Lower the tank. Use a vacuum to remove all the road debris from the top of the tank. Some use an air hose- That puts all that crap in the air you are breathing. You dont want the dirt and crap falling info the tank.
You will have two additional lines to disconect at the sender.Remove the 8mm head bolts attaching the sending unit to the tank.
*Use caution when removing the sending unit! It will not come out easy! you must turn it a bit and be gentle.
Once removed you *first compair the new OE pump to the old one. Same? yes?-good now to continue. You will need to reuse the retaining clip on the fuel pump sock. Replace the rubber pressure hose and clamps with *new ones. Swap the new pump in and carefully reinstall into the tank. Reverse directions to install from here. Have fun!
Now the new pump is in replace the fuel filter. It is a good idea to use PB/WD40 and a line wrench (14mm+19mm) to crack loose those stuck lines.
All done with that! Now lets check the scope pattern on the new fuel pump!
AAH! BETTER! Notice the smoth pattern, I understand the pattern is relative to the scale, to make it easy for now forget the rpm, amps etc. All electrical components create a current signal during operation this can be a useful tool. This pump would randomly fail due to the pump landing on the "dead spot". If you find yourself with a similiar situation you can have another person crank the motor while you give the gas tank some swift banging. The vibration of the banging can move the pump commutator to a sopt where the pump can fire back up. *Works sometimes. We need to compair the new pump readings to the old one. The new pump shows about same pressure as the old one, but with a *moment* of a return line pinch whe pressure spiked to 70psi. Normally you should see about 20% more than spec pressure with a dead head. (this test only relates to return style systems).
I wanted to share this food for thought when you are stuck looking at a problem, try to verify a falure with more than one test. Hope you found this interesting.