more qa1 questions...

stirpicult · 01-01-2013, 01:41 PM

i am in the middle of finishing my install. the streetaco/beefedtaco install part comes with 4 washers. do they go on top of the shock ears? this is where i see them in the pics from this thread:

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=130627

do i need any underneath the control arm? i know that brian included the instructions, but i have been sitting on this for months and months and have since lost them.

also, what are the various torque specs. upper ball joints are around 25 if i remember correctly, and the lower ball joints are like 85. can someone confirm?

what about the torque specs for the bolt that attaches the lower control arm to the frame?

for future searchers:
terms: coilover, qa1, install, conversion

stirpicult · 01-01-2013, 02:30 PM

to answer my own question....no need for a washer underneath, assuming it was drilled out to the proper size.

LilWhtTaco · 01-24-2013, 10:04 PM

Glad I could help! Lol. You can search around for fsm's for the torque specs. To be honest when we installed the lower control arms and the qa1's we just installed everything ''tight''. I've been working on my truck a bunch and didn't really worry about the torque. I'm not recommending that but it's what I did.

stirpicult · 01-27-2013, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LilWhtTaco

Glad I could help! Lol. You can search around for fsm's for the torque specs. To be honest when we installed the lower control arms and the qa1's we just installed everything ''tight''. I've been working on my truck a bunch and didn't really worry about the torque. I'm not recommending that but it's what I did.

Beefed Tacosent me a pm saying pretty much the same thing. Haha. Thanks for the reply though.

Also of note for anyone else, Beefed also said that when tightening up the bolt that attaches the LCA to the frame, load the suspension (jack up the LCA to compress the springs), then tighten the bolt down.

stirpicult · 02-09-2013, 04:02 PM

Does anyone know off hand what the center of the hub to the underside of the fender measurement is stock or with a 3" drop? I am measuring at 1'3.25 or so. My gap is still around 3" or so though.

Chris D. · 02-09-2013, 04:32 PM

I wouldn't go any lower than 3"

Just make it even on both sides.. I measured from the door sill to the ground till it was even..

stirpicult · 02-09-2013, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris D.

I wouldn't go any lower than 3"

Just make it even on both sides.. I measured from the door sill to the ground till it was even..

No...I don't want to go lower than 3" but I am not sure if I am there yet. The sides are even, but the gap between the fender and the tire looks to be a bit much. I am sitting on 195/75s on the stock 14s. What is a good fender/tire gap to have?

stirpicult · 02-18-2013, 06:09 PM

another question.....if I haven't lowered the rear yet, is it not worth my time to allign the front? When I get the back done will it throw off the allignment enough that I will have to do it again?

DanielTaco · 02-19-2013, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stirpicult

another question.....if I haven't lowered the rear yet, is it not worth my time to allign the front? When I get the back done will it throw off the allignment enough that I will have to do it again?

Yeah just wait on the alignment. When lowering the back your making the front end lighter and changing the angles of the wheels. Alignments should be done every time you make a change to the height of your car/truck. A lot of people don't understand that... You need to drop it where you want it then get an alignment. Not align then drop because then you will need to align it again. Hope this helps you out! Good luck!

stirpicult · 02-19-2013, 05:06 AM

that's what I figured, just wanted to double check. But it makes sense. Lower 3" more and you have changed the angle of the truck by at least a degree or 2, which would alter everything in the front.

Thanks!