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Discussion Starter #81
I got the engine on an engine stand all by myself!
20170513_122802.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #82
I got the engine disassembled. The previous owner used dinosaur oil so it's very sludgy. It appears they changed it often enough because there is not a lot of wear. The bores appear to be stock 95mm. I don't see a lot of scoring so maybe I can get by with just honing. I need to pull out the pistons and see if the bores are still round or ovaled before deciding to bore larger or just hone. Now I am soaking things in degreaser and will get the rust off the outside of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I started a thread to get advice about the engine build here: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/13-performance/192345-3rz-turbo-forged-rod-piston-engine-build-new-post.html

Today I purchased four used 2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4 Stage 2 500cc injectors for $80 to replace the Dodge Neon 200cc secondary injectors I have been using. With the Evo X 550cc primary injectors and new 500cc secondary injectors I should have enough E85 fuel to support my 441whp goal which is limited by my clutch's torque capacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #84 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #85
I pumped in some E85 today. The gas light was on but there was still probably 2 gallons of pump gas left in the tank. The ethanol sensor said E70 after mixing in the E85. On E70 it makes around 17psi above 5k rpm.

https://youtu.be/1eDZso2sO4c
 

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
I just purchased a new unused Kazuma TRD limited slip differential off ebay for $250! I have been searching for a good deal on one for years. The best deal I found previously was for $325 and when I went to buy it they told me they were out of stock. These Kazumas are pre-tensioned to 400 ft-lbs as opposed to the 200ft-lb pre-tension units that were factory installed in some Toyota trucks.

As for the engine build. The engine is still on the stand and I am waiting for my mechanic to get over the flu. In the next week or two if he survives the flu he should be able to complete the installation of the 5858 turbo kit he is putting in my Evo X then when that is done I can drive my Evo and he can work on the engine swap for my Taco. I'll have him put in the Kazuma LSD also.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
I dropped the Taco off at the mechanic for the engine swap and limited slip install two days ago. He said it may take a few weeks due to other projects in front of it. He did an excellent job on my Evo X Precision 5858 turbo kit install and a few other jobs I have sent his way so I have a lot of confidence in his abilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I picked up the Tacoma from the mechanic today. It was around $1500 for the engine swap labor. They billed it at 20 hours labor plus they had to buy a few belts and a temp sensor. They test drove it a short distance and it had no leaks. I drove it to work 10 miles away and it developed two very slow coolant leaks. One was the thermostat gasket which was probably reused instead of replaced. The other was the gasket where the water comes out of the cylinder head into the radiator hose. I'll fix the leaks tomorrow if I have time. I want to take the truck 50 miles away to go camping but only if it doesn't leak anything.

I installed the Dodge Neon SRT-4 500cc secondary injectors while the intake was off so now it has 550cc primaries + 500cc secondaries = 1050cc of fuel total. That should be enough to get it to the 441whp goal that is limited by clutch torque capacity.

The higher compression engine did want slightly more fuel in the tune everywhere. Probably because volumetric efficiency was increased. Higher compression makes the engine a more efficient air pump so more fuel is necessary to match the larger volume of air moving through the engine at any given rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I have driven it easy 120 miles so far and changed the oil today. The coolant leak is fixed but I have a slow oil seep on the passenger side where the timing cover meets the head gasket. It's slow so no big deal I'll fix it eventually by taking the valve cover off to see why it's leaking. I'm just happy to be driving it again. It does have more torque and spools the turbo at lower rpm and spools it faster with the higher compression. So far I have just been running 93 octane pump gas for break in but I can already tell it's going to be a whole lot of fun on E85! The Dodge Neon SRT-4 secondary injectors I put in all seem to work fine. I haven't had the mechanic put the LSD in yet because he is really busy lately but I'll get it in before next winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #91 (Edited)
I found out my Megasquirt has a 2.5 bar MAP sensor in it. I can't log boost above about 23 psi with that built in MAP sensor. I decided to just try to tune it in at 23psi and see what it will do for now. I also had a local shop install a Kazuma TRD limited slip differential recently. That shop also installed a used Tundra Racing adjustable height rear lowering kit.

The Kazuma LSD is an incredible transformation from the open rear differential that came stock on this truck. There is much better traction all the time now. It does really nice burn outs leaving two tire marks on the pavement now. The LSD makes me feel much more confident the rear end won't have any problems on the drag strip or going around turns under power.

The mechanic didn't read the directions for the rear lowering kit right and installed the overload springs with the arches upward. It is riding on the overload springs all the time right now. It is surprisingly tolerable on flat roads and around corners but if you hit a big bump the rear end kicks up really bad so that has to be fixed.

The Kazuma TRD LSD is just what this truck needed. The lock up is just light enough to allow it to not chirp a tire navigating a tight parking lot doing low speed tight turns. Under power it feels a lot like a spool the tires are spinning at the same speed.

I started looking into what the pros do to hook up and found a great video of a Chevy Nova that has a very similar rear leaf spring setup here:

The traction bars are Caltracs. They seem to be the ideal traction bar setup since so many fast leaf spring vehicles use them.

As you can see in the video really soft leaf springs are ideal for weight transfer. In order to do that I will need to remove the overload springs.

I ordered Monroe MA727 air shocks today to allow me to remove the overload springs. The air shocks can be pressurized to allow me to occasionally use this truck to haul heavy things in the bed and tow trailers when I need to without the need for the overload springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I removed the overload springs and added the Monroe air shocks. The rear end feels so much better now. It's a soft smooth ride when the air shocks have low pressure but if I need to tow or haul I can pump them up to keep it level. The traction bars keep the leaf springs from wrapping without the overload springs just fine. The Kazuma TRD limited slip differential really helped with rear traction. It allows nice oversteer drifts if I get on the throttle mid turn. In a straight line the rear tires just grip and go now. I drive a lot more in 2wd now after installing the Kazuma LSD.

The MAP sensor soldered to the Megasquirt is not easy to swap out for one with higher pressure range. I would have to de-solder and re-solder a different sensor on. My injectors, fuel pump, clutch, ignition coils, etc are all very close to maxed out.

The truck is a whole lot of fun right now and I have been daily driving it all winter. It's a riot and I am really enjoying 413whp and 479wtq in a daily driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
I finally made it back to the drag strip today! It was a hot 83 degree evening but I finally had some time to get runs in to see what the Taco could do. It ran a best time of 13.136 at 106.05 mph with E69 in the fuel tank.

I would have much rather had E85 in the tank but the Kroger gas station near my house doesn't ever have higher ethanol content than E70 for some reason. I'm confident I can get it in the 12's with some cooler weather and higher ethanol content. It felt really good at the drag strip. The traction bars, limited slip differential, and overload spring delete combination launched very well and I was able to do a fairly good 1.919 60' in 4wd with Michelin AT2 tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
That trip to the drag strip made me want two things.

1. A better shifting transmission.
2. More rpm range for more horsepower!

I found forum posts where many Toyota Supra owners that had older R series transmissions were using a mixture of Redline MT-90 and Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oils. I have been using Redline MT-90 for a few years and it worked except for high rpm shifts. I drained my transmission and put in a 50/50 mix of the two and WOW it shifts so much better at all rpms! I can now shift into 3rd gear at 6500rpm.

So since I can shift at high rpm I decided I need cams and valve springs. After some discussion with some knowledgeable people on Facebook in the 2/3RZ Turbo Community I bought Kelford 180-A cams and 77lb Supertech valve springs with titanium retainers.

I used the "compressed air method" to hold up the valves and was able to change the valve springs with the head on the block. The intake cam is so big I had to grind quite a bit of material so the lobes had clearance to rotate. I am tuning it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
Kelford 180-A cams and Supertech 77lb valve springs really improved the air flow. I was surprised at how much more power it was able to make with just cams and valve springs. With the 550cc primary injectors and 500 secondaries I was able to get just over the 500whp out of it at 100% injector duty cycle. Running the injectors above 90% makes tuning impossible because they start to stick wide open and they don't all do it at the same time so running it like this was not ideal. I installed Paradise Racing's drop in 1000cc injectors in place of my 550cc Evo X primaries. The drop in 1000cc's fit fine but the connector adapters didn't arrive in the box with them so if you order them remind them to put them in the box. It wasn't a big problem since they did come with pigtails so I cut my stock connectors off and installed the EV14 pigtail connectors. The Paradise Racing 1000cc injectors idle smoother than my 550cc Evo X injectors! It was easy to change injector scaling in Megasquirt to adapt to the new larger injectors. I did have to do some tweaking of the fuel maps to make them work but it runs better than ever now. To be able to support 6000cc of fuel at high pressure I decided to retire my aging Vortech T-Rex fuel pump and replace it with a genuine Bosch 044 inline fuel pump I ordered from our site sponsor www.rockauto.com. Rockauto provided a brand new Bosch 044 that was not a knock off. On the rockauto website the pump I ordered is part number Bosch 61944. It had a scannable bar code on it and I was able to verify it was genuine online. Many of these are knock offs and don't flow as much so don't buy them from anywhere but rockauto if you can avoid it. It is on the same 1psi Hobbs boost pressure switch as the old inline fuel pump so it doesn't run unless in boost. The Evo X fuel pump is still in the tank. The two fuel pumps work well together. I posted a video of a 3rd gear pull to 7k rpm which was 107mph here: https://youtu.be/kwaxI2RzOgU
 

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Discussion Starter #96

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Discussion Starter #97
I went to the drag strip tonight. I did some re-tuning and turned the Tacoma's boost up to 32psi this week. It ran great on the street with normal launches while tuning. The first launch tonight at Edgewater it loosened an intercooler pipe and it popped off. I reinstalled it at the track twice and it popped off all three runs. I'm going to need a larger bead on the pipe and a better t-bolt band clamp than the one on it now to hold 32psi. I may need to double t-bolt clamp it. I tried to go easy on the launch in the video since it came off on the 1-2 shift the first two runs. I though it was going to hold until it came loose again at the top of 3rd gear. I did beat that civic with no boost in 4th gear lol.

https://youtu.be/mK4wc2xO07k
 

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Discussion Starter #98 (Edited)
I had an intercooler pipe that kept blowing off at the drag strip so I made a bead crimping tool and made much larger beads on all my intercooler pipes. They no longer blow off. The drag strip is closed for the season so I bought a Dragy. The Dragy is awesome I can come to a stop anywhere and launch and because it knows I was at 0 mph it starts recording. It also allows me to compare my acceleration visually with other vehicles. Here are two screenshots side by side. The first is my Taco with a lot of spinning in 4wd on a non drag strip road surface and the other is a 2000 Taco that is probably a 2wd with drag slicks on a drag strip surface. I obviously need to get some sticky rear tires so I can launch harder in 2wd and shift faster to run quicker et's. Right now my all terrain tires both spin in 2wd if I floor it in 3rd gear above 3500rpm when the boost hits so I haven't attempted a 1/4 mile run in 2wd yet until I get some stickier tires. It's awesome seeing black marks on the road in the rear view mirror at highway speed but not great for running good drag times! Notice in the graph below how my truck is actually accelerating faster in 2nd and 3rd gear than the 12 second truck. The crappy launch and slow granny shifting is killing my times! I'm granny shifting like I did before the new 50/50 MT-90/Lightweight Shockproof cocktail. It doesn't grind now ever so I need to try some powershifting.
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Are you using a short shifter kit? I used the on from URD and it reduced the throw significantly reducing shift times.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Are you using a short shifter kit? I used the on from URD and it reduced the throw significantly reducing shift times.
Yeah i have a short shifter.
 
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