Hey everyone, it was definately hard to find information about Tacoma 4Runner/Tundra brake swaps so I hope this will help everyone out. I'm hoping to get as much information into one place as possible. As far as I know this information is correct, but if not please let me know with a PM. Some of the terms I used might not be correct, but bare with me. If theres anything else to ad please do! To my knowledge, this is the first Tundra to Tacoma caliper uprade. Thanks the 4 Runner gurus at Yotatech and to George4drV6 for his insights.
The Truck (heavy weighted modifications):
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4x4.
-Supercharged w/7th injector.
-Rear Demello hybrid bumper, “heavy duty” sliders.
-Front ARB bumper
-33 BFG All-terrains.
-1” steel wheel spacer.
-eDead sound deadening on doors and roof. Acoustiblok floor and firewall (approx 75 lbs total).
The Problem:
-Because of the heavier modifications and larger wheel size, the stock brakes where not able to stop the vehicle in emergency situations. Maximum braking power was about 50-60% of the pedal travel, further depressing the pedal would not increase braking power.
-Brake fluid would overheat causing the fluid to break down, or the brake components to breakdown internally causing the brake fluid to be contaminated (pictures below). Brakes would have to be bleed every 2 weeks or so, and would come out black. Brakes continue to loose compression resistance, and pedal feel would slowly become more and more “spongy.”
-Freeways where a nightmare and sudden yellow lights would leave my truck about 2/3rds in intersection at about 45 mph.
-Nearly impossible to tow.
Solution:
-199mm S13WE brake calipers from 99 to 03 Tundra with 12.5” rotors.
-Larger rotors, larger pistons.
Required materials:
-S13WE brake calipers and corresponding rotors. I ordered “2001 Toyota Tundra v8 4x4” parts at the auto parts store.
-Brake pads.
-16” wheels, with proper backspacing. (Possibly 4” backspacing, I used 4.5” with ample room left)
-Brake fluid.
Required tools:
-Drill and bits.
-14mm and 17mm sockets, 10mm wrench, lug nut wrench.
-Jack and jack-stands.
Modifications required:
-Bending the dust cover / disk shield.
-Drilling out the end of the banjo bolt approx 1/8”-1/4” deep.
Cost Total - $305.61:
-S13WE calipers $90 from eBay.
-Rotors from AutoZone $165 w/tax.
-Performance Friction brake pads (Same as TRD brake pad) w/Lifetime warranty at AutoZone $44.16 w/tax.
-Dot 3/ Dot 4 brake fluid $6.45 w/tax at Pep-Boys.
Time:
-Approx 2 to 3 hours.
Driving Impressions:
-Incredible improvement over stock brakes. As good as stock braking with stock tires, if not slightly better. A MUST for double cab Tacomas with 33” tires. I will post a side by side braking comparison with a similarly setup truck later.
FAQ:
Q: I was just googling for S13WE, and came across a thread at Tundra Solutions about a TSB on these calipers, and that post-TSB, they put in 13WL calipers in Tundras. Any clue why the S13WE was removed? Can the 13WL be used? Is it safer?
A: S13WE were the ones used for Tundras before 04 or 03 (cant remember). The Tundras were getting problems with quick brake pad wear and rotor warping, so they were replaced with S13WL 231mm calipers. Im not sure if they use the same rotor, but the phisical size of the caliper is much larger then the 199mm S13WE. The older S13WE were not recalled due to safety concerns or failures, but quick wear and warping. Those aren't as abundant ether, while there are many more S13WE availible due to the recall. They're too weak for Tundras (larger models), but very strong for my Double Cab 4x4 Tacoma with trail armor and 33's.
Q: Do you have to use the wheel spacers ?
A: I think that with aftermarket rims with 4.5" backspacing SHOULD have no problem, but might depending on the design. Since I have stock rims, I used a spacer, but it seems like there is ample space behind the wheel about 0.5 to 0.7" of an inch at the closest point from the rim to the caliper. Keep in mind different wheels have different designs in the back, so there might not be a single answer.
Q: Will this work on a 2wd prerun?
A: From what I gathered, it should work on 6 lug 2001 to 2004 Tacomas. 95.5 to 00 Should not have a problem ether, but I'm not certian.
Q: Will the stock master cylinder work?
A: So far the stock master cylinder works great. The travel on the pedal feels about the same as before. Some have stated that the 4 Runner and Tundra master brake cylinder looks the same size externally, but are unsure of actual volume.
Other Notes:
-Might be possible to swap the larger S13WL brake calipers also, but with trimming or removal of the dust cover.
-Does not interfere with Donahoe Racing coil-overs (the banjo does not come into contact with the lower coil mount on full lock and full droop).
-Calipers approximately same height and length, but slightly wider (see picture).
-4 Runners and Tundras front brakes are connected by a metal brake line and a flare nut. Tacomas use banjo bolts. The flare nut and banjo bolt are 10mm x 1.0 thread. The banjo bolt will fit into 4 runner / Tundra calipers with minor modification (see below).
Pictures and How-To:
Stock calipers and rotors.
The Tundra caliper test fitted with stock rotor.
Notice how the pistons stick further out compared to the stock rotor.
The modified banjo bolt. I used a large drill bit to drill down enough to where the material was removed upto the start of the thread, but not removing any thread. The angle on the drill bit was perfect depth. I also widened the center of the banjo with a smaller drill bit. There is a "nipple" at the bottom of the caliper connection, and the banjo will hit that before properly seating all the way if you do not remove some material at the end of the banjo bolt. When you tighten this bolt, make sure you get a snug connection between the bolt head, washers and banjo, and not the tip of the banjo bolt and the "nipple" inside the caliper.
Comparison of the Tacoma rotor (top) and the Tundra rotor (bottom).
Side view comparison.
Tundra rotor and stock dust cover. The dust cover is easily bent backwards. It is not nessessary to grind or cut any of the dust cover to fit the Tundra calipers.
The Truck (heavy weighted modifications):
-2004 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4x4.
-Supercharged w/7th injector.
-Rear Demello hybrid bumper, “heavy duty” sliders.
-Front ARB bumper
-33 BFG All-terrains.
-1” steel wheel spacer.
-eDead sound deadening on doors and roof. Acoustiblok floor and firewall (approx 75 lbs total).
The Problem:
-Because of the heavier modifications and larger wheel size, the stock brakes where not able to stop the vehicle in emergency situations. Maximum braking power was about 50-60% of the pedal travel, further depressing the pedal would not increase braking power.
-Brake fluid would overheat causing the fluid to break down, or the brake components to breakdown internally causing the brake fluid to be contaminated (pictures below). Brakes would have to be bleed every 2 weeks or so, and would come out black. Brakes continue to loose compression resistance, and pedal feel would slowly become more and more “spongy.”
-Freeways where a nightmare and sudden yellow lights would leave my truck about 2/3rds in intersection at about 45 mph.
-Nearly impossible to tow.
Solution:
-199mm S13WE brake calipers from 99 to 03 Tundra with 12.5” rotors.
-Larger rotors, larger pistons.
Required materials:
-S13WE brake calipers and corresponding rotors. I ordered “2001 Toyota Tundra v8 4x4” parts at the auto parts store.
-Brake pads.
-16” wheels, with proper backspacing. (Possibly 4” backspacing, I used 4.5” with ample room left)
-Brake fluid.
Required tools:
-Drill and bits.
-14mm and 17mm sockets, 10mm wrench, lug nut wrench.
-Jack and jack-stands.
Modifications required:
-Bending the dust cover / disk shield.
-Drilling out the end of the banjo bolt approx 1/8”-1/4” deep.
Cost Total - $305.61:
-S13WE calipers $90 from eBay.
-Rotors from AutoZone $165 w/tax.
-Performance Friction brake pads (Same as TRD brake pad) w/Lifetime warranty at AutoZone $44.16 w/tax.
-Dot 3/ Dot 4 brake fluid $6.45 w/tax at Pep-Boys.
Time:
-Approx 2 to 3 hours.
Driving Impressions:
-Incredible improvement over stock brakes. As good as stock braking with stock tires, if not slightly better. A MUST for double cab Tacomas with 33” tires. I will post a side by side braking comparison with a similarly setup truck later.
FAQ:
Q: I was just googling for S13WE, and came across a thread at Tundra Solutions about a TSB on these calipers, and that post-TSB, they put in 13WL calipers in Tundras. Any clue why the S13WE was removed? Can the 13WL be used? Is it safer?
A: S13WE were the ones used for Tundras before 04 or 03 (cant remember). The Tundras were getting problems with quick brake pad wear and rotor warping, so they were replaced with S13WL 231mm calipers. Im not sure if they use the same rotor, but the phisical size of the caliper is much larger then the 199mm S13WE. The older S13WE were not recalled due to safety concerns or failures, but quick wear and warping. Those aren't as abundant ether, while there are many more S13WE availible due to the recall. They're too weak for Tundras (larger models), but very strong for my Double Cab 4x4 Tacoma with trail armor and 33's.
Q: Do you have to use the wheel spacers ?
A: I think that with aftermarket rims with 4.5" backspacing SHOULD have no problem, but might depending on the design. Since I have stock rims, I used a spacer, but it seems like there is ample space behind the wheel about 0.5 to 0.7" of an inch at the closest point from the rim to the caliper. Keep in mind different wheels have different designs in the back, so there might not be a single answer.
Q: Will this work on a 2wd prerun?
A: From what I gathered, it should work on 6 lug 2001 to 2004 Tacomas. 95.5 to 00 Should not have a problem ether, but I'm not certian.
Q: Will the stock master cylinder work?
A: So far the stock master cylinder works great. The travel on the pedal feels about the same as before. Some have stated that the 4 Runner and Tundra master brake cylinder looks the same size externally, but are unsure of actual volume.
Other Notes:
-Might be possible to swap the larger S13WL brake calipers also, but with trimming or removal of the dust cover.
-Does not interfere with Donahoe Racing coil-overs (the banjo does not come into contact with the lower coil mount on full lock and full droop).
-Calipers approximately same height and length, but slightly wider (see picture).
-4 Runners and Tundras front brakes are connected by a metal brake line and a flare nut. Tacomas use banjo bolts. The flare nut and banjo bolt are 10mm x 1.0 thread. The banjo bolt will fit into 4 runner / Tundra calipers with minor modification (see below).
Pictures and How-To:
Stock calipers and rotors.
The Tundra caliper test fitted with stock rotor.
Notice how the pistons stick further out compared to the stock rotor.
The modified banjo bolt. I used a large drill bit to drill down enough to where the material was removed upto the start of the thread, but not removing any thread. The angle on the drill bit was perfect depth. I also widened the center of the banjo with a smaller drill bit. There is a "nipple" at the bottom of the caliper connection, and the banjo will hit that before properly seating all the way if you do not remove some material at the end of the banjo bolt. When you tighten this bolt, make sure you get a snug connection between the bolt head, washers and banjo, and not the tip of the banjo bolt and the "nipple" inside the caliper.
Comparison of the Tacoma rotor (top) and the Tundra rotor (bottom).
Side view comparison.
Tundra rotor and stock dust cover. The dust cover is easily bent backwards. It is not nessessary to grind or cut any of the dust cover to fit the Tundra calipers.