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5VZ-FE Turbo Build Help Thread

47K views 199 replies 16 participants last post by  Arky 
#1 · (Edited)
I dont like making new threads for each question so starting this thread for questions.

First: Currently run Penzoil Ultra Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil. Should I go a bit heavier for the turbo?

Second: How should I run Turbo water cooling lines? Anyone have a "how to" for the 5VZ? Ive seen people tap off of the heater lines but not sure how to do this. T fittings?

Thrid: The CXRacing kit comes with a plat that mounts between the block and oil filter. However, Im planning on running an oil filter relocation kit and don't want to stack to two plates. Can I run a t-fitting from the oil relocation line to the turbo or will that not be enough pressure?

Forth: Exhaust. I dont want a 3" loud exhaust (3" turbo down exhaust pipe). Would it be so bad to run a 2.5" or keep the 2.25" stock exhaust?
 
#2 ·
The tee should work fine. You want the exhaust 3" all the way out. My 2.5" was too loud for my taste. Surprisingly a 2.5" vibrant resonator did the trick. Installed it between the down pipe and the muffler. Much quieter and very mellow sounding. Lol.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks. 3" it is I guess. Im looking to get a Cat and muffler from Dynomax unless you guys know of a better vendor.
The oil should be fine as long as it is true synthetic. I run 0w-30 AMSoil in my cars when I can afford it.

The water lines are generally tapped, they sell adapters for this online.

Yes, you can tee off the oil feed line, the drain line needs to go to the oil pan and be as big/stright shot as possible. The turbo does NOT want or need pressure, it only needs flow. If there is pressure in the turbo from the oil you will get smoking and an oil leak since the seals are not meant for that.

You want the largest possible exhaust you can fit on a turbo setup. Just install a big muffler and it should be plenty quite.
I dont need to increase weight? I was told to increase weight slightly when running a turbo :shrug:

Do you have a link to the water line adapters? I dont know the ID measurements on the water lines to the VB but I plan to tap those.

Found my muffler: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-17157

Probably this Cat: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-81919
 
#3 ·
The oil should be fine as long as it is true synthetic. I run 0w-30 AMSoil in my cars when I can afford it.

The water lines are generally tapped, they sell adapters for this online.

Yes, you can tee off the oil feed line, the drain line needs to go to the oil pan and be as big/stright shot as possible. The turbo does NOT want or need pressure, it only needs flow. If there is pressure in the turbo from the oil you will get smoking and an oil leak since the seals are not meant for that.

You want the largest possible exhaust you can fit on a turbo setup. Just install a big muffler and it should be plenty quite.
 
#8 ·
I always run thinner oil in my boosted vehicles.. Helps get oil into the turbo bearings faster on startup..
If your running a journal bearing turbo , then hook up the water lines.. Water in the center section when you turn the truck off will help cool the beatings and oil seals , it'll help avoid what they call "coke" in the bearings. Basically burnt up oil residue.. This was previously the point of a turbo timer, but with water cooled center sections and ball bearing turbos, there's almost no need for a turbo timer these days..
As previously stated, run a full 3" exhaust with a resonator.. I didn't even run a muffler. But resonator is a must. Make sure you get a straight through muffler though as the turbo creates its own back pressure for the motor.



 
#13 · (Edited)
Thought that was what mufflers are for.... why both? Seems a bit excessive :shrug:
Oh yeah, you don't want to go thinner on a turbo setup as a rule, you want to go thicker as the extra heat will be more strain on the oil and a thicker oil bandaids the issue.

The best thing is to get a high quality synthetic like AMSoil that holes up. 0w-30 should work great for more setups, not until you really start pushing things would I go thicker.

Also the 0w is simply the cold oil thickness, you want that as low as possible so that the oil starts flowing as fast as possible. The second number is the hot thickness and what really matters since you won't be boosting it cold anyways.
Im use Pennzoil Synthetic Ultra 5w-30 but they dont have a 0w-30. I was thinking to move to a 0w-40 weight (Mobile 1 Synthetic).
 
#12 ·
Oh yeah, you don't want to go thinner on a turbo setup as a rule, you want to go thicker as the extra heat will be more strain on the oil and a thicker oil bandaids the issue.

The best thing is to get a high quality synthetic like AMSoil that holes up. 0w-30 should work great for more setups, not until you really start pushing things would I go thicker.

Also the 0w is simply the cold oil thickness, you want that as low as possible so that the oil starts flowing as fast as possible. The second number is the hot thickness and what really matters since you won't be boosting it cold anyways.
 
#20 ·
I just checked out your thread, thanks! Im probably sticking with 3" and the straight through muffler I picked out. Not really interested with a resonator.

I can't, for the life of me, find a 5VZ turbo watercooler setup. You have your snail water cooled? I think I have it pretty much figured how Im going to do it, just need the TB cooling lines ID and turbo threading/size. Im planning on two T's to connect on either side of the TB cooling lines.
 
#18 ·
The resonator is very similar to a glass pack. 4cy exhaust can tend to sound pretty nasty. At least for an old guy like myself. I wanted to keep things flowing but not add a restriction. If you were to look thru a resonator it is a 2.5" dia. hole. I was skeptical but since I am already small at a 2.5" down pipe. It was about my only choice. I am extremely happy with it. It was money well spent it it did exactly what I needed.
 
#19 ·
The Dynomax bullet resonator is a little bigger than its ID size, with steel mesh "padding" on the inside. Basically, in terms of reducing dB's -- not much, only a little. You can get a muffler that's straight through, perforated stainless tube with packing, which will allow you to reduce dB's and retain performance. But beware, going 2.5" or above with these quickly increases the loudness of an exhaust. Putting more than one in series will still be a pleasant performance sound that isn't get-out loud.

Here's a 4 incher:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-12770/overview/

They come in smaller sizes.

Here's my S-Runner exhaust thread, I built another exhaust in my build thread:
http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163337

I need to make a new video for my truck so people can hear the exhaust. Maybe this upcoming weekend.
 
#23 ·
I would just go with a step or 2 colder plugs, nothing major to worry about really.

If you are running meth injection or E85 then it is really not all that important.

I personally start out with some el cheapo copper plugs when tuning a car then switch to nicer (in this case dual electrode plugs) once it is mostly tuned and the issues are worked out.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Awesome thanks! Im on page 40 and Im looking for a good view of how you hooked up and ran your water lines... Im open to suggestions as Im still undecided on how this is going to work out...

New thermostat: http://www.lceperformance.com/Thermostat-5VZ-180-Degree-p/1032075.htm - Nvr mind, this is 180F, the stock temp... Someone lied to me :(

So looking for the TRD 160F. I fond a 170F on Amazon and this 155F that Amazon "claims" to be compatible with my truck but I don't see it:



$10 for a 170F thermostat is looking mighty good considering the TRD is going for $60+ from what Im finding :shrug:
 
#32 · (Edited)
Will do :waytogo:
Don't get the low temp T-stat IMO. Too low of oil temps are just as bad or worse then too high.

The ideal oil temps should be around ~190-210f IIRC.

If the temps get too high with the stock t-stat then you have an issue in the cooling system someplace or you are simply overrunning it. Don't bandaid the issue with the t-stat.

Some water wetter is a good investment though and a higher pressure radiator cap can improve cooling as well if it is needed.
The 170 is only a 10 degree diff... Im looking into a new cap as well but heard water wetters can damage some turbo internal seals :shrug:
URD stocks a 170 that will fit your truck.

G
:waytogo: Did not know this!

You can order the AMSOIL from my site if you want:

http://www.gadgetonline.com/AMSOIL.htm

Best deal going is to sign up as a preferred customer. Only cost $10 and you will save way more than that on your first order. That will allow you to purchase it for the same price the dealers buy it for.

G
Ill look into. Just not 100% sold on Amsoil. Def would love to run it, just hard to justify prices and paying to be a member. Im kind of a cheap ass which doesn't bode well for this turbo build :eek:
 
#29 ·
Don't get the low temp T-stat IMO. Too low of oil temps are just as bad or worse then too high.

The ideal oil temps should be around ~190-210f IIRC.

If the temps get too high with the stock t-stat then you have an issue in the cooling system someplace or you are simply overrunning it. Don't bandaid the issue with the t-stat.

Some water wetter is a good investment though and a higher pressure radiator cap can improve cooling as well if it is needed.
 
#36 · (Edited by Moderator)
So I was going through the kit and contrary to what the install instructions say, the oil feed appears to be from the oil pressure sensor. This is good news (now I can use the JEGS oil filter relocation kit) but bad news in that Im not sure how to install the manifold. I don't like guessing.

Also found out that they DO provide water feed pipes for the turbo so that pretty easy to figure out too. Just need some tubes and t-fittings.

Here are the pics if you haven't seen my build yet:

Im guessing this is the oil feed manifold for the oil pressure sensor:

All fitting are hand tight but no fitting for one of the holes (I guessing thats for the sensor) and the fitting marked with the arrow is pass through so Im guessing that threads into the block for the oil to flow...



Here is the oil feed line and turbo attachments (I think they provide two in case you want to attach the oil feed on the side fitting but Im not sure. Not really sure what it could be for other than that :shrug:):



Pin hole (I was really worried the would screw this up but looks like they know what they are doing)


They include what I can only guess as a second fitting, probably in case you want to feed the oil through the side fitting...???

Large hole:


Small hole:
 

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#38 ·
The oil feed could be coming from the spare oil ports that are next to the oil filter. There are some plugs in them from the factory but I pulled them out and installed my oil pressure and temp sensors there. Works great.

The pin hole on the oil feed is good, like I said before the turbo doesn't need pressure, just a coating of oil on the bearings. Those restictors are there for the same reason. If the turbo smokes you generally want to install a smaller restrictor.
 
#39 ·
The oil feed could be coming from the spare oil ports that are next to the oil filter. There are some plugs in them from the factory but I pulled them out and installed my oil pressure and temp sensors there. Works great.

The pin hole on the oil feed is good, like I said before the turbo doesn't need pressure, just a coating of oil on the bearings. Those restictors are there for the same reason. If the turbo smokes you generally want to install a smaller restrictor.
Ill have to wait for CXRacing to come back with an answer on the oil feed... Like I said, I dont like guessing :silly:

Yeah I was pretty stocked to see the pin hole. As I was going through the parts, I remembered reading about this and was like "please, don't let them screw this up" :D
 
#40 ·
So I got the truck back and started looking at the ground issue. I disconnected the E-5 EMC terminal and turn the truck to IGN on (engine off) and measured voltage over three pins: E-5 16 (where Im currently hooked up to) E-5 7 and E-5 2. Oddly enough, only E-5 2 read any voltage. I dont know about the E-5 7 but E-5 16 should def be reading 12V... :shrug:

Im going to move the 12V source from the E-5 16 pin to E-5 2 pin and see how that works.

The issue with the E-5 16 pin is it power all the engine sensors as well. On the Scion's the FIC had an issue when connected to a similar power source that cause some sensors to stay energized with the IGN off so I hoping this will fix the issue.
 
#41 ·
Ok, here is the oil manifold CxRacing provides. They never installed this on the 5VZ and dont have instructions and can't guarantee it will fit:



1: Anyone know what the fitting size is on the block? Its 1/8" NPT on the second gen.

2: The fitting with the two female threads is a pass through so Im guessing it mounts to the block?

3: The side with no fitting is, Im guessing, for the oil pressure sensor.

If the threads are not correct, Ill need some unique adapters. Anyone know where to find such a thing?
 
#42 ·
I would do like I said earlier and just pull out one of the plugs on the block and use that so you don't have to mess with the manifold there.

I pulled out 2 plugs and use 1 for pressure and the other for temp, works great. Both sensors are 1/8 NPT fittings and screwed right in, just use some teflon tape to help it seal.

Ditch the manifold and put the feed line directly into the oil port, less chance for leaks.
 
#46 ·


I ended up welding a an fitting to the plug I took out of the engine. Not sure what size of thread is in the block that's why I made a adapter.




At first I had my turbo feed line coming off this sandwich plate adapter, but with the rear mount system it was a problem. If the turbo was mounted up high and gravity drained to the pan this would work.

My stock skid plate covers and protects the filter nicely.
 
#48 ·
I run the turbo feed for both turbos on my Z33 right off the pressure sending unit with a "T" fitting. works great with no real issues. I think some need something to lower pressure so not to blow seals our. I was worried about that but it was drain line that gave me grief. that can be tricky.
 
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