I dont like making new threads for each question so starting this thread for questions.
First: Currently run Penzoil Ultra Synthetic 5W-30 engine oil. Should I go a bit heavier for the turbo?
Second: How should I run Turbo water cooling lines? Anyone have a "how to" for the 5VZ? Ive seen people tap off of the heater lines but not sure how to do this. T fittings?
Thrid: The CXRacing kit comes with a plat that mounts between the block and oil filter. However, Im planning on running an oil filter relocation kit and don't want to stack to two plates. Can I run a t-fitting from the oil relocation line to the turbo or will that not be enough pressure?
Forth: Exhaust. I dont want a 3" loud exhaust (3" turbo down exhaust pipe). Would it be so bad to run a 2.5" or keep the 2.25" stock exhaust?
The tee should work fine. You want the exhaust 3" all the way out. My 2.5" was too loud for my taste. Surprisingly a 2.5" vibrant resonator did the trick. Installed it between the down pipe and the muffler. Much quieter and very mellow sounding. Lol.
The oil should be fine as long as it is true synthetic. I run 0w-30 AMSoil in my cars when I can afford it.
The water lines are generally tapped, they sell adapters for this online.
Yes, you can tee off the oil feed line, the drain line needs to go to the oil pan and be as big/stright shot as possible. The turbo does NOT want or need pressure, it only needs flow. If there is pressure in the turbo from the oil you will get smoking and an oil leak since the seals are not meant for that.
You want the largest possible exhaust you can fit on a turbo setup. Just install a big muffler and it should be plenty quite.
The oil should be fine as long as it is true synthetic. I run 0w-30 AMSoil in my cars when I can afford it.
The water lines are generally tapped, they sell adapters for this online.
Yes, you can tee off the oil feed line, the drain line needs to go to the oil pan and be as big/stright shot as possible. The turbo does NOT want or need pressure, it only needs flow. If there is pressure in the turbo from the oil you will get smoking and an oil leak since the seals are not meant for that.
You want the largest possible exhaust you can fit on a turbo setup. Just install a big muffler and it should be plenty quite.
These guys make high quality parts. http://www.vibrantperformance.ca/
I plan on adding a resonator to my exhaust set up... i bought the biggest magnablow i could, but it's still loud. they are all 304 stainless steel, where magnablow is 409 (it rusts/tarnishes)
I always run thinner oil in my boosted vehicles.. Helps get oil into the turbo bearings faster on startup..
If your running a journal bearing turbo , then hook up the water lines.. Water in the center section when you turn the truck off will help cool the beatings and oil seals , it'll help avoid what they call "coke" in the bearings. Basically burnt up oil residue.. This was previously the point of a turbo timer, but with water cooled center sections and ball bearing turbos, there's almost no need for a turbo timer these days..
As previously stated, run a full 3" exhaust with a resonator.. I didn't even run a muffler. But resonator is a must. Make sure you get a straight through muffler though as the turbo creates its own back pressure for the motor.
Oh yeah, you don't want to go thinner on a turbo setup as a rule, you want to go thicker as the extra heat will be more strain on the oil and a thicker oil bandaids the issue.
The best thing is to get a high quality synthetic like AMSoil that holes up. 0w-30 should work great for more setups, not until you really start pushing things would I go thicker.
Also the 0w is simply the cold oil thickness, you want that as low as possible so that the oil starts flowing as fast as possible. The second number is the hot thickness and what really matters since you won't be boosting it cold anyways.
Oh yeah, you don't want to go thinner on a turbo setup as a rule, you want to go thicker as the extra heat will be more strain on the oil and a thicker oil bandaids the issue.
The best thing is to get a high quality synthetic like AMSoil that holes up. 0w-30 should work great for more setups, not until you really start pushing things would I go thicker.
Also the 0w is simply the cold oil thickness, you want that as low as possible so that the oil starts flowing as fast as possible. The second number is the hot thickness and what really matters since you won't be boosting it cold anyways.
Did you see the exhaust I made? It's 3.5" from header collector/front cat pipe back.
I'm gonna change it though, something quieter and cooler functioning. Probably a dual exhaust: 4 inch dump, then 2 inch out for each way with a cut-out at the Y for higher boost "runs."
I just checked out your thread, thanks! Im probably sticking with 3" and the straight through muffler I picked out. Not really interested with a resonator.
I can't, for the life of me, find a 5VZ turbo watercooler setup. You have your snail water cooled? I think I have it pretty much figured how Im going to do it, just need the TB cooling lines ID and turbo threading/size. Im planning on two T's to connect on either side of the TB cooling lines.
The resonator is very similar to a glass pack. 4cy exhaust can tend to sound pretty nasty. At least for an old guy like myself. I wanted to keep things flowing but not add a restriction. If you were to look thru a resonator it is a 2.5" dia. hole. I was skeptical but since I am already small at a 2.5" down pipe. It was about my only choice. I am extremely happy with it. It was money well spent it it did exactly what I needed.
The Dynomax bullet resonator is a little bigger than its ID size, with steel mesh "padding" on the inside. Basically, in terms of reducing dB's -- not much, only a little. You can get a muffler that's straight through, perforated stainless tube with packing, which will allow you to reduce dB's and retain performance. But beware, going 2.5" or above with these quickly increases the loudness of an exhaust. Putting more than one in series will still be a pleasant performance sound that isn't get-out loud.
I would just go with a step or 2 colder plugs, nothing major to worry about really.
If you are running meth injection or E85 then it is really not all that important.
I personally start out with some el cheapo copper plugs when tuning a car then switch to nicer (in this case dual electrode plugs) once it is mostly tuned and the issues are worked out.
I have some Denso dual ground platinum plugs that only have ~20k miles. I dont know how to tell if the plug is "colder." I hear this a lot and just not sure :shrug:
Only way to know if it is colder is to look up the model number. Then compare it to the stock plug number in that brand and then look up the heat range chart for the brand.
Awesome thanks! Im on page 40 and Im looking for a good view of how you hooked up and ran your water lines... Im open to suggestions as Im still undecided on how this is going to work out...
Don't get the low temp T-stat IMO. Too low of oil temps are just as bad or worse then too high.
The ideal oil temps should be around ~190-210f IIRC.
If the temps get too high with the stock t-stat then you have an issue in the cooling system someplace or you are simply overrunning it. Don't bandaid the issue with the t-stat.
Some water wetter is a good investment though and a higher pressure radiator cap can improve cooling as well if it is needed.
Best deal going is to sign up as a preferred customer. Only cost $10 and you will save way more than that on your first order. That will allow you to purchase it for the same price the dealers buy it for.
Ill look into. Just not 100% sold on Amsoil. Def would love to run it, just hard to justify prices and paying to be a member. Im kind of a cheap ass which doesn't bode well for this turbo build
Don't get the low temp T-stat IMO. Too low of oil temps are just as bad or worse then too high.
The ideal oil temps should be around ~190-210f IIRC.
If the temps get too high with the stock t-stat then you have an issue in the cooling system someplace or you are simply overrunning it. Don't bandaid the issue with the t-stat.
Some water wetter is a good investment though and a higher pressure radiator cap can improve cooling as well if it is needed.
So I was going through the kit and contrary to what the install instructions say, the oil feed appears to be from the oil pressure sensor. This is good news (now I can use the JEGS oil filter relocation kit) but bad news in that Im not sure how to install the manifold. I don't like guessing.
Also found out that they DO provide water feed pipes for the turbo so that pretty easy to figure out too. Just need some tubes and t-fittings.
Here are the pics if you haven't seen my build yet:
Im guessing this is the oil feed manifold for the oil pressure sensor:
All fitting are hand tight but no fitting for one of the holes (I guessing thats for the sensor) and the fitting marked with the arrow is pass through so Im guessing that threads into the block for the oil to flow...
Here is the oil feed line and turbo attachments (I think they provide two in case you want to attach the oil feed on the side fitting but Im not sure. Not really sure what it could be for other than that :shrug:
Pin hole (I was really worried the would screw this up but looks like they know what they are doing)
They include what I can only guess as a second fitting, probably in case you want to feed the oil through the side fitting...???
The oil feed could be coming from the spare oil ports that are next to the oil filter. There are some plugs in them from the factory but I pulled them out and installed my oil pressure and temp sensors there. Works great.
The pin hole on the oil feed is good, like I said before the turbo doesn't need pressure, just a coating of oil on the bearings. Those restictors are there for the same reason. If the turbo smokes you generally want to install a smaller restrictor.
The oil feed could be coming from the spare oil ports that are next to the oil filter. There are some plugs in them from the factory but I pulled them out and installed my oil pressure and temp sensors there. Works great.
The pin hole on the oil feed is good, like I said before the turbo doesn't need pressure, just a coating of oil on the bearings. Those restictors are there for the same reason. If the turbo smokes you generally want to install a smaller restrictor.
Ill have to wait for CXRacing to come back with an answer on the oil feed... Like I said, I dont like guessing :silly:
Yeah I was pretty stocked to see the pin hole. As I was going through the parts, I remembered reading about this and was like "please, don't let them screw this up"
So I got the truck back and started looking at the ground issue. I disconnected the E-5 EMC terminal and turn the truck to IGN on (engine off) and measured voltage over three pins: E-5 16 (where Im currently hooked up to) E-5 7 and E-5 2. Oddly enough, only E-5 2 read any voltage. I dont know about the E-5 7 but E-5 16 should def be reading 12V... :shrug:
Im going to move the 12V source from the E-5 16 pin to E-5 2 pin and see how that works.
The issue with the E-5 16 pin is it power all the engine sensors as well. On the Scion's the FIC had an issue when connected to a similar power source that cause some sensors to stay energized with the IGN off so I hoping this will fix the issue.
I would do like I said earlier and just pull out one of the plugs on the block and use that so you don't have to mess with the manifold there.
I pulled out 2 plugs and use 1 for pressure and the other for temp, works great. Both sensors are 1/8 NPT fittings and screwed right in, just use some teflon tape to help it seal.
Ditch the manifold and put the feed line directly into the oil port, less chance for leaks.
I ended up welding a an fitting to the plug I took out of the engine. Not sure what size of thread is in the block that's why I made a adapter.
At first I had my turbo feed line coming off this sandwich plate adapter, but with the rear mount system it was a problem. If the turbo was mounted up high and gravity drained to the pan this would work.
My stock skid plate covers and protects the filter nicely.
I run the turbo feed for both turbos on my Z33 right off the pressure sending unit with a "T" fitting. works great with no real issues. I think some need something to lower pressure so not to blow seals our. I was worried about that but it was drain line that gave me grief. that can be tricky.
Thanks again man. Would love to see some Nissan twin turbo pron in here if you don't mind :headbang:
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