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Discussion Starter #21
this plug is a 10 pin plug, I don't know why these plugs are there but there is one on each side under the kick panel that is unused.


I will get the colors of the wires in the 10 pin plugs if you want, just let me know


the unused ten pin plugs I found in the kick panels can be seen below
The plug in the third picture you posted that you are not holding looks like it is for the windows. Notice the L-R wire?
 

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The plug in the third picture you posted that you are not holding looks like it is for the windows. Notice the L-R wire?
yes, the ones im not holding in the third picture are from the door wiring harness


I put everything in the passengers door already so that side is already complete except for connecting the plug wires. I did that side first because AFAIK the drivers door controls everything so I figured there was nothing I would need to sort out with that side of it.
 

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I've modified your post count to 15, so you can post photos now. :waytogo:

thank you kindly sir :waytogo:




L-O on the 2004 diagram is pin 8 on the mirror connector (that's what that little number is where it goes to the switch on the diagram). This could easily be a different color if you don't have a harness from a 2004.
ok, mirrors sorted and working in all 4 directions now, check that off list

turns out its the blue with red stripe that is +12v for the mirrors


the diagram shows it changes color after the fuse but it doesn't on my truck, it stays the same color


I caught hell with this one because the mirror p[lug was sun bleached so the colors were all faded and it doesn't help that these small wires have stripes that get big enough not to know which color is the main color


so to recap, the small plugs on the doors are only for the speaker wires and power mirrors only and the ground is supplied through the ground wire on the big plug, so somewhere within the harness, the small white with black stripe wire to the mirror switch ties into it


now to get the door locks working, I haven't gotten them figured out yet at all
 

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Discussion Starter #24
thank you kindly sir :waytogo:








I will have to try and sort that out, the mirror switch plug has the following colors:


blue with red stripe (goes from switch out to drivers mirror)
blue with yellow stripe
red (goes from switch out to drivers mirror)
green with red strip
green with black stripe
grey (goes from switch out to drivers mirror)
white with black stripe (assumed to be -12v ground)
It is almost definitely the Blue Yellow. The color variations are usually very close. G-R and G-B are both on the diagram.
 

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It is almost definitely the Blue Yellow. The color variations are usually very close. G-R and G-B are both on the diagram.
nope, its definitely a small blue wire with a red stripe on it that is main power wire for the mirrors.


I traced it out and everything else is accounted for based on the diagram colors and its shown on the diagram coming from the ignition switch and after the accessary fuse it shows its supposed to change to L-O but it stays the same on mine.


I cant make heads or tails of the door locks though


I figured out the large blue and large blue with white stripe are the power wires for the door lock motor but I haven't figured out the way the switch functions yet but I think I will have to add relays to reverse voltage wires to make the locks work. I say this because the door switch only makes contact with the ground wires so I guess the voltage polarity switching was originally done within the ECM instead of inside the switch like the power windows do.
 

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as I thought, I will have to use relays to make the power locks work


the picture I made below, shows you how to wire the relays into the wiring harness but whatever you do, dont install them in the door, install them in the kick panel or up under the dash since they don't work well around moisture
 

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I made a list of what all the wires are for and where they need to be connected to:

drivers side large plug:
large white wire black stripe (-12v main ground wire)
large red wire blue stripe (to other door)
large blue wire white stripe (to other door and PDL relay)
(PDL power)
large red wire black stripe (to other door and PDL relay)
(PDL power)
large blue wire red stripe (+12v PW power) (to other door)
large blue wire (to other door)

small red wire yellow stripe (door lock switch -12v circuit)
small black wire blue stripe (door unlock switch -12v circuit)


small blue wire black stripe (not used, originally went to ECM)
small green wire black stripe (not used, originally went to ECM)
small grey wire (not used, originally went to ECM)


drivers side small plug:
small green wire red stripe (to other door)
small green wire black stripe (to other door)
small red wire (to other door)
small blue wire red stripe (+12v mirror power) (to large +12v blue wire red stripe)
small pink wire (speaker wire)
small purple wire (speaker wire)


passengers side large plug:
large red wire blue stripe (to other door)
large blue wire white stripe (to other door)
large blue wire white stripe (to other door and PDL relay)
(PDL power)
large red wire black stripe (to other door and PDL relay)
(PDL power)
large blue wire (to other door)

small white wire black stripe (to other door)
small red wire yellow stripe (door lock switch -12v circuit)
small black wire blue stripe (door unlock switch -12v circuit)


small black wire (not used, originally went to ECM)
small grey wire (not used, originally went to ECM)
small purple wire (not used, originally went to ECM)

passengers side small plug:
small green wire red stripe (to other door)
small green wire black stripe (to other door)
small red wire (to other door)
small navy blue wire
(speaker wire)
small green wire (speaker wire)



anyone looking to do this already can figure it all out from what I've posted already, but later next week some time, i'll try to put together a full how to post with pictures and parts needed to do this full manual to power conversion.





 

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as I thought, I will have to use relays to make the power locks work


the picture I made below, shows you how to wire the relays into the wiring harness but whatever you do, dont install them in the door, install them in the kick panel or up under the dash since they don't work well around moisture
I bought two 12v 30amp DPDT general purpose power relays to make the power locks work but you can use the 10 amp relays in DPDT or DPST variants because the door lock draw less then 5 amps. I dont like the NC hot terminals unprotected on the DPDT relay so I cap off the unused terminal.


as far as price goes, there is virtually no difference at all in the two types of relays but DPDT relays cost $5 while DPST relays cost $20 each so get a DPDT relay and you can just cap off the unused terminal. (don't bend or break the extra terminal off or it can ruin the relay)


see the attached pictures for how to wire your relays
 

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ok I made a minor mistake on the list as what they power, the two big red wires are for the door locks and the two big blue wires are the window motors.


here is an updated and accurate list:

drivers side large plug:
large white wire black stripe (to other door) (-12v main ground wire)
large red wire blue stripe (to other door)
(PDL actuator)
large red wire black stripe (to other door) (PDL actuator)
large blue wire white stripe (to other door) (PW motor)
large blue wire (to other door) (PW motor)

large blue wire red stripe (to other door) (+12v PW/PDL power)
small red wire yellow stripe (door lock switch -12v circuit)
small black wire blue stripe (door unlock switch -12v circuit)

- small blue wire black stripe (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small green wire black stripe (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small grey wire (not used, originally went to ECM)


drivers side small plug:
small green wire red stripe (to other door)
small green wire black stripe (to other door)
small red wire (to other door)
small blue wire red stripe (+12v mirror power hooks to large +12v blue wire red stripe)
small pink wire (speaker wire)
small purple wire (speaker wire)


passengers side large plug:
large red wire blue stripe (to other door)
(PDL actuator)
large red wire black stripe (to other door) (PDL actuator)
large blue wire white stripe (to other door) (PW motor)
large blue wire (to other door) (PW motor)

large blue wire red stripe (to other door) (+12v PW/PDL power)
small white wire black stripe (to other door) (-12v main ground wire)
small red wire yellow stripe (door lock switch -12v circuit)
small black wire blue stripe (door unlock switch -12v circuit)
- small black wire (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small grey wire (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small purple wire (not used, originally went to ECM)


passengers side small plug:
small green wire red stripe (to other door)
small green wire black stripe (to other door)
small red wire (to other door)
small navy blue wire
(speaker wire)
small green wire (speaker wire)
 

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Mambeau / Admin
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Where did you decide to mount the relays?
 

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waiting on them to come in (next Friday I think) but its got to go up under the drivers side because that's where it ties into the drivers side door wiring harness.


after I install the wiring harness I make, then I can see how everything fits in the drivers kick panel and if there is room for the relays in there or if I need to mount it up under the dash somewhere above the kick panel. the trouble will be the short hazard from the spade terminals is hard to address unless its mounted to the side wall.


there is a huge empty void there behind the dash so space wont be an issue, but if it fits, im going to try to put it in the kick panel as long as there are no chances of shorts or pinched wires.


the wiring harness I make will have the relay wires hanging out with enough extra wire length (18") to reach wherever it needs to go and i'll cut them to length and crimp on spade connectors for the relays so there is no soldering involved in installing the relay setup.


its the last step and I haven't had time to crawl under there and plan that part out yet but I must be sure there is "no" chance of accidental contact with metal or tugging on wires so I may make a mounting bracket for the relays if need be.
 

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a few more notes as I work through all this:

wiring harness routing instructions
starting on the passenger side and before the drivers side plugs are soldered onto the harness, run the wire harness behind glove box hinge bracket and across dash, going into the lower dash trim and over the ECM. then go up and over the steering column bracket being careful to not crossing over or under any moving parts, then run it down to the drivers side kick panel.

NOTE - you will not be able to get the wiring harness to fit through the dash if the drivers side plugs are already installed so those plugs must be done after the wires are run through the dash and after the plugs are soldered on, the wiring harness will no longer be able to be removed without cutting the plug ends off.

now after its all situated securely and the glove box and passenger kick panel is reinstalled, then and only then do you lay out the drivers side wires to how they will be situated and secured under the dash and then measure where to cut the wires off or even if you need to cut them.

soldering the drivers side harness plugs and adding the extra wires
NOTE - when you are ready to solder the plugs on the drivers side of wiring harness you should use a baking pan or something under you to protect the carpet from solder drips or accidental carpet burns.

you will need to add extra wires when joining the drivers side harness plugs to the wiring harness you made. there will be an extra 12" length of wire you need to add to the two wires you connect together to join both door wires together as well as the wires to control to the door lock relays. use the same size and color coded wire as used in the harness when you join the drivers side harness plugs to the harness.


large white wire black stripe (hooks direct to the main ground lug on drivers kick panel)
small white wire from your new wiring harness (hooks direct to the main ground lug on drivers kick panel)
large blue wire red stripe (hook to +12v main power relay)
small blue wire red stripe (hook to +12v main power relay)
small red wire yellow stripe (to PDL relay coil for switch activation)
small black wire blue stripe (to PDL relay coil for switch activation)
large red wire blue stripe (to PDL relay for power wire)
large red wire black stripe (to PDL relay for power wire)

you will also need to run two wires to get -12v and +12v power from the auxiliary power plugs in the center dash lower panel to connect to the main power supply relay coil wires so it only turns on power to the doors when the key is on. these wires need to be 18 gauge wire and are 52" long. wrap them the full length with electrical tape and run it along and secure them to the wiring harness you already installed.
 

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ok after giving it a lot of thought I decided its best and safest to mount two relay sockets to the side wall behind the kick panel. this avoids any issues of anything being able to touch anything and cause shorts of any kind plus it allows quick and easy relay removal for testing or replacement.


as I have said a few times before, im going to create a full DIY thread when im done but just wanted to keep this thread fully detailed until then.


I couldn't find any relay and socket combo in the 30 amp so I got the 10a sockets and I will use the 30a relays in it. the amp rating for the socket is really meaningless since its the relay that always has the weakest link in the connection anyway so the 10a socket will easily handle 30a if I ever used that much.


these are the relay sockets I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/231497068858?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 

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ok, I had another small glitch, the main power supply relay I bought was a 4 pin SPST 40 amp relay for car alarms. I was thinking it was the same pin setup as a horn relay but it wasn't, because it was an "alarm" relay, it was a NC relay which means it opens when power is applied to the coil so its the wrong one.


so this normally would have caused an extra week delay as I had to reorder a SPDT 5 pin 40 amp relay so it can be wired to open or close a circuit when the coil is powered. but since my door lock relay sockets are coming from china I have to wait another week for those anyway. I will simply remove the NC contact wire connection that isnt going to be used.


when you are buying these relays, you have to be careful and be absolutely certain to be careful to make sure which type it is
 

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ok, seams im good at spinning my wheels here :brickknoc, the 10 amp sockets showed up and even though they claim to fit the JQX DPDT relays, there are obviously different sized JQX DPDT relays because these 10 amp relay sockets are for the DPDT relays only the size of a nickel with the small 1/8" spade terminals and the wire connections are for tiny 20 gauge wires.


so these things that I "thought" were a great idea to use to eliminate any thought to mixing up wires if the relay ever needed to be replaced :badidea:, wont work and I wasted my time waiting on them.


the JQX DPDT 30/40 amp relays have screw mounts on them, so I will just use those and connect them to a flat mounting plate, then connect that to the side wall in the kick panel so if I ever need to change them, its easier, and better since I will now have to watch where the wires are plugged into so nothing gets crossed, but in truth the reason for using 30 amp relays in the first place was so they never wear out and need changing.


with this new found knowledge I suggest when buying your DPDT 30 amp relays to get the JQX -30F-2Z relays with the slots on each side for only 2 screw mounting, so they are easier to mount.


like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-JQX-30F-2Z-DC-12V-Coil-30A-250V-AC-Power-Relay-8-Pin-DPDT-/300715926685?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item460410e49d
 

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Thanks for the update ... :waytogo:

Sorry to hear the long-anticipated sockets didn't work out ... :doah:
 

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yep, I was trying to do this in a way so its idiot proof to work on and a plug in relay sure is easier then making sure to keep track of where 6 different wires plug into lol.


the sockets are adorable little things that look like a leggo block lol, they are 3/4" wide x 3" long and use tiny little 3/4"x3/4" DPDT 8 pin relays. there must be intended for use with electronics or something.


im working on swapping out everything in the drivers door right now so i just have to install the power window regulator and i can put the door panel back on to finish that door. after that its just about doing the final wiring inside the drivers kick panel.


I should be finishing up this evening after it cools off. its over 100 degrees heat index right now, so im not climbing into a hot truck laying on dirty carpet soaked in sweat and try to solder wires making neat connections and tidy wire routing in this heat.
 

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ok I made a minor mistake on the list as what they power, the two big red wires are for the door locks and the two big blue wires are the window motors.

I figured out as I was writing things down I somehow mixed up the power window and power door lock power wire colors. so the big red wires are for the windows and the big blue wires are for the door locks.


see corrected chart below:

drivers side large plug:

- large white wire black stripe (to other door) (-12v main ground wire)
- large red wire blue stripe (to other door) (PW motor)

- large red wire black stripe (to other door) (PW motor)
- large blue wire white stripe (to other door)
(PDL actuator)

- large blue wire (to other door)
(PDL actuator)
- large blue wire red stripe (to other door) (+12v PW/PDL power)
- small red wire yellow stripe (door lock switch -12v circuit)
- small black wire blue stripe (door unlock switch -12v circuit)

- small blue wire black stripe (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small green wire black stripe (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small grey wire (not used, originally went to ECM)


drivers side small plug:

- small green wire red stripe (to other door)
- small green wire black stripe (to other door)
- small red wire (to other door)
- small blue wire red stripe (+12v mirror power hooks to same power source as large +12v blue wire red stripe)
- small pink wire (speaker wire)
- small purple wire (speaker wire)



passengers side large plug:
- large red wire blue stripe (to other door) (PW motor)

- large red wire black stripe (to other door) (PW motor)
- large blue wire white stripe (to other door)
(PDL actuator)

- large blue wire (to other door)
(PDL actuator)
- large blue wire red stripe (to other door) (+12v PW/PDL power)
- small white wire black stripe (to other door) (-12v main ground wire)
- small red wire yellow stripe (door lock switch -12v circuit)
- small black wire blue stripe (door unlock switch -12v circuit)
- s
mall black wire (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small grey wire (not used, originally went to ECM)
- small purple wire (not used, originally went to ECM)


passengers side small plug:

- small green wire red stripe (to other door)
- small green wire black stripe (to other door)
- small red wire (to other door)
- small navy blue wire
(speaker wire)
- small green wire
(speaker wire)
 

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ok, happy to report everything is installed now and its finished. it all works perfectly and unless you look under the dash to see the extra relays, you wont know its not all stock oem.


mirrors, locks, and windows, all work perfectly
 

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I would like to add one note as a word of caution to anyone else doing this.


since you would be adding the wiring harness and power regulators for the first time ever, there is nothing to guide you and you have to figure it out as you go as to where things clip, connect and get routed. along with this the regulators can be mounted on the wrong side door if you are not careful so be sure when its mounted that the gear is at the top and the motors plug end faces down and that is the correct mounting position.


I got a set of power window regulators that were marked wrong and so I put them in on the wrong side and it installed and worked fine, but the windows stopped about 2" above the door when the gear bottomed out. if this happens to you, then you have the regulator on the wrong door or you have the wrong regulator.


so just a heads up that you can install the regulators on the wrong door, they are not a "one way only" type of mounting bracket and since you had to add a wiring harness to the door, you don't have that fixed position wiring to tip you off that something isn't right with the position of the plug connection
 
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