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I posted this as a reply to a post, and I think it would be more useful to others as a new post.

To remove the door panels, first unscrew the two screws in the panel. One in the door release handle, the other in the armrest handle. You will have to remove the sail panel(plastic panel where the outside mirror is opposite of)
IMPORTANT: When removing this sailpanel make sure to take out the white clips afterwards. If you try to snap the panel back in with them still in the door you will end up pushing the white clips down into the door. So take them off and place them back on the sailpanel, then reinstall sail panels.

Remove the anchor plug on the door panel that's under the sail panel.

Roll down the windows.

Once you have the sail panel, screws and anchor plug out you will seperate the door panel from the door starting at the bottom rear of the panel. You can just pull them off with some force, or if you have a door panel remover tool(like a v ended screwdriver) use that.

Once the doorpanel is loosened pull up on the entire assembly and the panel will be off the door.

Roll the window back up.

Disconnect the two plugs that the power windows and door locks are connected to. Now the panel will be completely detached.






 

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You will need to make an adaptor mount using MDF wood. This is the best way to do it. It's the only way to do it if you plan on using round 6.5" speakers. Some people have fit 6x9" speakers in to the door by removing the stock speaker and modifying the baffle to fit a 6x9 in.

I would rec. to use an MDF baffle. If you don't feel like making them yourself you can order these from Marv.









The back access cab doors are a little harder to remove, but still pretty easy.

The back door uses torx screws instead of phillips like the front.

There is one located on the door handle panel, and one in the door grab under the window. Remove these two screws then remove the door handle panel and the door grab trim. Remove the plastic cover for the bottom of the seatbelt then unscrew the seat belt bolt(14mm iirc)

There's a plastic anchor at the top of the door that will also have to be removed.

Once all that is done, pull on the bottom of the panel or use a panel remover screwdriver. Start from the bottom and go up.

You should be able to pull the panel off the door once all the clips are released.

The back door uses a 6.5" round speaker enclosed in a baffle. I'd also rec. if possible to make an MDF baffle as well.
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Good job, Cam' !...


I nominate this for hosting as a tech article in the CT Tech section
 

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That is a pretty good write-up but I think you should add a couple things.

1. To remove the anchor plugs you just have to use a pen to push the button in and then you can easily remove the anchor. I broke two of these because I thought you may have needed a special tool to pull the button out.
2. I didn't have to roll down the windows to get the panel off the door.
3. I can take some pics of the door panels and highlight where all the screws/anchors are to add to the write-up.

Otherwise I think this should a tech article.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds good.

I wrote, roll the window up becasue once you have the door panel off, if you wanted to roll the window up for access to sound deaden the doors you would need to reconnect the door panel switch to roll it back up.
 

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I noticed on my door panels that once you are ready to seperate the door panel from the door, there is room on the front lower corner of the door panel to pull on. Just grab the corner and pull outward and the whole door panel pops off easily.
 

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Appreciate all the info. Getting ready to get into my door panels. One question, though, I have window knobs (not electric). How do I remove them prior to taking off the panels?

Thanks, all.
rick
 

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Cam do you have the baffle template you used or did you free hand the template and then clean the baffle up. Your baffles are very clean looking.
 

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the quickest way is with a shop rag. If the handle is pointing down, hold each end of one side of a shop rag and slide it behind the handle. Move the rag side to side while lifting upwards on the rag and it will dislodge the spring clip holding the crank on. reinstall the clip to the handle while you have it off and the crank will just snap back on when you install it. I hope I explained this good enough to work for you, but actually it should take all of 3 seconds to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cam do you have the baffle template you used or did you free hand the template and then clean the baffle up. Your baffles are very clean looking.
I go through Marv for my baffles and boxes. But all you really have to do if you want to make your own is to trace the outer diameter of the stock speacker baffle.
 

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Nice write up man... I always love it when I know what to dislodge everytime I go in there messing with stuff... I generally break a clip or two messing with a new car...
 

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What size depth should you look for in replacement 6.5" speakers for
an 05/06 tacoma? Is that an issue? I'd hate to buy speakers, make the
adapter, tear the door apart and find my spakers are too 'deep' when I
go to put them in....

Thanks - jack
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
And you can always use a 1" baffle for more clearance :D

My Seas Lotus Reference 6.5" mids clear the window with the 3/4" baffle, they are 2.81" deep.

With my 7" Peerless Exclusive mids the window rubbed against the back of the magnet on the speaker. Those had a mounting depth of 3.08"
 

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FWIW, using Tacotunes adapters, I put Polk Audio MoMo MMC690s (6x9s) in the front doors of my 06 DC. The speakers came with a plastic piece over the magnet that was designed to be removed if necessary. I found it necessary or it would hit the window.

Another good reason to have the window rolled down: make sure your speaker clears it! :)
 
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