for drifting and skids
I mostly go to drift events and a few autox
I remember seeing something about a powerbrute also
But thats not something I'm as worried about till after the motor is taken care of
 

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Yeah man, for sure. You can def still drift with a tru-trac. And on road driveability should be relatively unaltered. If you wanna do autocross(which is what I do) then you wanna steer clear of any lunchbox style lockers. They don't disengage quick enough for quick cornering like in autocross. And air or electric lockers are completely out of the question. You're gunna want an LSD for sure.

Oh, and I forgot to mention too, I kept the stock AC system. You may have to bend the lines ever so slightly depending on where your turbo ends up. That's what I had to do with zero issues. Mine still works like stock.
 

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I'm all for welding diffs, but only in things it makes sense to...like my 86 4runner that's just an off-road toy. And only the front diff. Lol. Although I'm gunna end up just welding the rear as well since it'll never see pavement again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
for track use if you do it right you can't beat it,its free but this will probably be my one and done vehicle and daily,with what I have planned i don't really see the need to buy a new car or truck for the next 10 years ahaha
 

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I currently have 4.10s in my reg cab turbo truck. I'm thinking about putting the stockers back in (3.73) because it kinda ruined the longer gears of the W58. But it sure is a tire slayer, and rockets to 100+ mph in no time. But I hit rev limiter in 5th gear at 135mph. Lmao. Not that I need to go any faster honestly. I'd like to get it on a road course before I make that decision.

For drifting, 4.10s might do the trick since wheel speed is essential. But I don't know, I don't do much drifting. Just the occasional donut or two. Just know that if you plan on dailying it as well your fuel consumption will skyrocket. Lol
 

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The tru-trac is gunna be cheaper and be zero maintenance. If that's what I think it is it'll require the additive in the diff oil, which isn't a big deal, but then you've got clutch packs that wear over time. Tru-trac is worm gears that theoretically never wear out. No parts to service compared to a standard LSD, which is what that appears to be.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Makes since I did more research on the trutrac everyone seems to run it

You ever heard of people running into issues with the turbo and a/c
 

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I have had zero issues keeping the entire stock AC system. Just need to bend the lines slightly away from the turbo. And that isn't a big deal at all.
 
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