I finally swapped my engine. I've been out of job for two weeks so I've been able to work on the truck. (That's my daily and only car so I was stressed out like hell). So seven days of full time work to install and figure everything. I will update my build thread with pictures soon.
It started right up on the first cranking after the swap, no check engine code.
So far everything seems great, 5 psi steady boosting at around 12.5 afr. I didn't tried it for a long and sustained WOT because I still have 87 octane in the tank and I'm not running the intercooler yet so I will go very progressively on that. Drives so smooth it's amazing. Before I removed my old 2.7 engine, I took some compression test to know how good it would be to resell the whole swap... I have 0 compression on cylinder #2
and 60# on cylinder #1
... I didn't bother taking compression on 3 and 4. A quick inspection revealed something was wrong with one exhaust valve on #2
not sealing properly... I drove like that for like forever, that engine never ran right... Still it took me to the mountain every weekend.
Now, my afr at idle are somewhere between 13.8-14.3, it cruises at 14.7-14.2.
I had to refigure throttle plate position, thottle cable ajustement and dash pot position at first. First start was idling at 3000 rpm... a tad too high for my taste, but once everything previously mentioned ajusted, I'm now idling at 1250 rpm. I had a cheap ebay knockoff blow off valve ($5.99) that was leaking so I replaced it with an oem quality replacement and it solved my vacuum leak. Vacuum at idle is now like -21 in hg. So it should be good enough
I pinched everything else that could create a vacuum leak and eveything seems to be tight enough. If I pinch closed the IAC tube, I stall the truck right away. If I progressively pinch the IAC tube I can lower the idle speed to what I want. At first I even installed an ajustable collar clamp on the tube so I could use it like a idle speed control screw. Still it's not how it should work so I'm searching a bit. Also, when I choke the IAC tube, there is a increasing whisting sound trough the air filter so it really shuts the incoming air flow and it's LOUD.
How you guys is your idle speed, I'm wondering if it's not the whole turbo thing that may create the faster idle... But that IAC might be juste stuck open also. It seems there is no hot or cold idle speed for me anymore. Idles always at the same rpm hot or cold.
Also, a small trick for those with an engine that stalls after a boost burst, try to ajust the dash pot at the highest possible position without interfering with the rest screw of the throttle linkage. That creates a more progressive load realease and helps afr to stabilise. It puts less strain on the turbo impeller between shifts also, might be particularly interesting for those who doesn't run BOV. The pot clears away as soon vacuum is rebuilt in the manifold, so it equalises by itself, it really makes a difference. Might impact on the starting thouht because when the vaccum is realeased it might reopen the throttle a bit if the engine is not running and TPS might assume you have the foot a bit on the gas pedal. It could translate by the feeling of additional engine cranking turn to do.