I decided that boosting my 2rz for the power levels that I wanted wasnt going to do it very easily, or have the power I wanted down low so a swap was looking like a good route. There are lots of threads on here asking how hard to do this swap is or if there is a kit. This thread is to answer those questions and as a log file for myself. The obvious answer is yes, there is some fabrication involved, but exactly how much is fabrication and how much is bolt-on? Now on to the log.
1999 toyota tacoma
single cab 5-speed 2wd
2RZ with 133,000 miles
Pulled from Toyota Aristo 97-04(Japan)
Buying the motor
I knew that I wanted the turboed motor and the vvti and I wanted to see if I could retain a working OBDII interface for emmisions. Reading from other posts about the swap stated that I needed to get the front sump version of the motor which happens to come out of the Aristo in Japan or as we call it over here the GS300. I shopped for a while on ebay and import websites reading reviews and getting familiar with what parts I needed to make sure to have. I ended up buying my motor from jdmenginescorp of ebay as it lowered the shipping rates since they were a little closer to me. It was $2000 for the motor, trans, ECU, etc, and $250 for shipping to residential. The only thing that I needed to watch out for with the GTE VVTi motor was that it is MAF and MAP based and a lot of the swaps dont have the MAF sensor needed to run the engine properly on the stock ECU. Included in my swap was the motor, turbos, 4speed auto trans, ECU in stock ECU box, Ignitor chip, MAF sensor, alternator, power steering pump, AC compressor. The only thing that was not included in my swap was the power steering reservoir and I was aware of that from the pictures before buying the motor.
Today the motor came in and unboxing it was like christmas. I began cutting back all the wrapping and inspecting the motor. Everything visually looked OK so I moved on. Not knowing how many miles were on the motor I changed the oil. I managed to get the pallet far enough off the floor to get a drip pan under it and drain the oil. When they placed the motor on the pallet the drain plug was positioned perfectly between two planks on the pallet, CAKE. Next I moved on to the compression test to make sure there were no huge issues with the motor. Everything testes 150 +/-4 PSI which is great. The PSI number isnt the important thing especially since it was a Harbor Freight gauge but the key was that all the cylinders were close to each other. I had to take a crash course on how to hit the starter with no wiring hooked up by that was solved by jumper cables to the starter and alligator clips to the solenoid. I also installed new spark plugs. NGK was the way to go.
I will continue this later today. Hope you guys like it.