Toyota Tacoma Forum banner

97 t-100 3rz replacement and Balance Shaft Removal

6K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  Slick Nick 
#1 ·
After thinking about it, I really dont want to step down to a 2rz. I need all the extra low end torque I can get sometimes, I move around a pretty big trailer that is right at the towing limit, and it's pretty bad down low as is.

I see LCE has the kit to delete the balance shafts.... I may have found a donor 3rz somewhat locally (2 1/2 hr drive) It's out of a 97 T-100... This should be fully compatible with my current 3rz I'm ASSuming.... I plan to swap my 01 head, studs, MLS gasket, cams, etc. To the new motor. Do some freshening up on the new motor, all new seals, gaskets, new rod and main bearings, and a thorough cleaning.... Swap my flywheel and clutch to it. Swap my sensors to it. I would like to remove the balance shafts while I'm in there. LCE has the kit for 99 bucks, has anyone here done this with real world results.

I'd like to delete because I dont care about the vibration, would like extra power. I noticed the flywheel and pulley upgrades, I can't imagine the removed shafts, I hear they're heavy. Also it's parasitic drag, so it can only help driveability and power.

Does anyone make a windage tray and upgraded rod bolts for this motor... What about bottom end studs, or other strength upgrades.... I'd like to stay with the stock pistons and rods for now. I plan to run around 16 psi daily. I'm not messing with anything higher than that for now.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Also, has anyone ever knife edged the 3rz crank before ? Heck, even the 2rz for that fact.... I have a decent local machine shop that could rebalance it. Has anyone knife edged it for weight savings and reduced resistance in the crankcase ? Would like to squeeze all the power and mpg out of it as possible. As odd as that sounds lol... I drive it 40 miles each way to work, than race it on the weekends. Be easy on me guys.... I build domestics, this is my first "import" project and has been a real learning curve. This truck was supposed to be something I wouldn't "mess with"
 
#4 ·
I was checking around a little while ago and I couldnt find anyone to knife edge the crank. A couple of machine shops said they wouldnt do it, that I should just get a crank scraper.
 
#5 ·
I think that the combo of deleting the balance shafts, and knife edging the crank would be too much. You need vibration dampening somewhere. If not the shafts, then at least the weight of the crank. The RZ cranks are perfectly balanced from toyota. I wouldn't want to chance the knife edging. That bit of power can be made elsewhere.

Luis sells ARP main studs. Don't know about rod bolts. I bought the Main studs, head studs, flywheel bolts, Pauter rods, and Arias pistons.


On my setup, I decided to leave the balance shafts in place, and just not turn them. I just looked at LCE's kit, and noticed that it comes with new bearings. I assume that you install them so that the oil holes don't line up, to block oil flow. The only other thing this kit comes with is the t-chain squirter extension. On mine, I just left the squirter where it is, its not hurting anything. It's just a squirter for the balance shaft chain. The timing chain is already lubed in 2 places by the balance chain tensioner. If you want to spend $100 to shave off 20 pounds of static weight, then go ahead, but you can just leave them there and not turn them, its easier and cheaper.

My 3RZ has yet to burn fuel yet, so take all this as my opinion, not fact. Personally, Id love to see someone knife edge a 3rz crank, and see how it does, but, i think by doing that and deleting the shafts, you may run into some detrimental harmonic vibration. May be fine at the track, but not with daily driving.
 
#8 ·
Anthony, why do you want to stick with the stock rods and pistons? Sounds like a recipe for a repeat of what you just went through. If you're going to go through the process of swapping the stuff out, replace the rods and pistons while you're in there. I guarantee it will live longer than the stock internals. I already gave you the link in another thread, but ill give it to you again. This would be a bitchin' deal for you. forged pistons and H-beams with ARP rod bolts already installed. http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=317E68E7-269E-4879-9B97-15C702BEFE2C
 
#13 ·
I just cant financially right now. I dont have to tell anyone here, things are getting tighter. My mortgage is WAY more important than this truck, it's my non-daily, daily driver. I drive it daily when it's running, but have another vehicle when it's not. The plan is to freshen up a used motor, and leave boost back down where it was living happily before for now. I have other priorities. I run a business, I'm working a job I could lose any day, mortgage and other things have taken priority.. Only did a couple upgrades recently because I already had the parts sitting in boxes.. I would like to drive this truck now and build it later.
 
#9 ·
Seems kinda crazy to rebuild your motor to the same specs when you killed the first one already, you know you want to up the boost.

You will regret building your motor with stock internals since it will limit your boost , you saw what happened last time...;)

Your already tearing it down, slap some new stuff in there and boost that sucker to 20psi and get cheek pump from smiling all day..:D
 
#12 ·
Good luck on that rebuild...

Was suprised to hear '97 T-100's had an option for 3RZ !!! ??? :shrug:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top