So, if you're like me, you wait until the squeal from your clutch pedal is driving you absolutely insane then you do something about it. Replacing the clutch pedal bushings is a fairly straight forward project. It also seems to be a near annual event for my truck. You will need the new bushings, a few tools, and an hour or so to complete the replacement.

Toyota Part Numbers for Replacement Bushings:
90386-05018 - 2 ea (Round for the sides of the spring)
90389-05017 - 1 ea (U-shaped for the center of the spring/pedal groove)
90386-13007 - 2 ea (Round for the center pivot tube of the clutch pedal)
90386-08002 - 1 ea (fork plunger through pin bushing)
90949-03022 - 1 ea (spring)

Tools used:
3/8 ratchet
Various ratchet extensions
14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets
14mm wrench
Philips/Standard screwdriver
Channel locks
Grease
Brute strength

1. Refer to the Dash Take-Apart Instructions, Steps 6, 7 & 8 to give your self some working room.

2. Remove the 12mm bolt from under the dash. This is where a long ratchet extension comes in handy. A universal ratchet joint may be used as well, but I found it to be more of a pain to try to get it to line up with the angle of the bolt.

3. Pop the hood to access the clutch master cylinder (CMC). There are two 12mm nuts that are on the body of the CMC that attach to studs that go through the firewall. These two studs are holding the clutch pedal assembly to firewall under the dash inside the cab. Once the two nuts are removed, GENTLY pull the CMC towards the front of the truck to free the studs from the CMC. WARNING - the CMC is plumbed with solid tubing. Be very careful in moving the CMC around to avoid kinking the lines!

4. The clutch pedal assembly is now free of the firewall. You must now get back under the dash to access the fork/plunger assembly that attaches the clutch pedal to the CMC. The fork/plunger is connected to the clutch pedal via a trough-pin that is held in place by two small tension washers and a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and push the through-pin out of the assembly. BE CAFEFUL to account for the two small tension washers that are on either side of the through-pin, they are easy to loose. Remove the two electrical connections on either side of the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal assembly should now be completely free and can be removed with a little creative wiggling. Again, be careful not to be to forceful with the fork/plunger connected to the CMC.

5. Once the pedal assembly is removed you can inspect the bushings for replacement. If one is shot, chances are the others are as well. Considering you have the entire pedal out of the truck, you may as well replace all the bushings while you have easy access to the assembly. The center spring bushing is the main culprit of the squeaking that you hear when depressing the pedal. It eventually gets eaten away allowing for that great metal-on-metal squeal.

6. Removing the spring is a bit of a pain. I accomplished this by securing the pedal assembly in a vice and squeezing each coil on the spring with the channel locks. I then pried the end of the spring out with a screwdriver. Don't worry about messing up the bushing as it's going to get replaced. Once one side was out it was easy to wrangle the other side out. The old bushings were then cut out of the assembly or simply fell out due to wear.

7. Remove the pedal from the assembly using the 14mm socket and wrench. When the nut is removed the bolt will slide through the assembly and the pedal can be removed. When the pedal is free of the assembly pivot tube and bushings can be removed.

8. Old vs. New

From left to right: Center pivot tube bushings, U-shaped spring bushing, round side spring bushings.

9. Clean and re-grease the pivot tube and bushing. Re-install the pivot tube and bushings into the pedal and then install the pedal into the assembly.

10. Install and grease the three remaining bushings. Tip: For the side bushings, I used the channel locks to squeeze them into place then tapped them in the rest of the way with the screwdriver.

11. Re-install the spring. Here's where the brute force tool comes in handy. The spring is a little reluctant to get back into its perch. I placed one end of the spring into the side bushing and the center of the spring into the U-shaped bushing and pedal. **Make sure you have the spring facing the right way before you get too far! I then used a large screwdriver placed through the spring and levered on it. The spring then compressed enough to where I could muscle it back into place. This step is what took the longest and caused me to curse the most.

12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Keep in mind not to move the CMC too much. If it all possible, have an extra set of hands hold the pedal assembly to the firewall while you re-bolt the CMC. When reattaching the fork/plunger of the CMC to the clutch pedal (See step 4) make sure you re-install the two little tension washers on the through-pin.

A word of advice; although the replacement of the bushings is not terribly difficult, if your truck is still under warranty when you get the clutch pedal squeal, take it to the dealer.