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Discussion Starter #61
Two weeks ago I welded my open dump wastegate into my 3" exhaust pipe. It sounds much better now but had the paradoxical side effect of lowering my boost pressure by about 2psi. Boost became 9 psi, then 10 at 4500, then 11 at 5000+ with the same EBC duty cycle settings as before the changes to the wastegate's exhaust plumbing.

I finally made it to the dragstrip today. I didn't blow anything up so I'd call it a success. My times weren't phenomenal but pretty close to expected. 14.533 @ 93.75 mph. My 2.159 60' wasn't good but was a smooth launch with a pretty good chirp from the front left and right rear tire. I revved to 4500 and let out the clutch quickly. I didn't use the 2 step today I'll save that for later it needs more tuning to work well. When I ran those times through a drag time to horsepower calculator it comes out to about 240hp. I need to get the boost back up to 12 psi and run more timing with a better launch next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
I learned a lot from the 1/4 mile passes. I mostly learned the 3rz can take a good bit more boost. I spent some time this week street tuning. I went as high as 15 psi and the 3rz it didnt care. I backed it off to 13psi and added some timing when running on e85. Here is a datalog I did today to 5450rpm. I maxed out fuel from both primary and secondary injectors running e85 at 13psi. You can see the stock cylinder head and cam just stop flowing at about 5450 the red rpm line goes flat. No point revving higher than that at 13psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I just now placed an order with diyautotune.com for a MegaSquirt-III EMS System with MS3X Expansion V3.57 - Assembled Unit and the necessary wiring pigtails. The Mapecu3 has been great getting me this far. I have maxed out the injectors I'm currently using and want to run ID 1000 injectors so it's time to go beyond the piggyback. The Megasquirt with MS3X Expansion V3.57 has the features I want in a standalone.

I was also considering Haltech Sprint 500 but it doesn't have flex fuel capability. Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 does have flex fuel but costs quite a bit more. I also looked at KORacing's Hydra EMS after boostedka told me about it. I decided against it mostly because I don't know of anyone who has used it so all support would have to come from Hydra ($75 phone support fee) or KORacing. I settled on the Megasquirt because others have used it, base maps are available for free, and there is a lot of free support on multiple forums.

My plan is to follow the wiring diagram laid out here: http://www.2rzturbo.net/?page_id=613
There will be some minor differences because my truck is coil on plug and theirs was a two coil. I'll be reusing the my URD Type D Plug N Play harness adapter so I won't have to cut factory wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
My Megasquirt wiring harnesses came in the mail today ahead of the Megasquirt ECU itself. I started on the wiring. The diagram on 2rzturbo.net was very helpful.

The writing on each wire is invaluable. Without the writing on each wire it would have been a much slower process. I was surprised how fast I was able to finish. It took me about 4 hours to do all the harness connections. I still need to wire the many harness grounds to a single grounding point then wire my Innovate wideband into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
I finished the wiring today. Since I have a piggyback wiring harness I decided to let the stock ecu control cruise control, A/C, Ignition, & fuel pump. Doing this really simplified the wiring. The Megasquirt is doing all the important work. Here is how I wired it into the piggyback harness:

Megasquirt = Tacoma wire naming system
------------------------------------------------
Red-12V+ = B+ (I have 12V power still going to stock ecu also)
Light Blue-TPS = VTA
Gray-VREF = VC
White-VR+ = NE+ (VR+, VR-, are in a shielded cable. I did not connect the cable shield to ground I taped the shield lead it to itself)
Black-VR- = NE-
Shielded ground = not connected
Coolant temp = THW
Air Temp = THA (I plan to eventually connect a GM air temp sensor in place of the OEM temp sensor built into the MAF sensor)

MS3X Harness = Tacoma wire naming system
---------------------------------------------------
Injector A = #10
Injector B = #20
Injector C = #30
Injector D = #40
Pin 9 Idle valve = RSD
Spark A = IGT1
Spark B = IGT2
Spark C = IGT3
Spark D = IGT4

I also wired in my wideband analog output to the pink O2 input wire and wired my flex fuel sensor into its input. I connected all the grounds to one single grounding point. I got an e-mail saying it may be a few days until they can ship out my Megasquirt but hopefully it will arrive soon.
 

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The firing order is wrong in my previous post. 3rz firing order is 1,3,4,2 so it needs to be connected like this:

MS3X Harness = Tacoma wire naming system
---------------------------------------------------
Spark A = IGT1
Spark B = IGT3
Spark C = IGT4
Spark D = IGT2

It ran for about 3 seconds at a time yesterday then died. I traced the problem to fuel pressure. When I was cranking fuel pressure was fine then when the engine started and was running it would drop to zero. I believe the problem is I only have the crankshaft position (VR+/VR-) sensor connected to the Megasquirt. I will connect the crank sensor to the stock ecu in addition to the Megasquirt tonight. That way they both get the signal. The stock ecu needs that signal to make the tach work anyway. I just didn't hook it up properly. It was nice to hear it run though even if it was only a few seconds!

I did have to open the Megasquirt box and remove one jumper then turn all four potentiometers 7 turns anti-clockwise to zero them then one turn clockwise. That allowed it to pick up the signal from the 3rz crankshaft position (VR+/VR-) sensor. It wasn't too difficult.




I had some 550cc Evo X injectors on the shelf and to my surprise the electric connector fits the Tacoma. After doing some comparing I'm pretty sure they will fit as long as the exceptionally long extended tips don't touch the intake valves. I ordered 14mm to 11mm adapters for the tops and new rubber seals for the bottoms. On the bottom I popped off the plastic ring then the Tacoma bottom seal fit perfectly. Here they are side by side. Top one is stock Evo X, middle is my modified Evo X injector, bottom is Tacoma pink injector. My modified Evo X injector may be slightly taller than the pink injector but I think I can make that up by raising the fuel rail a little with washers.

 

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It runs! I drove to the store and back. Connecting the crankshaft position sensor to the stock ecu did the trick. The tach works as usual also. I am running a basemap from a 2rz so I go lean when I rev high or use lots of throttle but that's to be expected. I'm driving it to work tomorrow to get good logs for tuning. The information on 2rzturbo.net was invaluable and saved me a whole lot of time.

Here are the settings to make a 2002 COP run in batch fire and wasted spark. I have not yet connected my cam position sensor to be able to do sequential injection or sequential COP. Maybe someday. The software and hardware are very easy to use once connected properly. This is going to be so much easier than tuning a piggyback because the datalogs include everything. With the piggyback the only way to log the stock ecu timing was with the OBDII port. The data rate was around 2 per second. So if you did a full throttle run in one gear that usually takes 3-4 seconds. You would get 6-8 data points. That's not enough data to tune. Megasquirt can log 100 data points per second!

 

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The Evo X injectors fit great and work well! I raised the fuel rail 1/8" by adding two 1/16" thick washers under each of the two bolts that hold the fuel rail down. The long projected tips were no problem at all. There is about 2" of open space below each fuel injector and the Evo X injectors only stick down about 5/8". I typed in 550cc injector scaling in place of the 275cc I was using for the stock pink injectors (they are 320cc but 275cc worked better) and it fired right up. Here they are side by side (note: the Evo X injector has an aluminum 14mm to 11mm adaptor on top of it):



I upgraded from the free version of Tunerstudio to the "Ultra" version for $99 today. I really wanted the Ultra version's integrated live logger and paid the $30 extra over buying the regular registered version for this very nice feature. I also saved about $30 because I don't have to buy the separate Megalogviewer program since the Ultra version has the logger built in. I think the Ultra version is the best value because it is an all in one program. The free version also didn't have the "VE Analyze Live - Auto Tune" feature that auto tunes. That is a must have feature. I used it on the drive home today and am very impressed with auto tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
It fits! I took out the passenger side air vent tube. That left a space that was the perfect size for the Megasquirt. I was able to arrange the wires so I could reinstall the glove box. I'm glad it fit in that space. I was a little worried. I attached photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
A crack in a vacuum line interrupted my tuning for three days. I couldn't find the leak and had to do lots of testing. I also hooked up my GM knock module so I can log knock and have closed loop knock control. I wanted to do that so I can be sure my timing isn't too aggressive. It is unfortunate the connection point for the knock module required additional things to be soldered to the main circuit board. With all the wires coming out of this thing you would think they would have one to connect to a GM knock module. Oh well I got it done and I did log a small amount of knock already while tuning so I know it's working. I need to get back to tuning now!

Virtual Dyno can open Megasquirt logs! I can open any full throttle log and see how much power it's making like the one I attached. It made [email protected] and [email protected] at only 7.5psi. It was too lean so I let off at 4333rpm.

One more other thing I was just looking into knock modules to see if Haltech standalones support them easier than the soldering I did. It seems Haltech doesn't support knock inputs on the Sprint 500 or Platinum Sport 1000. If you want a Haltech and want to log knock the best solution is to make a GM knock module work as a Haltech analog input. I think I like the Megasquirt system better. Here is how to do closed loop knock with a Haltech: http://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/closed-loop-knock-control-haltech-ecus-583563/

I'm glad I got the Megasquirt now. I like knowing if my engine is knocking. I don't like changing head gaskets, fixing bent rods, broken pistons, etc. It seems like it would be important enough to be an included feature on any standalone.
 

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The Megasquirt is making good power. I did some road tuning and got the fuel, timing, and boost control dialed in enough to do some full throttle runs. I logged a run with peak boost of [email protected], made it drop boost down to 8psi to limit peak torque, then raised it back to [email protected] to redline.



Here is my datalog of this run: http://hironsmemorials.com/2017-02-08_17.37.04.msl
(you can open it with any spreadsheet program like Excel)

Here is my tune: http://hironsmemorials.com/2017-02-08_21.13.06.msq
(you can download Megasquirt Tunerstudio for free and open this to view all the tables and settings)

My 550cc Evo X primary injectors were maxed out at 100% duty cycle on a previous run at only 8psi near redline so I connected my four 200cc secondary injectors to the Megasquirt. I did the run above with the primary and secondary injectors all at 100% near redline.

There's no telling how much power it is making until I get to the drag strip but Virtual Dyno does help show what rpm power is being made at. I did have some knock in the log so I need to retard timing in a couple places. Then I will try adding a little more boost in the 4500-5250rpm range.
 

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Here is the latest Virtual Dyno with 11psi up top and no knock. Virtual Dyno is estimating 311hp and 324tq. This was on 93 octane. I'm pretty sure my secondary injectors aren't working because I'm at 100% duty cycle on the 550cc injectors and that is right where I should be to make 311hp at the wheels. I need to check my wiring to get the secondaries working so I can run E85 and make even more power!

 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
I did some testing and found out the secondary injectors were working. I put my fuel pressure gauge on the windshield so I could see it while driving and that was the problem! Fuel pressure dropped below 30psi in full boost near redline. I traced the problem to me not hooking up the ground for the inline fuel pump to the new battery I put in last month. My air/fuel ratio was fine but I was running 550cc and 200cc injectors at 100% duty cycle with only 30psi of fuel pressure from the stock fuel pump. While I had the hood open I also noticed the fuel injector on the #1 cylinder was leaking a little fuel so I need to fix that also. I did all that tuning without proper fuel pressure so now I need to retune everything again once I fix these things.

Update: I figured out why #1 injector seal was leaking. Toyota 204 o-rings are supposed to be 7.7mm ID x 2.15mm Diameter. The brand new no name injector o-ring I used that was supposed to fit the 3rz was 1.8mm diameter. No wonder it is leaking. I went to the auto parts store and got Fel-Pro o-rings part# ES70600 and they are the right diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
The Fel-pro injector o-ring fixed the leak! My tune is now way off. It idles at 21in.Hg now that all the injectors are getting the same amount of fuel. It was idling at 18in.Hg when the #1 injector was leaking. I tested the inline fuel pump and it is now working as it should. It turns on at 1psi. Now I need to get back to tuning!

I should now have just barely enough fuel to make 350hp on E85 with the 550cc and 200cc injectors running near 100% if my Vortech T-Rex inline fuel pump can maintain the pressure at the high flow rate of 3000cc/[email protected] fuel pressure (750cc*[email protected] base pressure + 16psi boost = 59.5psi). This is the third vehicle the Vortech T-Rex has been in since I bought it 13 years ago in 2004. When new it was rated at [email protected] In metric that is 3155cc/[email protected] It was barely adequate for the flow rate I need to use E85 when it was new. It probably helps flow a lot when the in tank pump feeds the inline pump. In any case I'll keep a close eye on fuel pressure while tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I got 93 octane tuned pretty well to 311hp (blue lines). I switched to tuning E85 (green lines). The tune is still pretty rough but it's making 334hp 355tq now. I'll keep working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Things are progressing nicely. Tuning has lead to 345hp and 340tq on E85. I should also note by E85 I actually mean E60 because that is what came out of the pump the last two fill ups. In the winter here it is supposed to be E70 but E60 comes out of the pump. My flex fuel sensor will compensate for higher ethanol percentage when E85 comes back to the pump in spring and increase fuel volume and timing. It will make more power on E85 but there is no way to know how much right now. From past experience it may be 10-20hp and torque more. My butt dyno is already saying it pulls harder than ever before!

 

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Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
More power! 365hp 377tq. 13.8psi peak. 75% injector duty cycle on E65 (winter blend E85).

 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
Today was 75 degrees. The last 365hp run I posted was done at 57 degrees. I lost some horsepower due to the warmer air temperature but I worked on the tune and smoothed out the torque curve. Peak boost was 15.3psi. Injector duty cycle was 79.5%. Ethanol content was E66.

 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #80
There was a 165k mile 3rz posted on craigslist yesterday for $500. I couldn't resist. Now I have an engine build project. I'm going to need some forged rods and pistons!
 

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